Since we will be replacing our shaft, rebuilding/replacing the v-drive and re-aligning everything, it only makes sense to replace the engine mounts as well. I can see how to raise the forward end of the engine (the drive shaft end). I am mystified as to how to get enough leverage on the aft (belt end). It there a workable way to do so?
Pearson puts the motors in backwards, facing aft. All thanks to the V-drive. So the end of the motor with the belts and stuff is the front of the motor. Just like in a car.
So like I was saying 5/8" all-thread will make a handy compact screw jack that you can use to lift the front. The other bit of advise is to crank the front left and rear right mounts up all the way and remove rear left mount with a come-along. Then rock the motor with the screw jack to remove and replace the front right. Repeat this procedure to rock the motor the other way to get the front left mount.
And never try to lift the motor with the shaft attached.
Can't help but think that's there is something lurking in your Universal M50 motor drive train like a 2:1 reduction in your Hurth gearbox and unknown ratio in the V-drive. It all seems to point to a questionable repower that you need to evaluate before spending any money.
Thanks Pete. Not sure why you are thinking I have a Universal M50. It is definitely a Westerbeke 40-107 or 108 with a Paragon hydraulic transmission and a 2:1 Walter V drive.
It looks like it might work to run up the adjusting nuts on oposite corners and rock the engine enough to get the mounts out and the new ones in, the repeat the process on the other diagonal.
When I get to it, I will take pictures and post the process. I am glad to have your proceedure for aligning the shafts.
Not sure what I was thinking. I was pretty sure that you bought Leo's old boat, "Sol". That boat was re-powered with a 1981 W40.
Yes, we have Hull#14, formerly Sol. Do you have details as to the repower? She is 1981. Any insights as to being repowered with a 1981 engine would be helpful. Best guess by Lenny was that there are about 1200 hours on the engine. It starts great and runs smoothly. I plan to have the injectors rebuilt and a thorough evaluation from a trusted diesl mechanic. Thanks,
Ok all, I need some advice on the logistics for replacing engine mounts, rebuilding/replacing the v-drive and replacing the shaft.
It seems that all of the alignment is best done with the boat in the water. What I am thinking of doing while the boat is still in the water is to pull the v-drive, change the engine mounts, spiff up the primary drive with paint, re-install the v-drive and align the engine to the v-drive.
Then haul to replace the shaft, cutlass bearing, etc and then re-align everything once she is back in the water.
Should I expect to have the new shaft, PSS seal, etc be aligned well enough to putt from the lift to our slip for fine tuning?
I really appreciate the brain trust on this site and am open to any insight.
You will be fine if you do a good alignment in the yard and a final alignment at your slip. The boat will have a slightly different shape in the water and may not need any further alignment, but it probably will.
Boaters always think the engine is the weak link in the drive train. Its usually everything but the motor that fails. Heat exchangers must be disassembled and cleaned and a no drive train rebuild is complete without a new damper plate. I you have been running for a unspecified period of time with misalignment that damper plate and the splines on your Paragon may be hammered. I like the high deflection plates from R&D marine up in Seattle.
But if your Diesel mechanic is going to evaluate your motor, I would say a "leak down test" yields to most conclusive results.
Ok folks, I have the drive train out and the nuts off of the engine mounts only to realize that the bell housing mounts are aluminum with 30 year old STEEL mount bolts that have seized to the mounts. The adjusting nuts won't budge. Other than the usual PB Blaster and heat, any suggestions as to breaking them loose? I figure I might remove the bolts holding the mounts to the cradle and lifting the engine enough to be able to apply some 'hammer pressure'. Ideas?