Hey everyone,
Anyone else out there with a universal 5444 in their 1981-1982 pearson 365/367?
The engine runs great, but loves to overheat at idle speeds. So far, this is what i have done...
-replaced impeller
-checked and replaced the raw water strainer
-replaced thermostat
-replaced coolant
-removed and cleaned heat exchanger
-cleaned out the water injection point at exhaust elbow
-checked all hoses for blockage
From what i can tell, the water pump just seems to lack the umph to get enough raw water through the heat exchanger at low rpms. There is very little water coming out of the exhaust at low rpms.
Heat is definately being exchanged as the exhaust water comes out quite hot.
Anyone else had an issue like this? I had heard rumors that there was an ungraded heat exchanger with larger ports that would solve my issue. Any experience?
Thanks,
Kevin
s/v PanDragon
1982 Pearson 367
Hull 41
Finally fixed it!! :P :P
Kevin,
I am glad hear you have solved your problem...
I would like to learn more about your modifications/changes.... It would be great to have you post the details, with pictures if possible, to the group...
I am going to look closely at Sea Dragon's configuration during this years haul out...
Thanks for the update
Garner
My W40 runs at 190....so is that too high? It is stable there but seems highter than you guys are talking about....
Check you engine manual if you have it. The manual for the Universal rates my engine at 180 degrees operating temp.
Here is a pic of how my heat exchanger is now connected. (Thanks to the sankaty website)
(//http://www.sankaty.homestead.com/files/heat_exchanger_hose_is_too_small.jpg)
Here is a picture that shows how it used to be plumbed... The water heater and the expansion tank were both plumbed in between the exhaust manifold and the heat exchanger, thus causing a ton of coolant restriction in the system.
(//http://www.sankaty.homestead.com/files/water_heater_in_series_with_heat_exchanger.jpg)
Here are the pics of how to correctly plumb your water heater off the thermostat bypass circuit. The bypass circuit always has coolant running through it. Once the thermostat opens, the majority of the hot coolant will be sent to the heat exchanger to be cooled. The bypass will still have a small amount of coolant running through it. This small amount of hot coolant flow is enough to heat your water, and not cause any excess restrictions to your heat exchanger.
Before...
(//http://www.sankaty.homestead.com/files/original_thermostat_by_pass_t_in_marked.jpg)
After...
(//http://www.sankaty.homestead.com/files/half_inch_hose_connected_to_by_pass_front_view.jpg)
All credit for this info and photos must got to //http://www.sankaty.homestead.com/
Great website with a ton of engine related upgrades and fixes.
Kevin,
I'm not sure if it is the web site or bad connection. Our latest posts are missing.
I am emailing from Tennacatita Bay where we are anchored for a couple of months and I can't beleive I am picking up Wi_Fi.
The trip down from Mazatlan was great and to answer your question about steam. It's completely gone. The harder I push it the cooler it runs and I get a lot more water out of the exhaust than before. So I beleive you may have the same V-Drive restriction I had. The new pump didn't hurt either I'm sure but I would check the drive 1st.
Thats great to hear. I will crack that sucker open tomorrow. Thanks so much for the info.