Pearson 365 and 367

Projection is really only an issue above the navigation station.  Ventilation would be better with more opening ports.   Cost is a wash including screens.  I needed up ordering opening ports from newfound.  Three should arrive soon, one nearer second week of April.  Screens are pretty expensive for the large ports, but like them in the smaller ones. I should start installing them next week.

Nathan

Two years ago, I replaced the Beckson opening ports with 5 x 12 stainless opening ports from newfound metals aboard MiSamba.   I want to replace the main salon fixed ports because, even regasketed and bedded, the seem to need attention about annually to correct minor leaks.  I read Dale's write up on fixed ports he made with help from newfound and am torn on if  I want opening or fixed ports in the main salon.

Over the galley, I can see where opening has a distinct advantage.   I'm not sure about the other locations.  The overall projection into the space with th opening ports is a couple of inches.   Any thoughts on if going with one opening (over the galley) and three fixed  ports makes sense?   I believe the only advantage is that it would reduce the projection into the space and increased ventilation. Cost is similar.  From my measurements, it seems like the 6 x 20 size would work best near the galley.  Intent would be to size them all the same.  What size newfound ports have others installed in the main salon?

Nathan
MiSamba Hull #332

I'm about to replace my sole as well.   Availability of teak and holly isn't great in North Alabama and shipping is very high.  Considering two options currently, tongue and groove solid teak and maple or mahogany and holly.   Either would be bonded to the fiberglass sole.   Seems strange that solid wood would cost less shipped here.   My original sole came out in pieces as well. 

Dale,
   Your hatches turned out beautifully.   I have two spare hatch's .   I stripped one this weekend and smoothed it, next is etch, alodine, zinc chromate primer, epoxy primer, then paint.    Believe your post said you used an awlgrip product.   I'm considering an automotive silver metallic with clear coat.  Have your hatches aged well with their coating?   

Nathan

Agree on Chinese stuff ( as I reply on my Made in China Iphone)I have the espar already, really just trying to get through other projects first.  I'm a mechanical engineer and spent some time doing calculations on what the boat would need.  The espar D4 is 4kW (13,683BTU/hr) and webasto makes a 5.5kW.  I wasn't sure that the 4kW version would be enough for the boat, but also wanted the low setting to be low enough to now heat the boat up too much (minimum setting on the webasto is 150% of the D4).  The Chinese heater, which you can adjust fueling and fan curves for allowed me to figure out sizing without potentially wasting the price of the others.  Cabin Sole is next in the queue. 

Mine is the cheap Chinese knockoff of an espar.  I bought it to see if it had enough capacity vs the webasto 5kw air top.   Planned to replace it with an espar, but it seems to work very well and haven't gotten to it yet.   If you go that route, check into the afterburner controller.   Allows remote heater operation and vessel monitoring.    I can check temperature and battery voltage with my phone using MQTT.   There are four configurable input/outputs.   I've used two so far.  One tied to my high water bilge alarm and another to a relay that senses AC voltage present.   It is nice to preheat the boat before going down there.  I think espar or webasto is a better product and the hydronic systems are basically better.   I did use webasto exhaust and duct work.   Exhaust as shipped with China heater are a great way to win a Darwin Award.  Total installed cost with me performing labor and the afterburner is around $800.   Most of that is exhaust and duct work.

I installed a diesel heater in my 365.  The heater is mounted in the starboard sail locker exhaust out the stern.   Duct runs forward through wet locker and under navigation station to an t just forward of the water tank.   One duct enters the main cabin near the main bulkhead, 3" duct continues to a splitter which routes 60mm webasto duct to both the head and V-berth.  I also mounted a fitting in the aft bulkhead above the alcohol locker and oil return air to the heater there.  Mine is quiet, economical (fuel and battery), and keeps the boat very comfortable through the winter. 

Did you save the old propane lockers?  I'm looking for some for MiSamba

The previous owner of MiSamba had purchased a Bamar C4 furler,  replacement headstay and a 135% Genoa from Mack Sails.  I don't have much experience with the furler yet, but it works much nicer than the two on my previous boats (A Hood and a Harken).  I can easily furl the sail by hand.