Pearson 365 and 367

For sale is our wonderful boat that has been our home for the past 10 years.
"Silver Wings" is a proven and well found cruising boat that has  sailed from Washington to Mexico and up and down the Pacific Mexican coast and the Sea of Cortez. She is well equipped with all the cruising equipment and systems.
Power:
*Westerbeke 40 with Walter V drive
*Reverso pump oil change system
Sails:
*Profurl boom furling main sail (Doyle)
*120% Genoa on Profurl furler (Dolye)
*Staysail on Profurl furler (Doyle)
*Asymmetrical spinnaker with Orca design
Equipment:
*Cruise RO watermaker (30gph)
*320 watts solar with two Victron MPPT controllers
*Victron Inverter/Charger
*80amp Balmar alternator
*2 256ah LiPOF batteries (512ah total)
*custom solar hot water heater
Interior:
*Custom galley cabinets
*Custom, high efficiency freezer/frig (very small battery drain)
*Custom (super comfortable) V berth mattress
Electronics:
*B&G Vulcan 9 chartplotter (new)
*Simrad 3G radar
*B&G depth, speed, wind
*Raymarine autopilot with custom built hydraulic ram
*Starlink dish on mount
Ground Tackle:
*Primary anchor- 44# Rocna, 200 feet of 5/16" chain plus 175' of 5/8" Mega braid
                          - Lewmar windlass with deck switches
*Secondary anchor- Delta with 50' of 5/15" chain and 200' of 5/8" megabraid
*Stern anchor- Fortress Aluminum with 10' of 5/16" chain and 200' of 1/2" double braid on a stern spool
*Stern line on a spool- 300' of 1/2" MFP floating line.
Miscellaneous:
*Custom hard dodger and bimini
*Hookah system for cleaning the bottom
*Dickenson Alaska diesel heater (currently disconnected)
* Honda 2000i generator

Not included but available as an add-on:
*8 foot Fatty Knees sailing dinghy

Photos available

I think I figured this one out.  Its my zinc.  I have 2 zincs on the shaft.  One is by the strut, other mid point of the shaft, to help protect the engine better.  This is probably what is causing the wobble at higher RPM.  It makes sense now, since there is no wobble or any perceptible movement at lower rpms.  Its whipping the shaft as the forces increase by the imbalance caused by the zinc. 

thanks for the response.  By coupler, I meant the part that bolts into the V drive and interfaces with the shaft via key and surface friction.  I aligned it using the 0.003 feeler gauge.  I had a buddy move around the V drive until I felt equal resistance all around the coupler and flange.  I will give it another shot - go with 0.002 feeler gauge, until I can feel equal resistance all around, and until I cannot insert a 0.003 feeler gauge at any spot. 

1850 RPM is when my vibration starts.  At full throttle the engine will rev to something like 2800rpms.  At 2100 rpms I am getting 6 knots at flat seas.  Prop is a max prop, balance checked at the factory, set at 17x10.4 pitch (the 3 blade I removed was 17x10). 

I do have a zerc fitting at my U joint, but I am not sure if it will lube the pins.  I haven't taken a good look at it because its underneath a piece of the cabin floor.  I suppose I should take it all apart and inspect, lubricate. 

"But like a dumb a** I reused the old coupler."  Coupler?

A u-joint will be visible when it fails.  The little pins inside will disintegrate. so the joint will be loose, visible rust etc. Grab the shaft and look for movement. I don't think there is a zirc fitting on this one so you would have to remove the caps to lubricate.  Lubing it won't fix the problem, it just prolongs the life of the joint.

V-drive alignment is critical. You need to be within +/-.003 inch of perfect.  There are numerous how to threads on this site.

1850 rpms?  Is that at full throttle?

Hi,
Over the winter, I fixed a loose strut and replaced the shaft bearing.  Also installed a max-prop.  But like a dumb a** I reused the old coupler.  I also didn't check the shaft for any bends, except for a very casual look down the shaft where it looked straight. 

When I re-launched, the shaft had absolutely no movement at idle, so I thought I was good to go.  But at cruising RPMs and above, there is enough vibration to shake both the shaft and the V drive itself.  Its not much, but its visible.  I'd say about 1.5mm of play.  I don't think there is any discernable movement at the U joint, but with the V drive itself shaking, I can't tell which part of the drivetrain is causing the shake.

I re-aligned the V drive the best I could, and I can now get it up to 1850rpms without any visible movement.  I imagine a bent shaft or a bad coupler will show up at any RPMs.  So now I am wondering if I have a worn out U joint. 

How could I check the U-joint?  Any chance that lubing it will fix the problem?  Any way to check it without removing the U joint?  Thank you in advance. 

..so whats confusing on these is their rating for only 90kg.. "Bushings DF-2207-2" are rated 450-750lb (204-340kg).. Considering engine weight 227kg + gearbox in case of knockdown, high seas god forbid capsize.. I have doubts they will hold..
I wrote to parts4engines if its typo, their response:
"This is the rating per mount and also shows the deflection at that weight rating. 227kg is the weight of the whole engine and each mount takes up to 90kg. when all mounts fitted this is compatible to take your engine weight.
We have had no issues reported in the many years of selling these mounts."
 

seems parts4engine did some "extensive research".. the advantages looks legit..

https://parts4engines.com/en-pt/products/perkins-4-107m-engine-mounts?variant=45144679973105

P.S.
Another thread to read on this topic - https://pearson365.com/index.php?topic=392.msg1528#msg1528

The web host moved servers and copied an old forum database, so the messages (and user) created after December 10th are gone. I've asked them to attempt a recover of what was the current database file, but I think it's unlikely. Sorry. Sometimes I feel like I'm the guy who picks the wrong girlfriend every time.

Thank you very much for keeping this running!

We upgraded the forum software tonight. Please post here if you encounter any problems.