I've got a leaking fuel tank that I need to either repair or replace. I've been reading and thinking about this and would like to lay out the alternatives, as I see them, and ask for suggestions and advice.
I could repair the tank. I've seen several postings that suggest that fuel tanks can be repaired. There is a Good Old Boat article by Norman Ralph that details his experiences:
http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/epoxycure.htm (http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/epoxycure.htm)
The advantages:
1. keep existing tank and 50 gallon capacity
The disadvantages:
1. difficulty of cutting an inspection port into the top of the tank given the limited clearance above the tank.
2. difficulty of applying the paste, sanding the repair, and then applying a coat of epoxy to the tank through a 10 inch inspection port.
3. the tank stays in place so there is no way to examine or refurbish the tank supports.
Or, I can replace the tank. The tank is too large to fit through the lazarettes. So I can think of three options:
1. remove the engine and then attempt to remove the tank through the companion way. I'd rather not do this, since if I spent the money to remove the engine it would be crazy not to have it rebuilt and refurbished while it was out of the boat. Given my list of off-season projects, this is more than I wish to do.
2. cut a hole in the cockpit sole and removed the tank through the hole. This seems drastic and quite involved.
3. dismantle the tank and remove the pieces through the lazarette. Since I don't know how long the tank has been leaking, removing the tank would allow me to examine and refurbish the supports under the tank, clean the engine pan, and remove all traces of the leaking diesel fuel.
My lazarettes measure roughly 14 inches at their widest point. I found one polyethylene diesel fuel tank that I would fit through the opening in the lazarette. It holds 26 gallons. Since the new tank would be easy to install, it would be easy to remove if I ever decided to pull the engine and put in a larger tank.
I'm curious what everyone thinks. If there's interest, I'll post pictures of the process.
I decided to remove the tank. It was the original 46 gallon aluminum tank. Here's a shot of the ID plate:
(//http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/eveningebb/DSCN4022.jpg)
Of course we had filled the tank for the winter layup so the first step was to pump out the tank. I removed the fill line and used a drill pump to pump the fuel into a 5 gallon portable diesel tank. I was able to remove about 44 gallons and since the drill pump hose was clear I could see that the fuel I removed was clean.
Since the only access was from the lazarettes and with my son standing by with a fire extinguisher and water hose, I cut out the side panel on the starboard side with a sawzall and then reached in with a cup to remove the remaining gallon and a half of fuel, but it would be more accurate to call this sludge since it was thick, black, and disgusting. I then used paper shop towels to wipe down the tank. The next step was to cut out the port side of the tank then cut the baffle, aft, and forward panels of the tank. Now that it was in two pieces it was easy to remove through the lazarette.
Here's a few shots from the port lazarette of the tank supports and rudder post:
(//http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/eveningebb/DSCN4018.jpg)
(//http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/eveningebb/DSCN4017.jpg)
And finally here are shots of the tank and the interior of the tank. You can see the baffle and the fuel gauge in the middle of the tank.
(//http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/eveningebb/DSCN4019.jpg)
(//http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/eveningebb/DSCN4021.jpg)
Wow...Wow...and wow!
The hull No of THIRD DAY is #192 and has a black Iron 50Gal fuel tank. I don't have a leak YET...but everyone knows that it is just a matter of time... where will it strike? When I'm Cruising the Galaphagos Islands?
Is there an option to put two 26gal plastic tanks in the spot? Or having two smaller tanks made that would fit through the Laz but give the larger fuel tankage even if in two tanks?
Please keep us updated as sooner or later us Pearson owners will have to deal with this.
Regards
I will second Richard's WOW... Can you tell were the tank was leaking...? It is nice to see how the tank was mounded. It appears to be a well thought out arrangement in which there is no place for water to collect under the tank. A box with a solid bottom would be much more likely to allow the tank to sit in water. Water, I think, is the biggest enemy of the aluminum tank.
Thank you for the pictures and information.. I am looking forward to hear and seeing what you will do to replace the tank.
Garner
It looked as though there were three pin-hole leaks. Two were along the rubber strips on the starboard side of the tank and one was in the middle along the front edge of the tank. When we filled the tanks for the winter layup the rate of the leaks increased.
After talking with tank manufacturers and a local marine supplier about replacement fuel tanks that would fit through the 14 inch lazarette opening, I had planned to build a mock-up (cardboard and duct tape) of the tank and use the measurements to obtain quotes for a stainless, aluminum, or cross-linked polyethylene tank.
