Since we're not going in this season, summer 2020 has been budgeted to get everything done on the boat which would have taken 2 or 3 winter units to complete here in the Northeast.
The teak cap rail was on the list. It likely hadn't been touched for 10 years by P.O. and looked disgraceful. The V-grove was a problem. It was 3/4 filled with a mix of Cetol (which is a horrible brew), teak oil layers, varnish, dirt & God knows what else. Since I'm an originalist, restoring the groove was a gotta-do. After mixed results with a carbide scraper, I turned to one of man's oldest tools... fire.
The Bernz-o-Matic, at 12"-14"waved over the grove for 20 seconds softened the goop enough so that removal with a putty knife was enjoyable. I did this before any sanding of the cap since freshly sanded teak can/will darken slightly with a miscalculation of torch technique. After goop removal, grove was sanded with folded 80 grit. Looks good.
Once the cap was sanded & prettied-up, a coat of Awlwood primer was laid on to hold it. Over the summer will build ~8 coats of gloss Awlwood topped with semi-gloss. Before the finish goes on, the cap has a good number of screws that need re-setting & re-bunging. Cheers1
I never liked that groove. I came very close to just filling it in with thickened epoxy while the rail was stripped. It woulda looked poor but to me, it is just a potential leak point and a place where gunk can collect.
The groove was a manufacturing necessity & convenience. Firstly, it allowed them to more easily torture narrower pieces of teak into following the shape of the cap plus (added benefit!) more or less hid any gap between the toe rail cap pieces. Easy maintenance by the happy owner was not on the list. That goes for the engine/galley cabinetry situation as well.
What would be the ideal replacement for that thing? I was planning on pulling it up and reseating each screw. Don't know much about Hull deck joints, as far as the best way to do things.
The teak cap rail is just orniment... a throwback to all wood hull construction. It also hides the screws which attach the deck to the hull.
If you rip it off then fiberglass the entire hull to deck joint. LOL, just a small job! See Dan/Kika's Vlog in Guatamala for how to's.
If you're going to remove the teak and fiberglass, throw in a few through bolts, then seal it off.
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=33
Before ripping things apart remember that putting it back together will conservatively take 3 times longer than you think and will cost more than you think... way more.
Amen
Dale
In order:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6hR8jYucw0&list=PLx_mGFQfb39Fgg10hfOO1IlieMtP2Hl94&index=49&t=0s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwqIy1RXh8w&list=PLx_mGFQfb39Fgg10hfOO1IlieMtP2Hl94&index=49
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOvbkQ2tdXw&list=PLx_mGFQfb39Fgg10hfOO1IlieMtP2Hl94&index=50
Quote from: S/V AMITY on May 27, 2020, 03:32:00 PM
Before ripping things apart remember that putting it back together will conservatively take 3 times longer than you think and will cost more than you think... way more.
I feel like I'm getting really good at remembering that about 5 minutes after I fully commit. :)
Quote from: SVJourney on May 31, 2020, 11:07:47 AM
In order:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6hR8jYucw0&list=PLx_mGFQfb39Fgg10hfOO1IlieMtP2Hl94&index=49&t=0s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwqIy1RXh8w&list=PLx_mGFQfb39Fgg10hfOO1IlieMtP2Hl94&index=49
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOvbkQ2tdXw&list=PLx_mGFQfb39Fgg10hfOO1IlieMtP2Hl94&index=50
His fiberglass work is one I've gone back to multiple times. Just this morning, I decided I was going to dig a little deeper into
BoatWorksUS BoatWorksToday stuff on fiberglass too.
Also: https://www.youtube.com/user/boatworkstoday/videos .
Excellent info. on many aspects of boat repair.
I do watch a lot of Boatworks Today. Andy is pretty good about teaching the ins and outs.
Sail Life too. See: https://www.youtube.com/user/madsdahlke
Yesterday removed, re-countersunk, re-installed & bunged ~70 cap rail screws. Set the bungs in varnish so they're removable if need be.
Quote from: S/V AMITY on June 01, 2020, 01:35:55 PM
Yesterday removed, re-countersunk, re-installed & bunged ~70 cap rail screws. Set the bungs in varnish so they're removable if need be.
Very nice! How do you like the result?
Results so far good.
Picture of some of the replaced bungs. The rail was wet so that's why the rail looks lumpy.
Also finally got the last of the chain plates in. Started raining while I was working below and saw some drips coming from the port side water fill fitting. Thought the fitting was cracked or the cap was leaking but upon removal of the fitting from the deck found no bedding whatsoever. Must've been leaking for a long, long time. Drip was hidden because it was behind the wood panel inside the locker. Re-bedded the fill fitting with butyl as shown in the picture.
Looking for a recommendation for good paint stripper to get paint off the cabin top. Somewhere along the line some misguided soul painted it with fizzy-can paint. Want to get it back to the gelcoat.
Picture I forgot to attach:
Gawd, I need coffee!!!
Here is the picture of the bungs:
Misc. pictures below of progress. Wound up removing all the bungs in the cockpit teak coaming, resetting screws and re-bunging. Winches removed for servicing or replacement with self-tailing. The white bumps where the winches & cleats were are temporary butyl tape plugs to keep the core dry until the Awlwood work is done and the hardware is back on.
Removed the two original plastic bilge blower air scoops on aft coaming to be replaced with Vetus mushrooms. See: https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1647377 . Advantage of this type vent is they can be screwed closed to watertight for dirty sea conditions where there's a possibility of green water on deck. Much lower profile... less for a line to fetch up on. Will also replace the existing dorade over the shower with these. Cheers!
Thanks for the pics! Looks to be nearing a good sanding and finish stage.
Wondering if you keep your boat under cover all year or is that just a winter cover? We are going to be looking at winter covering our boat which isn't done much around here in the PNW. What are you using for a cover?
Wayne
My location is US northeast so we generally cover for the winter. I've left the winter cover on so far because I've had the hatches off for re-working. As soon as she's watertight again on deck in a week or so, cover will come off. Hot as **** working in there with the cover trapping the summer heat. Cover is shrink wrap which only extends down to just above the cap rail (see attached) for good ventilation. In the fall will have a new shrink cover of the same configuration put on.
When/if you do cover the boat make sure there's plenty of free-air circulation otherwise you will develop mold below.
Cockpit coaming started. Starting with 60 grit and will work down to 220. Big chunk of the job time is eaten up by the v-grooves.
Pushpit, cleats & pad eyes off. As measured from where the cleat bases sat, total teak erosion about 1/16"... not bad for a 40 yr. old boat. Primary sanding with 60 grit working down to 220. Will lay 8 to 10 coats of Awlwood before remounting hardware. Replacing all mounting screws. Schaefer still makes the same pattern cleats so will be replacing the originals. Pictures below.
One more:
That's some strange looking green water you got under yer boat!
Yup, weedy bottom but haven't dragged yet as of this writing. Ground tackle made by Brownell.