Is the standard sea water pump for the W 40 a Sherwood F-85? I believe the Westerbeke part # is 16423?
Cheers,
Randy
Randy: I haven't been able to cross index between Westerbeke and Sherwood, but I can tell you we have a Sherwood G65. It's currently on the work bench in front of me. Couldn't get the impeller out while it was on the boat, so we took some advice from Journey and just pulled the pump.
The cover plate is stamped G65. The F85 appears to be very similar, but has 1/2 inch inlet and outlet ports instead of 3/4 on the G65. The major rebuild kit is the same part number 12221 from sherwood/pentair.
Our G65 cover plate is held on with 4 countersunk screws, but the F85 drawing shows hex head bolts.
Our G65 is bushed down to 1/2 and we have 1/2 in hose inlets and outlets. The mounting hole pattern to the engine is the same, 1.33 inches off center. Here are the prints.
http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/FileAttachments/Marine-Distribution/en-us//Literature/MPG_F85.pdf
http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/FileAttachments/Marine-Distribution/en-us//Literature/MPG_G65.pdf
Thanks. Mine is the 85. Instead of rebuilding, I am going to purchase a new pump. Do you have any suggestions ?
Randy,
The Sherwood replacement impeller part number for the Westerbeke W40 installed in Sea Dragon is 09959K...
http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/en-us/Products/Engine+Cooling+Pumps/PerkinsEngineUS/G65_Detail/Related+Products.htm
I am not sure if this helps or causes more confusion.
Garner
hmmmmm?
Randy,
This guy had one for sale:
http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1233.0
Offer $50 if he still has it and you will be many miles ($$) ahead of the game.
Cheers!
Wayne
I bought my impeller and gaskets from pumpvendor.com it's limited experience, just one purchase, but they sent the right parts and it was on time to Alaska. In retrospect, I wish I had gotten the kit with the new bearings and seal. My cover plate is a little worn too, but probably ok for a while. They say on their site that Sherwood isn't making the F85 anymore, so they sell a G65 with bushings instead.
You can get either just the impeller kit, the minor kit, the minor kit with bearings and seal, or the major kit. The major is about half the price of the pump, $269, but has everything except the shaft and the housing. The whole pump is $566.
Dale also sells stuff like that, so you might check with him. I don't know if they carry impellers.
My west marine paper catalog has a full size impeller sizing chart, and you can use that to match the impeller.
I'm waffling about going ahead and rebuilding now that I have it in the bench, or just putting it back in with a new impeller and waiting until next time to rebuild. Pressing out the bearings and the seal is getting into it a bit much and it was working fine, just hadn't had a new impeller in a while. I think I may have another beer instead, while I consider it and take the studded tires off the cars. Maybe just the beer and fix the dingy.......
I have been following this thread with interest. I can supply the G65 Sherwood pump as Garner's link shows, which fits the 4-107 or 4-108 Perkins block complete for $480.00. As an aside, the impellers that Garner referenced are $22 for the kit.
Shipping would be what ever it costs to get it to you.
Hope this helps...
Dale Tanski
Obersheimer Sailor Supply
Dale....I am going to change my impeller. I believe mine is labeled F85. When you say 22 for the kit, what does that include besides the impeller. I want to replace the cover plate also, do you have them? How much is approximate shipping to Hernando Beach, fl...34667?
Billy
Hey folks,
I am reviving this thread because my problem relates directly. Last spring I rebuilt my Sherwood pump with new bearings, water seal and impeller. Per the tech bulletin I used Prussian blue to assure that the shaft coupling did not bottom out. Everything seemed fine till last week when I arrived at the haulout crane where I typically stick the water intake hose in antifreeze till it appears in the exhaust discharge, then shut engine down. But it wouldn't draw antifreeze nor raw water. Since then I have checked for obstructions throughout the system-- clear. Pulled the cover plate-- impeller fine. Pulled the pump-- everything fine. Turned engine over to make sure the pump drive shaft was turning and coupler was undamaged-- fine. I was stumped until I did a rough check of coupler protrusion versus drive shaft protrusion and found they barely made contact. Then I noticed some slight peening on the edges of the coupler slot. My guess is that the coupler never mated more than a few thousanths, at least since I did the rebuild last spring.
The coupler extends about 70 thousanths less from the base of the pump than the spec sheet indicates. Can't find any info on the extension of the drive shaft.
Now my questions:
Did I press the bearings too far onto the pump shaft? I went right to the coupling. Can I press the shaft back out far enough to adequately engage the drive shaft?
Or can I put a spacer between the coupling and the bearing?
Have I somehow forced the drive shaft back toward the fuel pump, and if so, how do I determine that and how to fix it.
The service bulletin talks about not bottoming out the coupling but I can find no mention of the opposite, which is my problem. It also talks about using up to four gaskets to separate the coupling, but I would be better off using NO gaskets, just Permatex.
I await the good counsel from the Westerbeke diesel gurus out there. All thoughts and ideas welcome.
Jim
I don't recall seeing this post and there have not been any replies, so I am just getting it back up in case something went wrong. I am very anxious for advice. Jim