As I was pondering this task, I decided to find out if Florida Marine Tanks (//http://www.floridamarinetanks.com/), the manufacturer of the original tank, was still in business. They are. Their representative was friendly and helpful. He asked if I knew the model number of the tank (FMT-46-PS). They had the original plans for the fuel tank and emailed me a copy.
(//http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/eveningebb/FMT-46-PS.jpg)
He said they could build me any shape tank I wanted, but suggested that I consider two tanks that would fit side-by-side into the same space with roughly the same capacity (thin rubber strips between the tanks). The fill, supply, return, vent, and electronic fuel gauge sender would be installed on one tank. The other tank would only need to be vented. There are two ways of connecting the tanks. The preferred way, he said, is to install 90 degree elbows on the bottom of the tanks and connect the tanks with a hose and hose clamps. Gravity takes care of the fuel transfer. Otherwise you could leave 3-4 inches between the tanks (reducing the capacity) and place the transfer connection at a low point between the sides of the tanks.
The tanks cost approximately $10 per gallon and take about 4 weeks to manufacture. The next piece of the puzzle is to see if there is enough clearance to make the tank connection once they're in place.
Thanks for the tank info! Hope I don't need it for awhile but going with two separate tanks sounds like a good idea. You could use plastic fuel tanks if you can get the right shape to fit.
Thanks again for the info,
Lennie and Carol
s/v Sol
I'm in the tank replacement game now. Haven't decided on the exact appraoch yet, I'll wait for the yard's recomendations and then see what the best/low cost solution turns out to be.
Rich
Rich,
When I fixed my fuel tank six years ago I pulled the engine and let it set in the companion way. Needless to say I just rebuilt the engine the year before. You will have to take the sides off the cabinet to make room to get the tank out of the engine compartment.
Use a wide putt-knife to peel the laminate off the plywood side of the cabinet and you will find most of the screws holding the cabinet together. Take you time getting the laminate off with out damaging it. When you put things back together all you have to do is spray the plywood with 3M adhesive and stick the laminate back on and know one well ever know that you have taken it apart.
Most of the pin-holes from water in the fuel will be found on the flat six inch bottom part of the tank. With an angle grinder I cut the whole bottom out and then steamed cleaned the tank, baffles and take up tube. Then I took the tank to a welding shop and had them clean a 1/8 steel plate and welded it in the bottom like the original was. This more than doubling the bottom thickness. They also presser tested the tank for leeks. I replaced the fuel censer and painted the tank with a good quality yellow tractor paint.
It's a time consuming project putting things back together; but for a few hundred bucks it is well worth stay with the original fuel tank that wont get pin-holes for many, many years.
Good sailing,
Tom
s/v Remembrance
Rich, Keep in mind the clearance for the water pump. There may be a way to have your tanks and be able to pull the impeller too!
Ok....fuel tank Update. Once the 2inches of black tar/sludge was removed there were TWO holes the size of a nickel in the bottom of the tank....ha ha ha...so out she came!
I'm now working with the yard to determine the best way to get a new 50gal tank back into the hole. Maybe two 25gal tanks...or pulling the engine for a single tank. This should be fun!
The original tank held 46 gallons. You could have one made, as I did, which will hold 40 gallons and fit through engine space - obviously you have to move the engine. I used the original schematic and told the builder to reduce the width by 2 inches, which is the only modification needed. It will then fit in the area designed for it that's behind the engine. Some BilgeCote, new straps -- and it's all good.
Best Regards,
Marc
60 Gal fuel tank
Here are the rough dimensions for the 60 gal tank. It fits through the stbd cockpit locker. I had to lop off the aft corners at an angle to get clearance to fit down into place. It fits all the way across between the stringers. Build a 1/8 plywood mock up with hot glue and duct tape to see how it fits. Modify as necessary. There is about 20 in clearance on top to the bottom of the cockpit. There is easy access to the engine and the big inspection port on the top of the tank. There is one baffle fore to aft down the middle of the tank. I don't have drafting software so the drawing is the best I can do. If somebody wants to do a real drawing, I would be interested in a copy. The letters should match to fit it together. You may have to flip some pieces over. The pieces will fit onto one 4ft by 8ft sheet of aluminum.
I don't know how to get the drawing into this posting. It is part of a word document.
I will email it as an attachment to anybody interested.
PS I also have pictures of removing the rudder shoe and replacement of the rudder bearing.
NormP
Ya Shure
365 hull 19
I would like the drawing...I am currently looking at the two tank solution.
I assume you would have to pull the engine to get the single larger (60gal) tank in place?
email to: svthirdday"at"yahoo"dot"com
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Regards