washed her? worked on the engine? rounded Cape Horn? this is the thread to share it in!
Yesterday I started removing headliner and archaic cabin lights. Today after work will be more of the same
Nice topic...
I am adding ash wood paneling to the V-berth. I am finished with the port side and if all goes well I will start the starboard side this weekend.
Dale Tanski
Hull 40 Ketch
Maruska
Quote from: Maruska on October 02, 2015, 05:09:03 PMI am adding ash wood paneling to the V-berth.
Nice! What led you to choose Ash?
Today I'll be removing the rest of the headliner
Biggest problem with the headliner is where to put it when it is out. Easy on those brass screws. I have damaged several over the years, the best way to replace them is to remove some hidden in the cabinetry, replacing the hidden screws with stainless.
I'll post my project later. :)
Varnishing the Stbd toerail before the rain sets in til spring. Having no known woodworking skills, finally got the courage to replace a PO-broken section of outboard cap this week and now refinishing the whole length. It is looking serviceable, but a pro would be embarrassed. Which brings up a question: The small gap between the two cap pieces--seems like varnish will fill it up okay, or is it supposed to have a bead of polysulfide a la teak decking?
I've been getting some oil seepage that I thought was coming from the rear seal so I started tackling it this week.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/redzroadster/W1.jpeg)
I did find some loose springs in the damper plate, but the seal was fine. I had replaced it 21 years and 3000 hours ago.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/redzroadster/W4.jpeg)
There was one bolt that started to round (12 pt socket) even when I switched to a 6 pt socket, so hit it with heat, PB Blaster and ran to the Auto Parts store and got these sockets, worked Great!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ALT1/941322/N0743.oap?ck=Search_N0743_1121993_-1&pt=N0743&ppt=C0195 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ALT1/941322/N0743.oap?ck=Search_N0743_1121993_-1&pt=N0743&ppt=C0195)[/size]
Quote from: S/V Deo Volente on October 03, 2015, 11:48:59 AM
Biggest problem with the headliner is where to put it when it is out. Easy on those brass screws. I have damaged several over the years, the best way to replace them is to remove some hidden in the cabinetry, replacing the hidden screws with stainless.
headliners went into the basement (aka the forepeak) Good tip on the screw replacement - thanks!
(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae195/cpmgordon/pearson/fwd1_zpshqhxzua8.jpg)
Quote from: Skookster on October 03, 2015, 12:00:48 PM
Varnishing the Stbd toerail before the rain sets in til spring. Having no known woodworking skills, finally got the courage to replace a PO-broken section of outboard cap this week and now refinishing the whole length. It is looking serviceable, but a pro would be embarrassed.
Hi Skookster, I guarantee that your finished outboard cap is a better job than I could have done. I'm a great carpenter as long as I can hide it behind gyproc. Can you post a photo of the job?
Quote from: S/V Deo Volente on October 03, 2015, 07:18:21 PMI did find some loose springs in the damper plate, but the seal was fine. I had replaced it 21 years and 3000 hours ago.
*thunbs up* how many hours does your Westie have on it?
See if these came through...I got a little uneven with the planer but happy enough for a first go at this. The key for the step scarf joint was an oscillating multitool. It is one handy bugger.
https://41.media.tumblr.com/5e73e56366fb4e252ea1e5c80615231b/tumblr_nvqastGF251uiq22ao1_1280.jpg
https://41.media.tumblr.com/f1b30351ae22bc03099535cfb95059f5/tumblr_nvqastGF251uiq22ao2_1280.jpg
then
https://41.media.tumblr.com/abe5e0740a464517bb25fedc9486e332/tumblr_nvqastGF251uiq22ao4_1280.jpg
and finally:
https://41.media.tumblr.com/d7ed1c9087993100ba4d7443bcb23fe3/tumblr_nvqastGF251uiq22ao3_1280.jpg
only 3 more coats to go!
Dove to scrape the hull. First cleaning since our haulout in December and the hull was mostly clean except usual problem areas. I'll probably try to make a habit of it; next time I'll replace a zinc.
was in Revelstoke BC (http://herberthouse.ca/home/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/revy.jpg) from Sunday to last night but headed for the ship this afternoon with a load of 12"x12"x24" wooden blocks to use as supports when I jack the roof off the pilothouse.
I'm interested in seeing that, especially around the back bulkhead. Are you planning to lift the frame also?
I am curious to know why you are removing the roof of your pilothouse. I have pilothouse hull # 22 in Thunder Bay Ontario....... Brian....
