Pearson 365 and 367

A great resource!  Thank you.

Mine is secured with 1" webbing straps, which are attached to various points in the boat with a screw and washer.  The webbing is not super tight, so they allow for some hose movement, but I don't see any chafe on the straps or hose.  It's a 1978, and the straps appear to be original.  My fuel fill hose is secured the same way.

Thanks for the replies!  One canvas maker I spoke to said they've seen small blocks attached behind the zipper pull and another at the mast, with a continuous loop of light line passed through the blocks and attached to the zipper pull.  The zipper can then be opened or closed from the mizzen mast, depending on which way the line is pulled.  Seems like a bit of a complication, but if it works and saves me a trip along the side and back decks, it works!  There is still the matter of getting the sail into the cover ...

A question for 365 ketch owners, who also have a bimini installed: Does it interfere with accessing the mizzen boom to use the mizzen sail cover? I'd like to install a bimini so I don't fry to a crisp on sunny days, but it's already difficult to get to the zipper on my mizzen cradle cover. I can't imagine getting to the zipper at the aft end of the boom with a bimini in the way also. Any work-arounds for this issue?

I did a combination of both.  As Dale suggested, all pumps and high draw items are straight to the panel runs.  I also installed 4 - Blue Sea Systems #5025 6 circuit fuse blocks in various locations: one for the nav instruments, one for running lights, steaming lights, deck lights, and anchor light, one for starboard cabin lights/fans. and one for port cabin lights/fans.  I used #14 awg duplex from the fuse blocks to the lights/fans and instruments, and #10 awg duplex from the breaker panel to the fuse blocks.  Each appliance can use an appropriately sized fuse at the block, and total amps in the block are less than the 15 amps of the breaker at the panel.  Since I changed all my lighting to LED, the total amps isn't even close to the 15 amp breaker. 

Welcome back!

Stupid question of the day ... how do I tell if my injector pump is mechanical or hydraulic?  I have a Westerbeke 40 in my 1978 365 ketch, and probably need to replace the #1 injector line, which is part #46 on the parts diagram.  But the parts description lists 4 different options for #46, based on engine and if the injector pump is hydraulic or mechanical.  I'm thinking I need #46-4, which is described as "mech pump 107-108-ED", but these lines aren't cheap, and I don't want to order the wrong part.
Secondary stupid question of the day, since the W40 is a Perkins4-108, is it cheaper to get the injector line from a Perkins dealer than a Westerbeke dealer?

For anyone interested, it appears to have been a combination of problems.  The air intake was pretty grungy, so I removed it, cleaned it with brake cleaner, and replaced it.  When starting the bleed process back at the beginning, I found the little O-ring on the Racor T handle wasn't seated right, corrected that.  I bled the injector pump longer, flowing fuel (no bubbles) for about 10 seconds before closing bleed bolt.  Opened all 4 injector bolts at once, closing one at a time while cranking the starter.  When starting to close the third one, the engine started.  Closed the remaining injector bolt, and it ran like a champ.  Mission accomplished!

For future reference, does it matter if the injectors are bled at the intake nut, or the banjo fitting on the return line?  My first try was the banjo fittings, the last was the inlet nuts.

Hi all. 

I'm having a "no start" problem while recomissioning my Westerbeke 40 (aka 4-108) for the season.  It was running fine at the end of last season.  As part of the lay up I changed the primary and secondary fuel filters, and bled the system to the injector pump using a small in-line 12V pump.  Did not run the engine after bleeding in the fall because the water was already turned off in the yard. Tried to start today, no success.  Primary filter (Racor) is full, secondary filter bled, injector pump bled, and all 4 injectors bled, all flow fuel and no bubbles ... still no start.  Repeated bleeding sequence 3 times, with the in-line pump and the manual lift pump, no start.  Engine turns freely, but won't start.  It was 65 degrees, but I still tried pre-heat button for 30 seconds, Engine turns freely, tries to catch once, but still no start.  Repeated with pre-heat several times, same results.  Tries to catch once, then just spins, no start.

What am I missing?

