Pearson 365 and 367

Any success with your oil seal?  i need to tackle this project but dont know if it can be done with the engine in the boat.

Chuck Rudderly Confused, this is a huge help!   Thanks so much for the clear photos that show where to T into the engine.  I thought it went in near the thermostat from descriptions I had read but it makes more sense at the back of the head. 

I would guess your cutoff valve at the expansion tank is to send all the coolant flow through the water heater?  Personally, I'd think I'd want the opposite: a way to bypass the water heater flow would be a good thing....

Chuck Sailing_Photog
s/v Laura Jack
1979 P365 sloop

Thanks P69.  I had found most of those threads but was hoping for photos showing clearly which port is which on the thermostat area and what hose on the remote filler/expansion tank I should tap into.  Seems like all the engine info online I can find uses bad photocopies of screen printed manuals and you can't really see details.

I've been advised NOT to plumb the water heater in series, as the service bulletin 95 says to do. 

I took out the non-functioning and rusting Paloma propane on-demand water heater in my P365 and have installed a new Isotemp water heater.  (The propane water heater scared the crap out of me the last time it poofed in a mini explosion while trying to light it, and I'm glad it's gone.)

Now my question:  how do I plumb the water heater to the Westerbeke 40?  I have the engine cooling system's expansion tank up under my starboard lazarette lid.  The water heater is above the engine but below the expansion tank.  I've seen mention of having to run a line to the expansion tank and not directly to the engine?  I really have no clue how to hook into my antifreeze/fresh cooling system and get flow through the heater.  Photos and clear explanations appreciated! Really want to use that shower....

i don't really have an answer for you, but when I replaced my V drive, alignment was very challenging even with a U-joint - much more so than previous motor-only alignments on other boats.  I would get the telescoping U-joint shaft back in there, I think.

As of August 2017 the Westerbeke 40 oil cooler hoses #19150 and #19151 are back-ordered by months. 

This thread helped me find a local shop to make some new hoses with the british inverted flare fitting on one end, since I knew what to ask for when calling around.  Moreland Hose in Oakdale, New York (on Long Island) made me a set in a few minutes.  They even made it with Coast Guard approved fittings and hose.  Thanks stwagstaff!!!

But the reason I'm posting is to warn anyone taking off their oil cooler that the swivel fitting is on the oil filter end of the hoses and WILL NOT SWIVEL until you loosen the smaller nut of the fitting.  I destroyed a hose before I figured this out, making new ones necessary.  Maybe I'm stupid but it wasn't obvious. Don't turn the 7/8" fittings on the hoses until you loosen the swivel, which on mine took a 19mm wrench.

By the way, Lenco Coolers in Long Island can make your oil cooler and heat exchanger for you in a very short time.

Burp!  I don't have an answer for you but I'm interested in this too. 

I bought my 365 (with a Westerbeke 40) that had been on the hard.  Launched with antifreeze level full at the cap of the remote fill in the starboard locker.  Motored home.  Next day, the antifreeze was down by almost a gallon.

I feared the heat exchanger or the head gasket was bad even though it ran fine.  But after refilling, the level hasn't gone down since.

Maybe it just needed burping, poor baby.

There's a second radiator cap on top of the exhaust manifold - I would think you could burp there?

BTW, it holds a lot of antifreeze. I'm in the process of replacing the heat exchanger and oil cooler and drained 2 1/2 gallons of antifreeze out.  Had to drink a few extra bottles of water yesterday to have containers for the last 1/2 gallon!

Just to follow up - I finally screwed up enough courage to bend the sliding cabinet doors enough to get them out.  They are indeed a very tough material - lexan? - and didn't break.  Then was able to get the shelf out, which allowed me to get the back panel out, which let me get the side panel out, which gave me access to the vented loop which is fastened to the wall just behind the right side of the medicine cabinet. 

Everything takes ten times as long as you think!