I don't have a Pilothouse, but it would seem logical that you will never have a better opportunity to pull the motor than you will with the roof off. Yeah I'm curious too. Pete
I don't want to derail the thread, so I'll get into the details in my project log (http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1441.0), but in a nutshell I need to re-seal the seam between the roof and the wrap-around window frame :)
Spent three hours aboard today. Attached a few 3" nylon cleats to stanchions, for fenders & flag halyards. Pulled the Bank #2 batteries out to check 'em over, clean out the box & add new tie-down straps with quick-release buckles. Then after the skies opened up, I marked the interior locations of all the window seal rain drips. Picked up a Pela 6000 for changing engine oil, since it hasn't been done in....a while.
For once I did absolutely NO boat work today! Slacker huh?
Did meet another 365 today here in Neifu inTonga. Loni and Bona on Good News. They are not registered here although Loni says he checks here for answers to problems. Anyways, its always great to meet another owner and share our boat ideas, even if its just how to store all the junk we "need" for long distance cruising.
This was the 6th 365 we've been on. Its amazing how different they all are. 40 years of owner improvements change the face of things.
Wayne
Quote from: #23 on October 03, 2015, 10:22:26 PM
*thunbs up* how many hours does your Westie have on it?
It's got about 3,350, in that time I've had the injectors rebuilt twice as maintenance, rebuilt the injection pump because of a leak, replaced the water pump twice (leak), and rebuilt the fuel pump and replaced the thermostat as preventative maintenance.
Wow!! Two 365s in the Neifu Tonga harbor at the same time. Maybe I really do need to push myself to head west from Grenada this January.
Dirk
Washed her inside and out!
Worked out a Fresh Water Flush System for the new Suzuki 4HP Dinghy Motor.
.... (aka a bucket of water tied up from the bottom -- worked great!...)
Preparing to "Camp Out" this weekend with the Grand Kids!
Finished rigging the topping lift for the (original) spinnaker pole.
Enjoyed the awesome weather here on Upper Gulf Coast of Florida
put some 2" tubular webbing (http://www.rei.com/product/472049/bluewater-2-climb-spec-tubular-webbing) on the bow & stern docklines for chafe guard and set up some better springlines
Scored on another spare 2:1 Walter V Drive for $100. I'll be parting this one out for the gear set and pinion shaft and coupler yoke. Fingers crossed that they have low wear.
Bolted up the transmission, set the engine back down and put on the winter cover.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/redzroadster/cover.jpeg)
I finally ripped out the redundant port side neutral buss and 30 feet of meaningless white wire that Pearson wired to and from the port side aft bulkhead.
35+ plus years on I figure all the Pearson's out there have an AC panel installed on the starboard side. Since the AC panel has its own neutral buss this cleaned up a lot of wiring that otherwise goes roundtrip through the engine compartment. Has anyone else questioned why Pearson did it this way?
In the process I traced out some dead end wiring to the head and got all my AC outlets GFI protected. Yikes, I had a 2 wire outlet with no ground wire.
I rigged up a reference anode and dropped it in the water and went around with a voltmeter and measured my cathodic protection. I found a couple of un-bonded bronze through hulls that were running at +.175 V. The protected bronze was all at -.618 V. This is the ideal voltage for a polyester hull. I also discovered that the marina shore ground was running at -.40 volts, thus making my galvanic isolator a real necessity.
All I need to do now is edit these changes to my master schematic.
today I demounted and pulled the 35 y/o factory speaker wire out from the bulkheads. The wire's canvas sheathing was coated in some sort of shellac that crumbles to black dust as soon as it's moved. I think we can live without the quadraphonic cassette stereo and will likely just use a Bluetooth system off MP3s instead.
I started scraping old botto, paint today. After an hour my drop cloth weighed as much as our chihuahua
redid the rat's nest of bilge pump float wiring, both waterproofing the connections and extending the float deeper into the bilge
Started putting Sea Dragon away for the winter:
- Had one last sail of the season then I ---
- Changed V-drive, Transmission, & Engine Oil / filter
- Changed fuel filters and cleaned crap out the Racor
- Bled the Red Beast
- Found the source of diesel fuel in the bilge - fuel tank leak NO - Lift pump leaking YES
sourcing new lift pump - Yea!
- Drained & winterized the systems on board
- Removed the sails - 1 at home, 1 out for repairs,
and 1 new sail on order
- Had the rigging inspected and tuned - Yea!
- Found two chain plates that need to be replaced - Boo!
- Finished design of new battery bank - storage & circuits
- Pulled another 5 lbs of orphan wiring
- Created a two page winter to-do-list (will likely grow to three
pages then shrink to 1 1/2 before I throw in the towel and launch)
Sea Dragon will actually go from water to land the last week of Dec
Garner