Pearson 365 and 367

Ah sure does happen to the best of us.
Cheers!

Thank you very very much! I will be sure to pay vlose attention to the period, and a nice south breeze.. About what did you typically average for speed?
Thanks!

Hello all,
I must apologize for being so absent on the forum.. I will get to that in a bit.

We are currently in the Bahamas, and are trying to cross up to Beaufort NC in the next week-couple weeks. Everytime I look at the weather it says a minimum of 5 foot seas.. Is that normal for the East Coast? What are the typical conditions and route we should take to get up there?

Now to fill you all in: we left South Texas a few months ago and got some pretty foul weather (35kts and 8-10 footers). This blew out our well loved jib 70 miles off shore and we wound up running back to Texas (into the matagorda inlet where we had to dodge crashing/barreling waves inside of the inlet that were half the height of the mizzen-this still has me traumatized to date) where we rode out a 5 hour squall of 67kts on anchor (200ft of chain out and 55lb Rocna at a 20:1 scope.. We were dragging at a 12:1).. We proceeded up the icw to Freeport TX then set sail on a 10day crossing straight to the dry tortugas.. Then went up to key west and crossed to Freeport Bahams, where we spent a month bumming around the island. We then left and spent a few weeks cruising the Berry Islands and the spead down to Nassau where we rode out the edge of Hurricane Dorian, thank heavens we tucked in here. And now TS Huberto (on anchor-and I would not recommend..

Is this amount of bad weather normal for folks cruising or is this a bad season? (And yes we waited for weather windows of 15kts or less.. Not trying to see Neptune's wrath)
Thanks all!

Hey guys just figured I would give an update and a PSA!

I checked my oil the other day and noticed that not only was my oil grey but my engine had more oil in it.. and sadly it doesn't mean that the engine makes oil.

Recently I had the bearings in the raw water pump fail. This would have been a relatively non-issue if the bearings didn't happen to be just slightly larger than the drain holes on the pump and therefore plugging them. This lead to filling the crank case with salt water and therefore the engine makes 'mo oil.
Noticed some water and discovered the holes were clogged, so inspected and replaced the pump and a couple oil changes later and we are looking good, no additional 'mo oil.

So check those drain holes folks!

So based off of what Raymarine lists for their drives' vs boat displacement, there are two options: a linear fit, or some exponential/polynomial variation. With linear, a 8" arm will equate for a 19.2klb boat where as a polynomial fit would equate to a 21.3klb boat.
So with a 8" you would be close to or at the limit to what Raymarine would consider the Max displacement of their Type 1. Where if you went with a 11" say for example would equate to 26.5klb linear and 25.4klb poly, which at the worst would be rated 4k or 2 tons higher, which would equate to less power required in heavy seas.
Not sure how you mean to turn in her length, but we get in and out of our slip no problem with a 5' davit and ~60' of horizontal clearance to enter the slip (so she still turns about the same).
I only had to move the stops out 1" to meet (just before the ends of the autopilot). Before the install I could turn the wheel helm about 3 times over in a direction and after the install it goes 2.75 times over so not a huge difference.
Hope that helps?

Hey just took her out the other day for the first time since the addition.
In truth I hardly notice the difference.. If anything just a bit higher rpm to walk the transom but not much else.
In comparison to the wheel pilot, this one has been really great. it drew 1-3 amps under a moderate 5ft chop and went to 6 momentarily when we got broadsided by a rouge biggie, it did not show any issue of struggle or issue maintaining course.. So far/overall we are very happy with it. We are set to start our crossing next month and cruise the rest of the year, so i'll be sure to give a tried and trued testimony.
Run the quick 'recommended' displacement calcs for torque to boat displacement to see if 8" works, I seem to recall it is close to 20k lb.

Oooh if only had the spendable $$

Would you mind adding us on the list?
P365 hull #193
Boat name: Nereid
Owner: Isaac

We are cruising in a month so we don't have a set location yet..

Where is the updated file located?

Hey Pete,
No worries.. I have done the math and that is close to the angle that I get (and yes the rudder stops were installed after those photos were taken..). The design choice was to make the arm 11" and not the ~10 that they call, so that the pin could be removed without having to drill a hole in the quadrant, not to mention the pin has to be removed from the bottom due to the lack of head space (installing the arm under the quadrant would be a nice design change though).

The downside of having a longer tiller arm means the time per rudder degree change is slower at max drive speed, and the degree change/deflection of the rudder is smaller by about 7 degrees.
The positives are that I can remove the pin with ease for maintenance and the effective maximum torque of the motor imposing on the rudder has increased (by 65 ft lbf). And using the same rating system Raymarine uses for their boats increases the 'rating' of the autopilot to steer a boat that is 26k+ pounds rather than 24k pounds it is originally, which effectively translates as the maximum roughness of the sea that the autopilot can handle.
Therefore 1 extra inch= 1 Ton extra boat weight..
That said if I were to do it again I would mount the tiller arm closer to the cross strut, below the quadrant.

Some photos

I would agree that mounting the arm under the quadrant is a better location to reduce the bending deformation under load. However it would make since for the linear drive to be mounted on the lateral axis (starboard to port) since the resultant torsional force acts 90 degrees and therefore impose a force alighned with the cross beam.

Ok Billy I got your message, but I couldn't reply for some reason:

Hey I actually just finished it Saturday night!

So there i was looking at the photos of what Garner did and poking my head down there like 'No flippn way!'.
I think there must be at least 6" more clearance under the sole in the 367, than the 365!

I purchased and installed the Type 1 short (displacement of 12" & 650lbf).
Attached to the circular bit of the shaft, with the additional bit of the key made.
I had a tiller arm manufactured for me from a 1" thick piece of aluminum.
The whole set up has less than 1/8" of clearance at the lowest point between the cabin sole (aft under quadrant) and the top of the bolt I chose that connects the two arms (the total clearance between the top of my quadrant and the bottom of the sole is ~2.5").
Also, the tiller arm I had made is not 10", but is in fact ~11" from the center of the shaft to the autopilot connecting pin. I chose to do this because accessing the bolt/pin or attachments through the quadrant just isnt practical when there isnt even enough room to pull the bolt/pin out

The bulkhead attachment that Garner did (aft side of the starboard aft bulkhead) is tooo damn hard to do good glass work in, since you have to be on your back with just barely enough clearance to shimmy your way in (under the cabinsole/propanebox sole). So I glassed/tabbed the forward side of the bulkhead.. and it is strong as hell (I used 4 layers of fine woven cloth staggered).
I was thinking on posting my results and some photos to the thread.

Hopefully that helps?

Yup anytime! Seems like the forum has slowed down as of late. Are you guys on a 365 ketch?
SeaDragon has some great instructions for How to Install a Linear Drive, but there are some discrepancies due to the distance behind the starboard aft bulk head and between the rudder quadrant and the cockpit sole being only 2.5" which limits what tiller arm you can get.
So far I am at about $4k for the latest Ev-200 Linear Drive and the install (tabbing a 0.5" plywood to that bulkhead to reinforce it to hold the 650lb load the drive can produce).
Just tabbed the bulkhead and installed the AP 'Brain' and just awaiting on my tiller arm to come in so I can install the drive itself and the rudder sensor.
Also, I still have the wheel pilot AP installed to act as a redundant back up.

Sorry, I cant help on the parts.. I was looking for some for my SXP-5 Autopilot and Raymarine did a way with it and 'upgraded' to the ev-100 wheel pilot. Which left me with the option of another wheel pilot or Below Deck Pilot.
So currently I am installing a below deck linear drive AP.