Good afternoon, We would like to know if anyone has taken off the timing gear cover on 365 with the engine mounted in place? If so could you share procedure? Ours has several pin holes where it has rusted thru. Tried wire brush followed by acetone wash down then JB weld.... lasted several hours then JB weld pealed off..2nd attempt was a whole lot more diligent with sandpaper and wire brush acetone then JB weld ..,, just would like a plan "b" of replacing cover..Thanks Jeff
We had ours repaired with a wire feed welder in place. Honestly I don't think it can be removed without pulling the engine or at least sliding it back. There is no way to get the bolt out of the pulley. I would guess it would require ~200ft lbs of torque to remove and I couldn't see how you could get the leverage to do so.
However, better minds than mine have come up with some amazing things so maybe someone can come up with an idea?
Good afternoon, I really went after cover with SS brush and acetone then applied JB weld. Not sure how long this will last but has several 2 hour runs followed by 8 hour trip down ICW and back approx 24 hrs and not one drop has leaked. Thanks for reply re welding in place... Had welder look and he was reluctant to touch it for fear of making it worse... He will be glad to fix it off the boat where he can put copper plate behind to keep heat / burn thru more controlled while welding.
Had the same issue (pin holes leaking oil). Tried the same fix (a thick epoxy) which has largely solved the issue. Pretty happy, since there were multiple holes and some larger then "pin" size. My next step if needed would be the same as yours (a good cleaning) followed by a high temp epoxy and fiberglass cloth. It would likely require two or three pieces about 2"x2"
Normally, it's the fiberglass which provides strength; the epoxy holds it in position. In this case, my thinking is that the fiberglass would help the epoxy obtain a larger surface area to grip, and allows a lower viscosity to be used, giving better bonding.
Any other thoughts?
Chuck
SV Wind Dragon
Curious to hear progress. My W40 had a rebuilt in 2004, does not leak a drop of anything, but has a very rusty timing cover from a leaky raw water pump (fixed last summer). Perkins timing covers exist, inexpensive, online. I'm pretty sure the crank pulley bolt can be undone, with a breaker bar in place, and rotating the starter to provide torque. Common procedure for car engines. I don't see why not, in this instance. Anyone try this procedure?