I'm a little confused about something, probably caused by inexperience on my part.
Please correct my logic if it is faulty.
When reinstalling the V drive and/or engine, it is wise to replace the flanges on the shafts, esp. the propeller shaft flange, right?
So if this is true, the propeller shaft flange should be replaced and when that is done, the prop should be taken to somewhere to get trued up and to get the prop flange squared up on the prop.
Once you get that prop with attached new flange back from the shop, how do you get the shaft back in the boat without removing the just-installed/squared prop flange? If one removes the new flange to push the prop in from the stern, how does one know that the new prop flange is reinstalled square to the prop? Has anyone installed a prop from inside the boat?
When aligning the two shafts, which do you do first, transmission to V drive or V drive to prop? it seems like one should align the v drive to the propeller, when that is done and v drive is solidly fastened to the boat, the engine is adjusted to align the, is it the jack shaft, to the v drive (using Pete's Alignment Hacks). Is that the correct sequence?
So now for the prop/vdrive alignment question. I understand that the max gap between the prop shaft flange and the gear flange on the v drive is 0.003". Instructions say to make sure there is a max of 0.003" gap between the two flanges. So, with the prop flange secured to shaft, butt the flanges together and run the feeler gauge around the gap. If the gap anywhere around the butt is 0.003" or less, it's good, insert bolts and tighen up. If any one point measured is > 0.003" adjust v drive alignment bolts to bring alignment < 0.003".
How does that sound? How screwed up am I?
I won't be doing this anytime soon because I have a V drive (pulled today) and engine (pulled yesterday) to inspect and clean up,but I want my brain to start working on this in the background.
Thanks
I replaced my shaft with a double tapered shaft years ago. It was about the same price as matching a coupling to the shaft and I never worry about centering it. They also make split couplings by the way.
Here is a link for a double tapered shaft.
http://www.elberts.com/driveshaft.pdf (http://www.elberts.com/driveshaft.pdf)
Thanks Deo,
I'll look at that double-tapered shaft if I end up replacing mine.
I just pulled our shaft to do the shaft log hose, and I think we going to go ahead and replace the shaft now that it's out. It wasn't in very good shape, a small wobble and some signs of wear under the cutless bearing. The double tapered shaft seems to be the right way to go, but I left the shaft and coupling 3 hours away at the boat. Do you have the dimensions for the bolt circle, length and bolt diameter? We have the stock RV 10 Pearson special Vee drive, so if yours I'd different, that would be good to know.
Thanks.
I don't have the measurements available right now but I think it's 5 inches. On the Pilothouse it mates up to the flange on the Velvet Drive
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l505/banjoband/rv10flange.jpg)
The RV-10 flange OD is 2.9". The 3 hole diameter as best as I can measure it is 2.2" and the pilot is 1.25"
Pete
Thanks a lot Pete: I sent an email to Walter to see if I could get the print interface dimensions. I hate to base it off measurements or an old part because errors creep in with rust/wear over time and measurement issues. My first communication by email with Walter basically just said it isn't a standard because it's too small. I'm continuing to try. I can send Elbert's my old coupling, but that means a 6 hr r/t drive to get the shaft and coupling and mail it and it's basing it on old somewhat rusty parts. Ours actually seems to be on pretty good shape, but it seems to make since to go ahead and replace it with the shaft while we are there. Shipping to and from Alaska isn't exactly cheap or fast too.
The Engineers at Walter don't use decimal so here are the flange dimensions in fractions. I used dial calipers to make these measurements and they where within .003" of these fractions.
Hub dia. = 2 7/8"
pilot dia. = 1 1/4"
3 hole bolt dia. 2 3/16"
bolt hole dia. = 5/16"
Incidentally that 2 7/8" hub diameter is a max dimension for the coupler to clear the housing on the RV-10.
You would think the folks at Walter Machine would be used to answering your question over the phone. Pretty sure the solid non-tappered flange (bored and keyed to 1 1/8" to your shaft) is a Buck Algonquin part.
Here is the specification for the "Walter" Flange Coupler that is built by Buck Algonquin
http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/item/transmission-couplers-4/transmission-couplers/50mc2875w1125
I noticed that the bolt diameter is called out as 2 3/16". I cleaned my dial calipers and changed my measurment technique and can come within .0025" of the 2.1875". (screw 5/16 bolt into one of the flange holes and measure OD from shaft to shaft then subtract half diameters of each shaft and multiply by 2)
They also call out the bolt hole diameter as 3/8" which is pretty sloppy for a 5/16 thread body diameter.
So this too fails to clear things up entirely. Pete