Thanks for the reply - I'm afraid to bend the sliding doors enough to get them out of their tracks - they really seem on the verge of breaking when I try.  I'll figure it out eventually!

I need to access the area behind the shower on my 1979 365 sloop.  I've read previous posts about having to go in through the medicine cabinet to do this.

But how much of the cabinet does one need to remove? I can't even get the sliding doors off. My cabinet is assembled with soft bronze or brass screws that are refusing to come out due to corrosion.  Before I start drilling out all the screws, can I just remove the right-hand panel? It looks to be under the other panels so I'm guessing not.

Sigh. Everything takes longer than expected. 

Just venting here. 'Cause everything hurts. And I need sympathy.

Had my RV10 v-drive rebuilt by Walter Gears.  They replaced everything inside, painted it blue, and sent it back in a few days for a buncha money.  Now that Spring is here, I'm trying to re-install it before launch time.  You wouldn't think it would be difficult, since it's the same chunk of metal that came out of the boat in the Fall.

However, they took off the two mounting brackets and returned them unattached.  Those little L-shaped brackets are asymmetric and I spent all day today trying to figure out how to put the damn v-drive back in so the prop shaft flange lines up with the shiny new flange they put on the v-drive.

I'm a big guy and lying down on the cabin floor with your ribs against sharp corners, trying to bolt in a 40-pound, finger-crushing gearbox leads to lots of bruises in lots of places. And you can't tell if it lines up until you tighten up some bolts. Which are very difficult to reach.  Oops, doesn't work that way, unbolt it and switch the brackets around with the longer leg THAT way.  Wait, what do you mean they're not identical port and starboard as well? 

Ok, I'll try again tomorrow.

(Moral of the story: mark your brackets with a cold chisel or something before sending your v-drive off for rebuild.)

Quote from: Rudderly Confused on November 02, 2016, 03:30:22 PM
Thanks Chuck, and congratulations to you too. You bought Shayna? 

I bought her as soon as I saw her.  I wonder if you were the guy with the clipboard when I got there? 

Had a survey done and didn't spot any fatal flaws, but if it makes you feel any better, I had to rebuild the v-drive and get a new windlass, both of which cost a lot more than expected ($2k each.) The old windlass was so corroded it took three weekends with increasingly larger gear pullers to get it off. The plumbing and wiring is a mess as well, and I don't know how I'll ever get all the oil out of the bilge. I won't know how the roller furling works until next spring when we launch. I also didn't realize the fancy Lectrasan head treatment system can't be used in Long Island Sound, so will have to replumb the holding tank. 

I'm 2-3 hours from the boat so I've been working on it on weekends.  Most of my time has been spent figuring out what to do, rather than actually doing something. This is my 7th or 8th sailboat but the 365's systems are way more complicated than I'm used to.

Good luck with your new boat!

Chuck

Chuck, I am also a new owner of a 1979 sloop and am also Chuck!

I've been spending time down in the lockers.  Mine has two batteries in the forward part of the port locker.  I would suggest checking out the engine access before you move your batteries there.  You need to be able to get to the essential bits and my battery boxes don't make it any easier.

Engine access isn't as easy as I thought it would be.  Just because you can see it, doesn't mean you can reach it!

Chuck Fadely
s/v Shayna
on the hard in CT

Dale, we did a week in Penobscot Bay at the end of August aboard an historic schooner out of Camden. 

One of the places we sailed by was Stonington on Deer Isle, which I think is accessible by land thanks to a bridge over Eggemoggin Reach.  It's a long way from anywhere, though.

There was a marina in Stonington where I thought it would be great to keep a boat. Well protected. Amazing cruising grounds.   Mix of working boats, wooden boats, and yachts from what I could see. You might check it out. Nearby is the Wooden Boat school.

The lobster pots throughout the region were unbelievable - I'd definitely try to figure out a way to protect the prop.

Chuck

Wayne, glad to hear the tanks are ok to use. I didn't see any markings on the steel propane tanks indicating they were for horizontal use.  Any idea how I could confirm?