Pearson 365 and 367

In my message, I should have made clear that the fill cap is the one on the exhaust manifold.  The fill cap on the expansion tank, I leave off during this process.  The manifold cap should be eased off just a little because there is a lot of anti-freeze that wants out.  Good luck Mike Meier

I have the same engine in my 1982, 367.  There should be a bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing.  Loosen this and you should have air coming out and then the liquid will follow.  However, I found that this is not a sure thing.  What I have done and found this effective, is to loosen the fill cap and let some air out this way.  The first time I did this I was shocked at the amount of anti-freeze that filled it from the expansion tank and the volume of air that escaped.  There is another bleed point on the engine on the lower port side and though it is a pain, you can get the air out from the lower parts of the engine this way.  This has always worked for me, so good luck

Mike Meier

Well, of course,  it didn't occur to me that the forward part of the thing may not exist. Yeah, that is a problem.

Mike Meier

Ruvel, one more thing, my boat is in the shed having some wet core fixed around the old stay sail track and mast partner.  I am not allowed in there (virus) but when I am I'll measure the length. You shouldn't have any trouble with the length if you measure the two pieces, though.

Ruvel, yes the spirt is the same length.  I did widen it, however, so that I could house two anchors, one was a CQR, the other a 33 Bruce. The width was increased to 12".  By the pictures, the after end of he sprit was the original width and the additional width was "stepped" as  you can see. If I had made it 12" all the way, it wouldn't have fit.  Also, if you cut into the core, as I did, there was 1/2" plywood down the spine of the deck. Yes it was wet, but the balsa was not.  I replaced the plywood.  If I were to do it again, which I am not, I would use coosa board or G-10.  Those things weren't available when I did mine in 2005. 

Good luck, climbing around the anchor locker to take things a part, is not something I envy and, at my stage in life, I don't wish to do it.

Good luck

Mike Meier

Ruvel, now that I think that I have the hang of it, I'll send you a few more. I use three threaded 5/16 rod to join the planks.  Before that, though, they were all glued with epoxy and screwed together.  The fitting on the bow was made for me by a metal worker I knew at the time and  the 3/16 stainless bracket was difficult to say the least and after it was finished, he swore me to secrecy as to who built it. He never wanted to do another one, he said.  By  the way,  I have had some wet core repaired around my stainsail track and am replaceing the old Nicr-Fico X track with a lower profile Harken one. If you want it and the hardware with it, let me know.  Its free.

Mike Meier

Ruvel,  I replaced my sprit on my 367 during a refit in 2005. I have photos on a flash drive and will try an get them to you.  I used the "butcher block" fashion out of  teak.  I ordered the teak through Jamestown as they had the dimensions I needed in stock and it would not be as wasteful.  I installed a Lofrans Cayman for a windless and am very happy with it.   Here goes. I'm trying to send three, and if they don't work, I can send them via e-mail

Mike Meier

I just noticed the error in my cell phone number, it is (410)279-4827.  My home phone is 443-385-0278

Mike Meier
Blithe Spirit, 1982 367

I have replaced the stay sail boom on my 1982 367 and I no longer need the boom nor the pedestal.  I someone wants it, its your's for the taking. It has been painted white with Interlux perfection and some modifications made to it.  I live on Maryland's eastern shore.  Let me know.   

Email- mbblithe@gmail.com
cell phone (410) 270-4827

Mike Meier