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Messages - Ruvel

#1
Hi Dale,

I upgraded my primary and main sheet winches this past spring. I bought them from West Marine during their Lewmar bogo sale. For the primary I bought the Ocean #48 Self-tailing winch. They fit perfect in the same location as the originals and offer plenty of power to crank in the jib. I'm quite happy with them. I also replaced my main sheet winch with an Ocean #30 and am happy with that one as well.
#2
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: W40 Engine rebuild
August 13, 2023, 09:03:51 AM
This is my final set up.

I'm using a Home Depot,
LFA-827 Bushing,
LFA-739 Street Elbow,
and the MPI Easy Drain Oil Kit, part #307-0380 (Any of their 0380 kits will do as the oil pan fitting isn't being used, this one was the cheapest.)

#3
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: W40 Engine rebuild
August 09, 2023, 10:53:38 AM
I happen to be working on the same thing. It's a little easier for me because I have my engine out and taken apart. I just got it figured out, I believe. You can use a 1/2" pipe thread reducer and attach the hose right to it.

I'll be using the hose only from this kit

MPI Oil Drain Kit - 3/4" X 16 Thread Size https://a.co/d/4AQo5i0
#4
Thank you for the good info. I was hoping all our boats came with basically the same fixture for the anchor light, but I guess not, so I'll see once I ascend to the top.

It was wishful thinking on my part to have everything done in one trip, but nah, I have a bit of work to do up there besides the anchor light. I need to adjust the Windex vanes, secure the VHF antenna, replace the gwind instrument and run the new cable for it.
#5
Yep. We're like family Scott.
#6
Hi,

I'm trying to figure out what's this vent in the cockpit leading to the bilge for. The hose leads to nothing in the bilge. Was it attached to something in the past? The rubber has broken down and become sticky, so either I replace the hose or remove it altogether.
#7
Hi Everyone,

Could someone tell me what is the replacement light bulb for the masthead anchor light, assuming it's the original fixture up there.
#8
Hi Bob,

Do you still have the Paragon? I'm looking at rebuilding mine and it would be a great help to have a spare to work with.

Ruvel
Quote from: Already There on September 13, 2022, 04:08:29 PMJust refitted a Borg Warner 71c into my 365. Bought the whole kit from Transatlantic Diesels. Perfect fit and really nice set up. I have a working Paragon SAOD that I swapped out. Good for most parts. Willing to give to anyone that needs parts.
Bob
#9
I finally got my foredeck all repaired and the anchor platform done and all put together. It took some time but it all seems to be good.

I used 3/4" marine plywood encapsulated in a lot of fiberglass cloth for the platform construction.
#10
Glad to hear you guys are making headway. Seems like your propeller shaft is straight and hopefully you'll also get that strut straight. If you haven't found a flat surface to roll the shaft on, you can easily check the trueness of it by cutting 2 v-blocks from wood, place one on either end and turn the shaft while holding a sort of gauge in the middle of it, a dial caliper would be the correct tool but no need. Keep us posted.
#11
The propeller shaft does look like it is bent from the picture. Hopefully it's just flexed. I'd like to say that you would just bend that strut back to where it should be and voilĂ , all good to go, but unfortunately I think that's wishful thinking. The whole thing has to align correctly or you'll get vibration and possible damage. Maybe others here can chime in with some other ideas. I myself would start by removing the shaft. It wasn't easy when I did mine. The propeller was frozen on there. I removed the cotter pin and the 2 nuts, used a 3 prong puller and a blow torch to heat it up, and it still took some time before it popped off. Now to get the shaft out, that was another heartache. The shaft is pressed fit into the coupling that attaches to the V-drive so i first removed that from the V-drive using a 1/2" socket that I ground down to create clearance, a open end would have stripped the heads for sure. Then I went on and used a puller to get the coupling off the shaft. Oh, and you should also replace the cutlass bearing in the strut.

I will get back with good pictures and angle measurements but in the meanwhile this picture will give you an idea.
#12
Hi Daan and Caspian,

There's a post here on the propeller shaft strut that could be helpful to you.
Here's the link. https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=a327ac48876a8159d128634b8c44fbd1&topic=1664.msg8777#msg8777

I can take pictures and measurements of mine but I won't be able for at least a week.
Besides the bent strut, your propeller shaft might have also gotten a little bent.
#13
Hi Everyone,

I'm thinking about cutting and making the partition aft in the sail locker removable so I can have easy access to the rudder stuffing box, etc. It doesn't look like it serves any structural purpose but I'm wondering if anyone here would know better.
#14
Hello Everyone,

I'm doing some repairs on my rudder and I am unsure about what I've encountered. There were 3 small cracks about 1 1/2 to 2" long with delamination around them, so I decided to cut into them and discovered water logged wood blocks behind. They were about 1/2" x 2" x 2" and possibly teakwood(nope, it's 5/8" end grain balsa).  I dugged everything out and all seems quite sound including the rest of the rudder.

I'm wondering why they are actually there and how did it get that way. I know the rudder is built compartmentalized but those 3 spots seem odd to me.

I've uploaded pictures and hope someone here can elaborate on this.

Thanks.
#15
Hi Everyone,

I've been searching for the torque specifications for the 4 nuts that attach the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head on the Westerbeke 40, but haven't had any luck. I did find the specs for the W58 which states 20-24 ft. lbs.. I would assume that the W40 would be less, something like 18 ft. lbs.. Does anyone here know the correct torque specifications for them?

Thanks.