Hi Everyone,
Anyone have a good technique for partially lifting the engine? Need to raise the rear of the engine (which faces the bow) in preparation for changing the rear seal. Want to leave the aft engine mounts attached, if possible to avoid realignment issues. Very grateful for any suggestions.
Jim
WalkAbout
365 Sloop
I've loved the suggestion of sliding an un inflated basketball under the motor then pumping it up
You're probably going to have to remove the engine from the aft mounts or remove the aft mounts from the engine beds. Not doing that will put a lot of twisting strain on those aft mounts/engine bed as the fwd end of the engine pivots upward. Whatever method you use (hoist, inflatable ball, etc...), watch out for gravity. With the fwd end of the engine up in the air, as soon as the aft set of engine mounts lifts off the the engine bed (or engine off the studs of the engine mounts), the engine will come scooting forward. When you raise the fwd part of the engine, gravity will pull it forward (downward) until the fwd end gets higher than the after end. If using a ball, make sure the engine is secured from moving forward/downward and the ball does not roll.
On my first attempt at removing the engine, I was unaware of the dynamics. I removed the nuts holding the engine brackets to the engine mount studs. I lifted the engine using a chain hoist from the boom. Forward end raised until horizontal with after end. Once the fwd end was free of the engine mount studs (mounts were still secured to engine beds), gravity pulled at the after mounts and the engine came crashing forward once it was high enough to slip off the top of the after mount studs.
I had a block wire rope wrapped around the fwd end of the engine (fastened to the 2x4's supporting the cockpit with 1/8 rope frapping), but the engine slipped pretty quickly, in the blink of an eye.
I actually got my hand stuck between the cable and the engine. I had to cut through the rope frapping to free up the cable. my fingers kinda hurt for a while after that.
I have done the same to replace the rear main seal. I blocked both sides or the companion way on the deck put a heavy wall inch and a half pipe across and used a chainfall. Removed the forward engine mount nuts, I didn't remove the rear mount nuts. Disconected driveshaft, transmission,bellhousing cleaned every thing did a very careful job with the new seal ( Perkins new seal) Put everything back togeather .I didn't have any leaks in the 4-108 for about fifty hours then the seal started leaking again. Looking back on that project the only thing I would have differenty is to use an after market silacone seal. Allen
All, thanks for the ideas and the cautions. Someone mentioned a u-shaped bracket that slide over the companionway threshold/bridge deck-I stopped at a welding shop and they are putting it together for me out of 2" square stock with a gusset to support the load. I will report back. Have decided to go with the Foley Graphite seal barring any negative feedback on the product. I already understand the negative reputation Foley has, but the seal sounds like a possible better solution. Wiould love to hear of anyone elses experieince with their seal solution.
Jim