I have recently experienced some serious bad weather. 20ft swells and 38knt. winds crossing from Havana to Galviston. One concern I had was a considerable amount of groaning between the bulkheads and the boat hull. It sounded as though the bulkheads were loose in the moulding groove inside the boat. Several reports I have read about the noise inside sailboats lead me to believe this is not uncommon. Are the bulkheads supposed to be loose or has the bonding between the two components finally give up the ghost, (1982 367 cutter) in which case can anyone recommend a suitable jointing compound. I was considering the west system epoxy and a high adhesive filler compound?? However if they should be loose is there a lubricant I should apply to reduce the friction ?
The bulkheads are usually glassed to the hull with polyester resin and heavy woven roving, but only on one side. The entire interior was assembled outside the hull, then lowered in, making only one side of most bulkheads inaccessible.
The bulkheads usually have a 1/2" to 1" space between the edge and the hull; they do not contact the hull, only the glass tabbing contacts the hull. They should be secured back to the hull if they have come loose; they help the hull keep its shape. I've noticed that the upper end of the bulkheads (up under the bulkwark an side decks) there are typically spots that are not glassed because they are tough to get to.
The groaning could be interior cabinetry rubbing on the fiberglass liner, rather then the bulkheads coming loose from the hull.
Thank you. You have confirmed my suspicions. I have recently helped a friend re-tab her Morgan 38 which was a other reason for my suspicions. I cannot see any tab failure in my case but will investigate further and reinforce where I can. The V berth bulkhead could be felt moving within the inner liner slot just beside the cabin door below the port side deck, though this movement was microscopic (less than 0.5mm, just peceptible when touching both surfaces but definitely audibly noticeable) Ebb Tide has become home so I have plenty of time to do a thorough job rather than what can be achieve in a weekend. Thank you once again. Steve.
Check the small vertical rod just behind the mast. Make sure it is still connected on both ends and under some load. It should kinda twang like a guitar string if it is loaded. The tension rod keeps the deck from moving up in the center especially if you have run your halyards back. It also keeps the deck in place when the hull sides move in while under way. If the rod is no longer connected or way to loose, the deck will bulge up as you frolic through the waves and the hull sides move in and out. Just a thought...
Dale
In the manual on my cutter it says to only slightly tighten the rod, not put it under high tension.
Bad advice given here should not be tolerated. I would suggest that before giving advice one should really take the time to investigate the question.
I quote from the Pearson 367 Manufacturers Manual.
Figure 3.1-2 Dated - Jan. 5, 1981
"Your boat is equipped with a tie rod which runs from the mast collar at the deck partner to the mast step."
"The tension should never be over tightened. The nut on deck should be finger tight with the boat at rest and the rigging properly adjusted."
I believe this would apply to the P-365 as well. Maybe someone with a 365 manual can look it up.
So... the manual says "The tension should never be over tightened. The nut on deck should be finger tight with the boat at rest and the rigging properly adjusted."
Questions -
What exactly is the definition of a properly adjusted rigging? For what wind and sea conditions?
Are the halyards run back? At what tension are they at? At what temperature would one check for proper adjustment?
Is one standing on the coach roof (applying compression) when attempting to turn the nut with ones fingers?
If the nut can be turned with ones fingers, logic would indicate the nut would be able to turn on its own to its own accord changing the definition of proper adjustment.
I installed a lock nut on the tension rod at the bottom when I replaced my mast step, and I installed a nylock nut on top of the collar. I tensioned my rod enough so that it thumps when you pluck it (no idea what the tension in pounds is). I know that the 3/8" diameter rod will not pull the deck down due to the internal bulkheads and it will never pull the mast up off of the keel, and my boat doesn't squeak.
Everything in moderation.
Dale
When I re installed my tensioning rod I adjusted it until the clearance under the head of the bolt at the top of the rod that passes through the mast collar went to zero. From there I think the proper technical term is to snug-it-up. To gauge this more accurately I put a metal washer and a rubber washer under the head of the tensioning rod head. The rubber compresses which is something you can see. Oh and it also keeps water from leaking down that hole.
However, none of this will do a bit of good if the balsa core in the deck house has rotted and turned to mush from water leaking in around the base of the mast for 30 some years. Once the core is gone the outer fiberglass skin will collapse and water will puddle up in that area. Without a solid anchor to the top of the deckhouse, under sail the tensioning rod will flex the top of the deckhouse and eventually crack the thin outer fiberglass skin which has no strength.
On my Pearson I had to cut the skin out around the mast and glass in a sheet of plywood where the tensioning rod goes.
Pete 365 Ketch
Once again Guys Thank you for the advice. My Rod is definitely slack but before I tension it I may attempt to feed some epoxy into the upper bulkhead grooves. The Jury is still out on this one. Maybe I should tension the rod and see what effect it has first. Thanks.