Pearson 365 and 367

Age and health dictate that we sell Talaria, our sloop #284. She has lots of equipment and upgrades, many documented on this site. Included is a RIB and outboard in great condition on davits. She is listed with RCR Yachts and can be seen on Yachtworld as Pearson 365 in Ashtabula, Ohio. Always in fresh water, covered in winter. Needs new owners who want to go cruising in comfort.
Contact me directly if you wish. cozzmann@yahoo.com.   440-969-4750   Jim Cozy

We have always had success heating the intake air. A hair dryer or better yet a heat gun aimed at the intake (careful with the heat gun). If no 110 AC, a propane torch, but very carefully, it is an open flame.  Jim

I have been building and repairing boats (teak) for 30+ years and here is what I have learned. First, have good mating surfaces. I would never use tongue and groove because there are too many gaps within the joint. I have never had an edge to edge joint fail. The other important point is to have new wood exposed for gluing. When teak sits for a few days the natural oils within the wood rise to the surface and inhibit glueing adhesion. My go-to glue is thickened West epoxy, but I have often used Tite Bond (regular woodworkers yellow waterproof) for things like tables where the joint is non-structural. For finishing, it is important to scrape the glue-line and then plane or sand the surface before finishing so the glue is gone from the surface, and again to expose fresh wood to the finish. I know it is a matter of personal preference, but are you sure you want to stain the teak? I much prefer the natural variations of grain to show, especially when I have paid 20-30 dollars per board foot for the wood. Good luck, and enjoy the woodworking.  Jim

Bev & Billy-- I mounted my fluxgate inside the locker forward of the nav table, in the upper inboard aft corner. It has always worked perfectly. There are no electronics in the vicinity. Hope this helps.  Jim

When we bought Talaria 8 yrs. ago, all tanks had 2 access plates per tank, as pictured above. They have always worked perfectly, never leaked. I periodically lube the o-rings with silicon grease.  Jim

Due to upgrades, I have the following for sale:

One 28" SS wheel, 1" straight bore, leather covered, excellent condition. $300

One Lewmar 30 two-speed standard winch with "wincher" rubber self-tailer, chrome/bronze, some wear on chrome. $300

Both always in fresh water.  Jim at 440-969-4750 or cozzmann@yahoo.com      Offers welcome.

In a thread called "companionway doors" in April, 2011 I posted my remodel of the electrical panel with pics. May be helpful to you.

Jim

Amen to all of  the above. Been doing this stuff for 45 years, know a lot, (but still not much),  but the local EXPERTS usually have 5 years experience with one boat. I mostly keep my mouth shut and watch. But when asked I usually offer advice and often then encounter an argument. I'll probably never learn. Still, it is hard to watch fools set their hair on fire time after time. Jim

I put a shelf in the starboard locker against the aft bulkhead for my Heart charger/inverter, another high on the outboard side of the hull for a battery, and one on the outboard side of the port locker for the refrigerator compressor. Those attached to the hull are epoxied to hull with substantial knees underneath. I have had no failures. I use thickened epoxy and sand the hull surface well first, glue in place, then make a fillet all around. I generally follow West guidelines. They all are no more than 12 inches wide and do not inhibit my 6' 3" 190# self from getting folded in to do maintenance. Good luck. Jim

Risto,

Talaria, our current 365 sloop has mid boom sheeting, as did our previous three cruising boats. It has never been a problem and to me the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. With a traveler you get a wider range of control, and the cockpit remains clear. When racing, the main sheet trimmer stays forward out of the way. The sheet to boom attachment is usually to two or three bails spaced out over three or four feet, spreading the load on the boom, so no great fear of spar failure. We have beat into thirty knots true in steep seas with no difficulty with the sheet location. It DOES require a dedicated winch in heavy going. My point here is that an off the shelf traveler setup and dodger is less complicated an I assume much less expensive than the rig you are suggesting. However, your idea with the stainless tube arch for an elevated traveler is standard on many of the newer Hunters and you can probably gain much info through that company. Good luck.

Jim

Yes, I did use hose clamps. But I also use a vacuum method for oil change and I wanted to assure airtight joints. Good luck.  Jim

I made the same modification 4-5 years ago, posted it last April. Has worked flawlessly. Jim

Dale,

Caveat, this is 25 year old info but may provide some insight. We installed an Autohelm 6000 in our 33000 # steel cutter and travelled about 5000 miles with it steering most of the way. Nary a hiccup!!! I am not sure how that translates to today's market but it was an electrically operated ram on a rudder arm. The rudder was unbalanced. It never lacked for power or responsiveness. Hope this is of some use.

Jim

 Pete- Two more cents worth....We used a Gull as a kicker on a Venture 21 in the early 80's. We had to rebuild it when we got it. Dirt simple. It usually started and pushed a displacement hull well, but could be temperamental. It was noisy and dirty, but cheap. Our joke was that it could be repaired with a paper clip and a wad of gum. I have fond memories of it, but that may be because memories improve over time. However, I have to side with Dale on the general British iron issue. I reached my limit with Lucas electrics and totally weird fastener approach. But God bless all you guys who keep these relics alive for the rest of us to appreciate. (From afar.)  Jim

We have sailed with one Force 10 and three Sewards. They all performed very well. The Force 10 had a thermometer for oven temp, no thermostat, so required careful attention. The Sewards all had thermostats. Force 10 seemed a little more robust but quite a bit more expensive. It also had thermocouples on all burners and Sewards did not. Personally if I were buying today I would probably go with price and availability. However, I have not researched the market in nearly 20 years.

Jim