Yeah, I can't quite figure out the use for that valve, and always leave it open.  Seems like if it was closed, it would prevent circulation in the closed cooling loop, or force all the coolant through the water heater and it's smaller hoses.  I just added a bypass at the back of the water heater to prevent that.  I was having overheating problems at the end of last season, and one of the service bulletins said a restriction in the water heater could cause that.  The bulletin recommended a bypass, so I'll see how that works out this season.

Hi Sailing Photog,

I've been meaning to reply, and finally got around to taking a few photos.  My 1978 365 came with the setup shown in the pics, but I won't claim it is the "right way". All I can say is it works for me.  I don't have a port on the engine in the thermostat area, I have a T in the hose from the thermostat to the expansion tank.  The small end of the T (5/8") goes to one side of the water heater.  There is a valve between the thermostat and the T, but I have no idea what purpose it serves.  I just left it as it came (open).  The other hose goes from the water heater to a T on a pipe nipple to the water temp alarm sensor.  The pic of the back of the water heater shows the old (red) hoses, before replacement.  Hope this helps.

Chuck
Valhalla

I haven't re-bedded my tracks (yet), but this video shows someone that applied butyl to the entire bottom of the track. It doesn't look like they used TefGel under the bolt heads.  It also explains how they dealt with some corrosion on the bottom of the track before they reinstalled it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQlXZDJEthQ&index=35&list=PLoE3FmplhAXNsNWWZ6iTMzYYwKVtDanCr&t=566s

Hope this helps.

Chuck

Update:

As usual for me, the actual work on the project was easier than the planning of it in my head.  The outlet terminal screws that I thought were captive, actually did screw all the way out as P69 said, once I applied a little more torque. The side terminals were the push in- screw clamp type, not just the ones that you wrap the wire around the screw then tighten it.  I didn't have to pigtail the grounds, I was able to get 2 ring terminals onto the ground screw.  The only hard part was that 2 of the 3 outlets were not the simple standard outlet.  The first in the circuit was a GFCI, and the last was a USB combo outlet.  Both of those outlet bodies was a little wider than the standard outlet, so it was a bit of a squeeze fitting into the box, but they did fit. 

As can be seen in the pics, the old outlets were simply installed into an opening made by drilling 2 holes with a hole saw, wrapped in electrical tape, and held in place with gobs of silicone.  I squared off those holes, installed new electrical boxes for the outlets, and installed a new AC main panel.

Thanks Della and Dave,

I've read much of Mainesail's posts, but couldn't find anything specific on making connections to the AC outlets.  He also has a forum (Musings with Mainesail) on Sailboat Owner's.com.  I've searched Nigel Calder's book also, also with nothing specific on outlet connections.  The Smart Plug connections are straight forward, and I did that this past summer.  I use the Ancor heat shrink terminals for all my connections.  Wire labeling will be another project unto itself!  I haven't removed any old outlets yet, but I'm guessing they won't be good examples to follow to re-install the new ones.  The old ones are just set into holes drilled into the bulkhead, no electrical box, but plenty of silicone globbed in there to hold it in place. 

Chuck

Hi all,

I'm planning on re-wiring my 110V AC system in the near future, mostly because of its age and poor condition.  Initially I just planned to swap out the shore power inlet/plug with the Smart Plug connections, but when I did I found the wire in the boat was not tinned, and was showing signs of corrosion.  I found the wires connected to my water heater in the same poor condition.  In addition, the survey noted no main AC panel at all, no breakers, and recommended a complete AC system upgrade.  After 40+ years, I agree it is needed.

To concentrate on just one step in this process, how are the AC outlets to be wired in a boat?  Are boat outlets any different than house outlets?  I know stranded wire (not solid) must be used, wire nuts must not be used, and using fork terminals, or connecting stranded wire directly to the outlet terminal screws is frowned upon.  If the outlet has captive terminal screws for the hot and neutral wires that can't be removed to install a ring terminal, what is the "right" way to make the connection?  Also, if I run a circuit of just one outlet, I have the same issue of a captive screw for the green ground wire.  It gets worse if I want to run a circuit of 3 outlets, how do I create a pigtail (as I would in house wiring) to connect the 2 green wires to 1 ground screw on each outlet?

Chuck