I hauled the boat to redo the bottom paint, took measurements and did some thru hull work.
Pictures Dowload: http://bodylens.com/boat/Haulout.zip
or annotated photobucket: http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/scherzoja/library/Haulout2014?sort=3&page=1
- I removed and sealed off 8 below-the-waterline thru hulls [removed: two cockpit, one domestic saltwater intake, one head/washdown intake, one generator intake, two PO-plugged thru hulls (probably old depth and speed), one holding tank output (going to composting head)]. I left the following thru hulls: original head intake (now AC intake), original galley sink, original engine intake, original head direct-overboard
- Added two new below-the-water thru hulls (generator intake, domestic salt water intake)
- Replaced three deck scupper waterline plastic thru hulls with bronze.
- Sealed one deck scupper drain at waterline (it was in way of future quarterberth).
- Replaced two plastic propane thru hulls with bronze
- Replaced generator exhaust plastic thru hull with bronze
- Ground out and filled 7 half-dollar x 3/8" deep blisters
- popped 40 - 80 small gelcoat blisters on port side and coated with epoxy
- Replaced transducer fairing block with one I made out of polyester resin and fiberglass
- Moved the two cockpit scupper thru hulls to above-the-waterline location and sealed the holes (part of the 8 filled holes)
- Repacked rudder stuffing box.
- Washed the hull to get tanic acid off
- painted the hull with 4 coats of hard bottom paint (3 gallons total)
While out, I measured the following:
Where ever there was a hole through the hull, it was solid glass, no core.
Hull thickness at cockpit drains: 0.90"
Hull thickness on centerline 12" fwd of keel: 1 5/8"
Hull thickness across from head door about 12" up from turn of bilge (interior measurement): .75"
Hull thickness admidship at turn of bilge: 5/8"
Cockpit sole thickness: 1", mostly end grain balsa
For the following, boot strip is painted, not sure where original boot strip is, but probably in same place.
Current waterline is 3" - 4" below bottom of boot stripe, amidship.
Measurements might be off by a couple of inches. Although the boat was sitting level, the ground was packed gravel had some low/high spots.
Bottom of boot stripe to bottom of rudder: 54"
Bottom of boot stripe to transducer: 36"
Transducer to bottom of keel: 36"
Bottom of boot stripe to bottom of keel: 70"
Bottom of boot stripe down to rudder post entry: 12"
Bottom of boot stripe to top of rudder (aft tip) 6"
Max keel width across bottom: 10"
Bottom of boot stripe to current waterline: 3"
Transducer: 12" fwd of keel/hull intersection on center line
Pearson used silicone for thru hull sealant (yep, that's right silicone underwater). Silicone on the seacock flange inside and silicone on the thru hull outside. This is an '82 367
Seacock flange bolts are thru bolted through 1/4" square fiberglass backing plate, but not through the hull, they are bronze hex bolts. The backing block was glued to hull with resin, probably polyester. At least that is what it smelled like when I ground it off. I remove most of them with hammer and wonderbar, gently. Only one, port cockpit seacock backing plate had to be ground off.
Blisters: only about 7 blisters in the laminate. All ranged in diameter from about 1/2" to 1". One was about 2".
The port side had many small gelcoat bubbles with a blue layer between two white gelcoat layers (bottom paint, white gelcoat, blue layer, white gel coat, laminate). Starboard side did not have as much this layer. Yard manager hypothesizes that the release agent on port side was inadequate and the blue stuff is faring compound used to smooth out rough surface caused when this boat was popped out of mold and some gelcoat stayed in mold. These bubbles only were in the outer layer of white gelcoat, not through the blue and underlying white.