One of my to do items this year is to replace the factory ports in the V-Birth. I am thinking the way to go is New Found Metals, 316 Stainless Standard port. Best I can tell, the 5" x 12" in the standard thickness should fit, and that is confirmed by the web site listings. Before I order, what say you? Do you have them? Do you like them? Am I getting the right size? What should I watch out for? What options should I get? Should I get the spring open option? How were they to install? How have they held up? Would you do it again? Should I be looking at a different Manufacture? Or... should I just sell the boat and but a Hunter? Thanks in advance for all of your freedback!
Sailing season is in the air... even in Buffalo!
Good Sailing... Dale Tanski
Well....no comment on buying a Hunter!
But....I too am in the market for some opening port windows! So keep us updated on what you find because we would be interested in buying some as well!
Rich,
I'll sell you may old ones!
I looked at the New Found Metals ones at the Annapolis show last fall and they are very nice. A 5"x12" in Stainless is $200. There are no fasteners showing on the outside ring which is cool. I also looked at ports made by Man Ship which are carried by Mariners Hardware. They were OK but I do not think they matched the quality of the NMF's and they are basically the same price. Someone on this site put new ports in up front as well as in the main cabin, but I can't find the posting or the pictures... Dale
I would like to get some of those Shinney New SS NFM opening hatches. We are considering painting our deck before we hear off Cruising and it just seems to be the right time to add new OPENING ports, but at $200 each...I'm not sure I can swing to replace them all....maybe the nonopening SS ones are cheaper?
Dale,
I have looked at a lot of the ports on the market... I too am sold on the NFM SS opening ports.... It is a big deal to me to have them through bolted and NFM is one of the few that are designed that way. If I could have anything, I would remove the two fixed ports on eac side of the Saloon and Galley & Navstation and install three (3) NFM SS Ports... So that saw five ports along the cabin side when you approached the boat. But, what a project...?
Anyway back to your question, 5 x 12 is should replace the current opening ports in the head, V-berth forward Saloon... I have spoken with several people that have installed them in their boats... There are several lessons learned.
1. Each port is a little different so make a template (per the instructions) each port.
2. Follow the recommendation installation including use of Butyl rubber caulk (a pain to clean up) and drill guide.
http://www.newfoundmetals.com/pme/stain ... lide01.htm (http://www.newfoundmetals.com/pme/stainlesssteel/slide01.htm)
3. Fill the gap between the liner & coach roof with something solid. My use 1/8-1/4" prefab fiberglass strips either glassed in or glued with 5200....
If the spring assist opening is not standard, you want to pay for the option. I also suggest the purchasing the screens at the same time.
Let us know how it goes.
Garner
I have the same dream as you Garner...replace all the ports...but each time I do the math on the calculator...I can't remove a ZERO!
I put a New Found Metals 5x12, s.s. in the head. I think I came to the conclusion that the existing cut-outs in the v-berth were slightly smaller than the one in the head (a good thing). I plan on replacing the v-berth and forward cabin portlights "someday", also using 5x12's as I'm very satisfied with it. If I recall correctly, the portlights come with either a 1" or 1.5" lip (extended). You'll definately want the shorter one as the 365 cabin (including the liner) is VERY thin as its solid glass without core. As far as the accessories, I'd recommend all of those previously mentioned; the screen with integral seal, the springs, as well as the mounting hardware since it's hard to find the equivalent s.s. hardware that size at the average hardware store. However, the biggest time-saver for me was the teak trim/spacer option. Since the cabin is so thin, you'll need a spacer of some sort and this one gets you most of the way there, with a nice clean looking finish (although I still had to add about an additional 1/4" using scrap mahogony).
As for quality... it all seems top shelf to me. I'd say the cabin wall is a far weaker link than the portlight itself.
As for cost... I can't think of anything else I've purchased for Paradox that's run under $200, and this is a massive piece of stainless! I guess the financially sobering part is when you multiply that figure by the number of ports you intend to replace.
Hi Higgins, What did you use to bed the port, and have there been any issues - leaks, etc. How long has it been installed?
Thanks.
Hi Marc,
I used butyl rubber per the instructions, which you can get at any auto parts store chain. If you've never used it before, it comes in rolls; long strips on a paper backing. You adhere it in excess around the perimeter of the port prior to seating it.
The real seal comes from the ring which fastens to the port on the outside. I bedded the ring with UV4000. Two years and no leaks.
Mike
That's good info, thanks Mike.