Pearson 365 and 367

For those who sail offshore, what are the roughest conditions you've encountered?  What were your concerns about the boat?

We've had a couple scares with big waves overwhelming cockpit drains. Thinking of plumbing extras. Anyone do something similar?

Pulled chainplates on hull #124 today.  Photos are from the starboard lower aft chainplate (the one in the pilot berth).   Seems Pearson failed to install all three bolts on my boat.  The top position is drilled in chainplate itself, but not the fiberglass.   Lower two bolts were bent and stretched.  Confident I'm the first person to pull the chainplates since our boat was built in 1977. 

We've restored three Pearsons - Triton, P33, and now P365.  I've heard rumors about Pearson's hasty production line in the 1970s, but this is my first direct encounter.  Failure was imminent. 

Survey wouldn't readily catch this defect, as they are normally concealed.  Check your boat carefully!

I replaced my fixed ports with new SS fixed castings from New Found Metals this spring. Machine skills (tap/dye +grinder) necessary to make ports flush.  NFM is just one person in the USA, nearing the end of his career.  The factory is in China.  Choose wisely. 

We've restored three Pearsons over the last 15+ years. NFM metals was my go-to, but not after the quality I received this spring.  I love their designs.  Hope circumstances change.

Ben

Our first stop was a reputable radiator shop. Unit deemed beyond repair, unfortunately. A former owner attempted a helicoil at the zinc - too many different metals together resulted in aggressive corrosion.

Ordered an aftermarket replacement from "Mr Cool".  Highly impressed with the quality, and speedy delivery.  Engine runs a few degrees cooler than ever, especially at idle  A good resource for owners in the same situation:  https://www.mrcool.us/14129-westerbeke-heat-exchanger.html

In need of a new heat exchanger for the W-40.  Part #14129.  Tried to order directly from Westerbeke, but 6-8 month wait time. Gulp.

Any recommendations for alternatives? Any owners happen to have one laying around?  Glad to pay a fair price. 

Thanks,
Ben (and Kate)
Resilient, Hull #124

Thanks for a thoughtful reply, as always, Dale.  My boat is on the hard, so I attached the prop shaft to the V drive as-is for now.  Will check alignment after launching.  Ran the engine in gear briefly for a dry run this evening. No unusual vibrations in forward or reverse.  Also, swapped the Paragon gear with an exact replacement over the winter, so plenty of places to inspect for issues. 

For the stuffing box packing - I used three rows of 3/16" Western Pacific Teflon.  Might consider adding a fourth row next time.  We'll see how it holds up. Have used graphite packing on other boats.  I did my best to match the old packing material, but think 1/4" could be worked into place as well. 

Buck Algonquin Hose # 80HO225.  Shorter than the 9" hose I removed, but thicker and safer.  Trade off is the lock nut is a little more difficult to access/adjust.  Still a friendlier setup than many boats.

Ben

Replaced my stuffing box hose with a new Buck Algonquin hose. Issue is V Drive alignment. I removed the flange that connects the propeller shaft to the V Drive to swap the hose, and found the flange far out of alignment with the V Drive when reassembling. Prop shaft sits lower and to starboard of the V Drive. Tolerances are still parallel, within .003.  How could this be? Cutlass bearing is tight - I'm unsure what could have changed. 

It's been covered before, but all tips for V drive alignment appreciated. 

Curious to hear progress.  My W40 had a rebuilt in 2004, does not leak a drop of anything, but has a very rusty timing cover from a leaky raw water pump (fixed last summer).  Perkins timing covers exist, inexpensive, online.   I'm pretty sure the crank pulley bolt can be undone, with a breaker bar in place, and rotating the starter to provide torque. Common procedure for car engines.  I don't see why not, in this instance.  Anyone try this procedure?

Does your boat have the original standing rigging?  If you replaced yours, what prompted the upgrade? 

Thank you, Dale!  Much appreciated.

Thanks for an informative reply, Dale.

It's helpful to know that your fixed port frames are a custom fabrication.  I've been searching for weeks to try and find a stock similar size.  I'll reach out to NFM.

We're handy - completely refitted our Pearson Triton (2010) and P33' (2015).   P365 is the boat we intend to keep longterm.  That said, if you have time to share interior photos of your fixed ports we'd be thankful. 

Thanks, again.
Ben and Kate
s/v Resilient (#124)

Planning to replace the four fixed port windows in the main cabin.   On Resilient (#124), the two aft windows above the galley and nav station are original.  However, the two in the main salon were replaced with seemingly larger Bomar opening ports 25+ years ago (best photos I have attached).   All four aft port windows are in poor condition, and could use an upgrade.  Seeking suggestions.   Ideally, we'd like to replace all four with matching fixed ports.  Concerned about how much was cut out of the cabin top when Bomars were installed. 

Dale- Any details about your fixed port replacement, especially rough opening requirements, and the size you settled on would be greatly appreciated.  We're hoping to do something similar. 

Thanks!
Ben and Kate
s/v Resilient (#124)
Former Pearson 33' and Pearson Triton liveaboards. 

Fitted the spreaders w/ bushings at the mast today.  Tight up and up/down - spreaders now rest at an angle the bisects the shroud!

Trouble is fore/aft play.  Belling is so severe that the spreader tips are free to move a few inches fore/aft at the tips.  Unsure if this will be an issue when rig is upright and tensioned? 

Wondering about adding metal to the belled area on the inside of spreaders with low temp aluminum brazing rod:  https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Demon-BDTP-125-01T-Aluminum-Zinc-Brazing/dp/B01MCTUIUN   

Thought is to build up metal on the inside and grind to fit with a dremel tool.  That said, I don't know enough about metals to evaluate corrosion implications of aluminum/zinc brazing.  My boat is in salt water.


Should I be considered about fore/aft spreader play?  Thanks!!

Bushings in place.  Turns out my clevis pins are tapered slightly toward the head.  Will be replacing and/or swapping with bolts.  Thank you, again, Dale!!! 

Very helpful, Dale!!  Thank you.  My boat spent decades sitting with the rig up year round, and poorly tuned, in Wisconsin.  I actually thought about over-drilling and using a bushing, but didn't know where to start looking for a vendor.  Like the idea of avoiding heat from welding.   

I'll take some measurements next time I'm at the boat yard.  That said, if you have a chance to take measurements I would greatly appreciate it.  I'm fairly handy, but don't do this sort of the every day.  Extra eyesight is invaluable. 

Thanks, again!
Ben