Pearson 365 and 367

I'm not familiar with the bilge on a 365, but on the 36 Cutter with the extra foot of draft, the bilge is very deep. Anything that falls in is very difficult to retrieve. Also I'm not happy with my float switch setup. Has anyone figured out a way to get a float switch down deep where it will keep most of the water out? Or has anyone considered filling in the bottom foot or so and raising the floor of the bilge up? Could you just pour epoxy in and let it set up?

I personally like the deep bilge.  I feel like it gives me quite a bit time to find and fix a leak before allowing the water to reach the floorboards.  It definately loves to swallow up tools though... But nothing I haven't been able to retrieve with some tongs.  

Here is what a lot of people do.  Make a pole that will reach the bottom of the bilge.  You can make your pole out of stainess, aluminum, or plastic.  I have seen people use old stainless rubrail sections or PVC pipe.  Attach your float switch or automatic pump the the bottom of the pole somehow, and lower it into the bilge.  You can glue a block onto the wall of the bilge under the vee-drive and attach the top of your pole to it.  This makes it easy to service your pump simply by pulling up the pole.  

In my case I made two seperate poles.  Both poles have independant bilge pumps attached.  I have arranged them so they are stacked on top of eachother.  That way, I have a backup ready to pump in the case that the primary goes bad.  You can Y into one of the above the water line deck scupper 1 1/2" hoses for your second pump discarge.  I fully recomend adding a second pump system if you don't already have one.  You will sleep better at night.

Great concept Kevin...thanks for sharing.  I have THREE bilge pumps by the way...I figure when it comes to Bilge pumps SIZE does Matter

Kevin,
I love your idea of stacking the pumps.  I have been trying to stuff two pumps down under but even though the sump is large, it is also restrictive.  My primary pump is a 2000 gph and my last chance pump is a 3700 gph. Fitting both of these pumps down into the sump and still have them servicable has been my problem.  You sir have just solved that problem... Life is good thanks to you...   Dale Tanski

I have upgraded the shower sump pump, and, if needed, I can disconnect the inlet hose to help pump out water.  Also, I've heard you can disconnect the raw water hose inlet and use the engine to pump out water in an emergency, too.

Marc,
If you install a tee in the raw water cooling line between the seacock and the raw water strainer, and run a hose from a valve installed on that tee to the bottom of the bilge, you can use the raw water pump as an emergency pump.  You simply open the valve that has the hose to the bilge and close off your seacock.  This will allow the raw water pump to suck out of the bilge.  If you are not leaking enough to satisfy the engines cooling requirements, you can "crack" the seacock and ballance off the water requirements.  
Dale Tanski

Quote from: "Maruska"Marc,
If you install a tee in the raw water cooling line between the seacock and the raw water strainer, and run a hose from a valve installed on that tee to the bottom of the bilge

Which is exactly what we have done as well...BUT...I would recommend having a debris cage around the end of the bilge line or you could suck up a "bilge rat" and knock out your cooling system!

Dale, Thanks for your useful comments.  Regards, Marc

How much water does the engine pump? What happens if you all of a sudden pump it dry?

NormP

I really do not know the answer to your first question, and it depends of course on the RPM's of the engine.  It may be better to think that it may pump just enough to keep you afloat, as I would consider using the engine raw water pump as a last gasp situation.  This being said, if we are talking a waterline raising leak, than the raw water impeller would never go dry.  If it did, a few seconds of "dry" operation will damage the impeller. Hope this helps...
Dale

I had the same concerns about how to put a float switch in the deep bilge of the cutter.  I eventually found and used a pneumatically operated switch.  It has a switch mechanism that is mounted under the floorboards and a plastic hose that extends to the bottom of the bilge.  When the water level rises, it turns the bilge pump on.  I am using a diaphram type bilge pump mounted near the batteries in the port seat locker.

I can't find this switch in the current West Marine catalog.  My boat is in Mexico, so I won't be able to look at who makes the switch until I go back down there in June.

This system has worked very well for about eight years.

