Pearson 365 and 367

Quote from: Dale Tanski on September 15, 2024, 04:35:40 PMIf you would like a quote on new set ups just let me know, I would be more than glad to sell them to you.

Hi Dale, thank you for the offer. I send you a message!

Thank you both! Sadly, we can't find our original blocks so we need new / replacement ones. Getting our rigging replaced has been an adventure (long story).

Hello,

We are replacing our standing rigging. We need to order new blocks for the backstays.

Any recommendations? Model? Type? I'm wondering if there is advice for working load to consider.

Thanks!

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/D43Rpty4Cf4dpukq5  (photos are not of our boat - another Pearson 365 from the marina as reference)

Thank you, P69, for sharing. That's a big job but looks like it's worth it for no more leaks.

Hi,

I saw this discussion already but given its age and a slightly different question, am posting a new thread.

1. Finishing the edge:

We decided to remove our teak rail given its poor condition and the cost of fixing it.

We don't think we need to glass the deck-to-hull joint because it seems strong enough but we do want to make the edge look finished. I see a lot of threads about glassing the edge (including the prior discussion). However, an expert in the marina is recommending we just epoxy and fair it - no need to glass.

Has anyone done just the epoxy/fairing finish, rather than glassing the edge? Curious if it worked well or any concerns?

2. bump rail?
Additionally, the teak rail served as a bump rail. Do we need one? Any recommendations about bump rail replacements?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

What about CDI? Any experience or thoughts on those?

Hi, jumping on this thread a little late. Curious to hear thoughts on the Furlex? This was a recommendation from our marina.

Taking notes of what we did below, for reference:

We looked into getting this welded but it was not an option for this issue. It was fixed by using a metal epoxy. We sanded down the spreaders and got them repainted.

When reinstalling the spreader, the "fixed" bit broke. The fit is still good. We decided to live with it, knowing there is less play on it as before and the damage won't impact the function of the spreader (or so we were told?).

Will update if we learn anything new after getting the mast back on the boat and the boat on the water.

Quote from: Skookster on July 23, 2023, 12:13:19 PMMy own boat Skookum's original halyards were combo wire and rope, but I went with straight rope when replacing them.

Skookster, what rope did you replace your halyards with?

I imagine you may have had to replace the sheaves to allow for the right size rope vs wire-to-rope, too?

We're in the process of switching from wire-to-rope to all rope halyards as well. We did a little research on specs of rope for halyard use. Most sources say a minimum of 10mm Halyard is required for the Main, 8mm if Dyneema. 12mm for genoa (10mm if dyneema.) Is this right? This diameter could cause issues with upgrade to only rope halyard lines. The sheaves in the masthead are sized and shaped to wire-to-rope and essentially it's all too narrow to fit rope, and it's almost too narrow for the dyneema, too. Did I do this research correctly? Did you run into this compatibility issue as well? Curious to know how you navigated it.

Thanks in advance!

Hey all,

We have a 1981 365 Ketch that we purchased 2 years ago. Currently we have the mast removed and during some of the electrical work I noticed that the bonding conductor was only 8AWG. In order to bring the boat up to code I noticed that there are a few requirements. I am referencing TE-04 in the ABYC standards.

• Main conductor must be 4AWG - mast can be used as the main conductor to the "lightning grounding terminal".
• Secondary conductors must be 6AWG. Surge arrestors can be used. Various requirements on bending radius and conductor location and bonding exist here as well

I have a few questions:

• The standard requires that there is a 1 ft^2 3/16 thick terminal that contacts the water at all times. In regards to the construction of the the Pearson 365 ketch, is there such a thing already? I reviewed our manual and it has this image. https://photos.app.goo.gl/PNrgavWMSF62qsEU7. It does not specify a "terminal." Is the ballast used as this "terminal"?
• The exisiting bonding cables I have are a mess and I plan to run them all above the water line using 6AWG utilizing heat shrink crimp ring terminals rather than compression lugs. The standard did not discuss connection methodology other than resistance requirements which is fine. Do you all use compression lugs or crimp ring terminal with appropriate dielectric grease? 
• In general have most of you used air terminals vs static dissipators? I know for utility lightning protection that is stationary, both are employed. Considering the movement of the boat and the assumption that the boat is properly grounded, the air terminal seems the better solution to me. 
• It seems that aside from the small ground bus bar in the aft, the main connections are at the ballast near the mast. Are there any other ground bus bars? Does anyone have pictures of lightning protection upgrades they have done in the past that I could reference? I did see Petes 2015 post about the little fuse surge arrestor 3 terminal conenctions which has been helpful.

Thanks in advance.

Jay and Steph SV Venture

Hello,

Our rigging inspector recommended replacing our spreaders. The spreaders have wallowed at the spreader mount bar, likely from poor rig tune over time. This has caused failure in the port spreader and near failure on the starboard spreader. A crude repair had been attempted (by previous owner) on the port side using a band clamp. When I asked about getting replacements at the boatyard, the owner said maybe just a shim of sorts will suffice to reduce the play.

Attaching pictures of the port spreader (main mast) which shows the failure.

Is this repairable, or are we really looking at getting replacements?
 
Any advice is welcome. Thanks in advance-

jankowskiben, did you ever get an answer to your question regarding fore/aft spreader play?

Thank you, both! Appreciate the input.

Update: After a little cleaning and inspecting, found out the wood in one of the chainplate knees was very badly rotten, so had the boatyard do a repair for us. 

We cleaned the chainplates and got a stainless steel guy double-check they are still good (they are), and we'll be re-bedding them soon.

Hello all,

We are still new to the world of boat repairs and we could use some help. We currently have dropped our masts and are in the midst of cleaning and repairing the chain plates and holes. Ive attached some pictures.

1. Does the Fiberglass underneath the chainplates need to be repaired? If so, what is the recommended approach?
2. In regards to the top of the holes, should we sand down and apply filler?


Any other comments or suggestions? appreciate the help.

Thanks!

You saved me a bunch of effort! Do you happen to know the shaft diameter off the top of your head as well?

Would appreciate it.