Does anyone know how to change the coolant in the engine. Where is the drain plug and what steps should I take?
I don't know about the drain plug location, but if you pull the hose or the end cap off the heat exchanger that will get most of it out. Just be sure to orient the heat exhanger cap correctly: there is a raised lip in the middle of the cap that must be properly positioned or you can ruin the cap. Replacement costs around $125.
To my recollection there is a drain plug on the statboard side of the engine just aft of the motor mount.
I've never used it because the valve is rusted shut.
It's one of the items on my never ending project list. (Near the bottom!)
Hope this helps.
Henri Hali
SV Windrider
I am about to change mine too and have read that the "green" coolant is a NO NO and that only "pink" or "orange" coolant should be used. I'd like to hear from anyone else to confirm this.
I have always used the "green" stuff... See page 43 of the Operator's Manual (link below if needed) for the Westerbeke Specs.
http://www.sailingseadragon.com/Manuals/westerbeke4-108.pdf
I hope this helps.
Garner
Back when I was working for a Caterpillar dealer, the pink stuff was Nalcool. It had to be used in the newer engines because they had a lot of aluminum in the cooling systems. We had quite a few projects come in where the aluminum componets had holes in them from electrolysis, and nearly all of them had green coolant in them. Apparently, those folks did not read the owner's manual that came with the engine. The all cast iron engines did not have that problem. I don't believe the W-40 has any aluminum in the cooling system. We run the green stuff in ours. You can run the pink antifreeze, I think most of them are long life coolants and are more expensive. Check the jug to see what it is. You will probably find that it offers "superior protection for aluminum componets". If you plan to change to change the coolant every year, I wouldn't spend the extra money for it.
It is important to change the coolant anually. Antifreeze is loaded with silicates. As the antifreeze gets old and tired, the silicates begin to drop out of suspension. It may still test good, offering good freeze protection, but in reality it is beginning to drop crud in your cooling system. The long life coolants are a little different. Ideally, the level of corrosion inhibitors should be tested to determine when to change it.
If you repower with an engine that has aluminum in the cooling system, be aware that engine will most likely have different needs for cooling system maintenance. You can't just pour whatever is handy in it and expect it to like it. It will probably need the pink or orange coolant. Not using it will be expensive. If I were shopping for another engine, I would not reject one simply because it has aluminum in it. It has different requirements for coolant and you need to be aware of that. As long as you meet it's needs, it should lead a long life.
Garner,
Thank you for the link. and thanks to all that offered help
Hoff
I, too, thank you all for the links and the added information. Can't ever seem to know enough and always need to keep learning.
John