I read with interest the discussion on bilge pump installation when first posted.
I must admit I had difficulty picturing the suggested designs. I did not respond then, because last year I'd made up a U shaped "platform" of 3/8 plywood onto which I mounted the pump and float switch. I figured when I needed to get access, I'd just lift up the platform.

Well, the assembly comes out okay, but I'm stuck with over a inch of water in the bilge because the pump and switch are higher than I'd like.
Can someone make up a rough drawing or better yet a photo of the plastic pipe with the dual pump set up? It sound a whole lot better than my contraption.

If you do, I promise not to share with you the five hours I spent yesterday relocating and installing a new shower drain pump!
Someone at the yard suggested I drill a hole in the lowest part of the boat and eliminate the need for the sump. I would have, but I forget to bring my power drill and hole saws.

If it's easier fax it to me at 203-882-9894

Thanks,
Henri Hali
S/V Windrider

I use a two pump system.  I have a large (2400 GPM?) electric pump with a float switch mounted on an epoxy-covered plywood base in the "shallow" part of the bilge just forward of the v-drive.  I would get the largest one available.

I have a diaphram type electric pump mounted on the bulkhead near the battery box (port sail locker) that has a hose going to the bottom of the bilge.  I have a strainer on the end, since I had a difficult time getting an airtight line with the strainer farther up the line.

I have a pneumatically operated bilge pump switch mounted near the v-drive.  It has a plastic hose that goes down to the bottom of the bilge and the electrical part is mounted under the floor.

I am not sure what brand or model numbers I have for the switch and "deep" bilge pump and won't be at the boat until June.  Please contact me if you need further details.

I have a few more details on my "deep" bilge pump installation.  I have a ParMax 4 pump mounted on the bulkhead inside the port seat locker, where the boat wiring harnesses terminate, etc.  It is down near the level of the battery box.  I put a bronze through hull above the water .  line, and ran the intake hose down into the bilge.  I put a strainer on the end of the hose down in the bilge.  I tried putting this higher up, but had trouble getting the pump to prime.

The switch is made by Robertshaw.  It is pneumatic and has an air hose that runs down into the bilge.  When the water rises, it turns on the pump.  The switch itself is mounted under the floor, near the opening above the v-drive.  I had to make a lead weight to hold the end of the hose on the bottom of the bilge.  There is a pump switch with a light just above the engine key switch near the companionway.

I have not been able to find any details about the pneumatic switch on line as of yet.

Please contact me if you have any questions.[attachment=0:216yv90o]Switch.jpg[/attachment:216yv90o]

Richard,
While you are searching try  "diaphragm"  switch.  That one that you show looks similar to those used in HVAC controls, and  Robertshaw manufactures HVAC and building management controls and equipment.
Dale

Thanks, Dale.  I looked a bit more for the Robertshaw switch, but did not find it yet.  I did, however, find a similar switch made by Jabsco.  It is called the Hydro Air Switch, model number 59400-0012.  

The great thing about this type of switch, for the very deep bilge in the cutter model, is that you can put the bilge pump and switch up out of the bilge.  The switch has a plastic tube that extends down into the bilge and the rising water triggers the switch via air pressure.

The Jabsco switch has a small bell-shaped fitting that is supposed to be at the lower end of the plastic air line.  It appears they intend that this fitting be screwed down.  In the cutter bilge, there is no way to reach down that far, and also nothing you would want to put screws into.

When I installed my (similar) switch, I got one or two lead fishing weights.  Using a propane torch, I melted the lead into the bottom of a tin soup can or similar.  Then I cut away the can and had a circular lead weight about 1/2 inch thick.  I used sheet metal screws to fasten the bell-shaped fitting to the lead "base."  I attached the plastic pipe to the fitting and lowered it into the bottom of the bilge.  This has worked well for eight years or so.

I can't get the bilge water down to zero, but I think it is OK to have an inch or so down there all the time.

I also have a much larger pump and float switch in the "higher" bilge, just forward of the v-drive, and under the floorboards.