Pearson 365 and 367

Skookster,

My experience mirrors your almost exactly, such as the cable sizes and the need for an adapter.  I ended up using 2x 10' cables as the 9' ones were out of stock. 

Thanks for the tip about adjusting the transmission lever!  As you said, it's a 1-finger movement at the business end.

I was able to unbolt the eyebolts on the steering quadrant and loosen the steering chain that way.  A must for pulling up the d@%#! cable clamp. 

The key to installing the new cables is tieing a string to the end of one so that you can push it under the  wheel shaft then pull it back up on the correct side. 

The difference in movement is amazing!

This weekend will be final adjustments and testing, but overall, glad it is done and complete.

Chuck

Thanks for the info Dale.  I have the new cable [turns out the old cable is a 5/16, but mcMaster0Carr sells conversion inserts ]

What I can't do is manage to pull the cables up and out of the pedestal.  I've unbolted the internal clamp that holds the throttle and shifter cables (see photo of external side of bolt)  This photo is a screen grab from a YouTube video showing a cable replacements on the same pedestal. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvCL_NwOMbo&t=5s)

I've even cut the old shift cable right below the pedestal (above the fuel tank), and pulled the throttle cable very slack under the cockpit floor, but still can not get the clamp nut to come up. It's loose and moves around, just not up! 

In another Youtube video, the person stated they had to remove their steering chain in order to get the cables out.  I hope not!  As you can see in the other photo, my cables are swagged onto the eye-bolts.  Not clamped...so that'd open an entirely new (and larger) can of worms.

Any ideas?  I am at a loss here.  I have to travel to attend to some family issues and may have to hire the local boat mechanic, but I hate doing that.  The only other "professional" work on the boat was a rigger when I replaced all my standing rigging.

All suggestions appreciated.

Dale,  Thanks for the info.  Do you know the length?  I need that in order to order a replacement without taking out the old one to measure it.  I need to leave the old one in to use it to pull through as you suggest.

The ends do have a 10-32 threaded end as you say. 

The forum comes through again!

Happy Independence Day!

Chuck

The gear shifter cable is getting really sticky.  The actual transmission lever moved back and forth with no resistance what-so-ever...the resistance is entirely in the cable.

Attached is a photo of the "transmission end" of the cable where it's secured to the engine.  Both ends of the cable seem to terminate in a ~4" rod.  I was hoping that I could simply pull the cable out, clean and lube, then re-insert if from the cockpit end.  However, the rod on the transmission end seems to prevent this. 

After removing the compass to access, I can still barely see the cable end.  I've sprayed lithium "grease" and some other lubes on both ends and worked the cable back and forth (with the shift lever) which seems to have improved things slightly. Both ends seems to be somewhat sealed, so I don't know if pulling the cable through is viable, or if replacing the entire cable is needed.  That seems rather drastic.

Any thoughts?  Is removing the cable possible?  How does one even access the shift end, which seems inaccessible in the cockpit pedestal?


Thanks

Chuck
Wind Dragon
#379 (Sloop)
   

Had the same issue (pin holes leaking oil).  Tried the same fix (a thick epoxy) which has largely solved the issue.  Pretty happy, since there were multiple holes and some larger then "pin" size.  My next step if needed would be the same as yours (a good cleaning) followed by a high temp epoxy and fiberglass cloth.  It would likely require two or three pieces about 2"x2"

Normally, it's the fiberglass which provides strength; the epoxy holds it in position.  In this case, my thinking is that the fiberglass would help the epoxy obtain a larger surface area to grip, and allows a lower viscosity to be used, giving better bonding.

Any other thoughts?

Chuck
SV Wind Dragon

Thanks for that Mike.  When you replaced yours, did you replace the front handrails also?  There's not an inner counterpart for them.

Chuck

Thanks, Dale.  Trading one issue for another, as "now" the hardware is on the wrong side of the cabin liner.     Visiting this weekend, so we'll take a critical look. 

Any ideas, other then locating the spots & cutting through the liner?  (then installing an access cover afterwards to pretty up the ceiling).  That's 20 holes by my count (4 fore +6 aft) x both port and stb side. 

The PO had let all the exterior teal go grey.  Think this will be the winter project.  Here's the question:  How to remove the handrails.

The teak bungs are missing, meaning the mounting hardware is visible.  There seems to be about 1/8" bolts with a nut on top.  Simple, right.  Just un-do the nut and pul the handrail off.  Here's the "but":  there is no space around the nuts.  Not even sure how they were tightened in the first place.  Thought they might have been tightened from below, but can't find that end at all.

Any one done this before?

Chuck

Pulled the RV10 and had it re-built by Walters.  Looked like the first time its been out of the boat since 1981.  Well, it looks good now, just need it back in the bilge.

The instructions say to maintain no more then 0.003" gap between the prop shaft and VDrive flanges.  However, as you can see in the photo's, the shaft flange has a key which extends beyond the flat "plane" of the flange.  1/8" beyond to be exact.

There is no matching detent in the vDrive flange, so getting a close matching on the flanges can happen.  Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of this detail pre-removal. 

Am I missing something, or should bult them together with the key flush to the VDrive flange?

Chuck Davis
SV Wind Dragon,
#379, Sloop

the "notify me of replies" is on by default.  I did not receive any notification.

Let me check PM's.

Hmm.  Just saw your reply.  Can you set your settings to get notified?  Anyway, I have a Sloop where  a PO installed an inner stay, meaning the mast in 18in fwd of its location on the ketch.  Just measured and looks like 10'.   

Would it be possible to cut and end off and re-attached the end piece?  I guess anything is possible...Any chance you can send pictures?  email address below (spelled so as to not be picked up by scanning programs)

Chuck

  ceddavis a t gee male

mine is up on my sloop.  Would that help?

can take pictures on Sunday or next week.

Risto - Do you still have the boom assembly?  What is the length of the boom?


Chuck