Hello all,
I recently started the motor up after 3 months of sitting (this because the diver was apparently too busy to clean my inlets.. Enough sob story). Well a leak from the pump that i had not noticed, had corroded the studs that come out of the timing manifold (these studs according to the westerbeke manual are attached to a "sea water pump mounting plate" anf pass through the timing manifold). The leak is most likely due to the shaft wobbling because the bearings wore out and corroded. The wobble opens a gap between the lip seal and the shaft allowing pressurized water to squirt through the discharge holes on the pump ( to keep salt water away from the engine).
Basically I need to remove the raw water pump (of I can get those Damn corroded nuts off) to reach and replace these bearings and the internal lip seal. And while I am at it I need to replace the studs before they get any more corroded. (Yes I sprayed the crap out of em with pb blaster)
Does anyone have expirence removing these or similar studs?
Does anyone know where to find these studs so that I can replace them?
Anything helps and im on a bit of a time and budget crunch
Thanks all!
Generic to remove studs:
Spin on 2 nuts onto the same stud. Then tighten them against each other using 2 wrenches. Then attempt to remove the stud by turning only the inward nut.
Or buy a stud remover.
I didn't put them back in. Bolts are fine for replacement. Or you can buy the studs almost anywhere. Remember, they are not marine, they are industrial tractor parts.
The bearings and lip seal. You can pay big bucks for a kit for a Sherwood pump, or you can take them into your local bearing supply store where they can match them up by measuring them. Its easy to knock them out. Lightly coat the bearings races with blue Loctite before you reinstall them.
There is another thread here somewhere (maybe search by keyword "Sherwood"? Where I posted the part numbers from Timken that I got from Florida Bearing and Supply. I think I paid about $20 for bearings and a seal. Get a spare set while you are at it.
I bought a roll of gasket paper from Napa and cut my own gaskets to save cash and have spares. That roll of gasket paper also saved myself and a few friends while out cruising.
And FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! Please use the pump alignment process from Supplement 10 of the Westerbeke manual when you reinstall the pump. Your pump won't last very long if you don't. (learn from my fail) That should also be posted up here on the site under the tech stuff if you don't have the book.
Pump alignment here: http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1907.0
Found the other thread:
"The raw water pump that is cheapest is the Sherwood G65. There are rebuild kits available online, part # 12221, but it is cheapest to just remove the 2 bearings and the seal and get new ones matched from a bearing supply house. Cost me $15 bucks from Florida Bearing in FT Lauderdale.
I got Timken 471466 seal and NTN SC0228LLUC3/L627 bearings"
Hopefully you have the G65 pump....https://www.pumpvendor.com/Sherwood_G65_G-65.html
Wonderful!!
Thank you for the help! I will for sure do the alignment process as well as the depth/position of the two shafts.
Unfortunately I have the original pump from Westerbeke, but they have the parts on their website for sale so at least that will be an option.
I sprayed the studs with PB blaster and the next day a mechanic came and too them out without too much issue... which is a surprise because of they way they look (will post a photo later!)
Thanks, I will let you know how it turns out!
Photos of getting it off:
Also this is a sherwood pump but the origional model... Getting replacement bearings, gaskets, lip seal, and shaft since the shaft got bunged up getting the old bearings off..
Hopefully will be back up in no time!
That actually is the Sherwood G65.
I found the pump model on the front plate (hard to read because of the corrosion)
The pump is a F85-01 KHD... Does anyone know what the difference is on these pumps? Not sure which parts to get.. or if they are all the same
Thanks!!