Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

[jpendoley]

I have a project ahead of me. Removed the old Perkins and have it home in the shop. I can turn a wrench-but definitely an amateur. Rebuilt an Atomic four and it runs like a watch.  I also have the complete shop manual. The impetus to remove the diesel was copious oil leaks-beyond normal even for a perkins. Recall, I replaced the rear seal in place last year. Once home, I could see the rear seal is not leaking anymore, but it seems the leak is coming from the oil pan flange and perhaps from around the front seal.  This engine really runs well in all respects-its just the oil leaks that got me to pull it.

Current plan is do perform a leak down test (need to buy the gauges) and evaluate overall condidtion. The engine has 4000+ hours on it (meter stopped working), but starts easily, runs cool, plenty of power and no smoke.  If the leakdown test results are within spec, I will replace the gaskets top and bottom-if the results indicate rings or cylinder wear I'll consideer tearing it down and rebuilding from scratch..,
No matter what, it must be due for a valve adjustment or perhaps reseating.
Any cautionary words before I wade in too deep?
Jim

[S/V AMITY]

Nope...sounds like you have things well in hand.  Keep the progress posts coming.  Likely some of the rest of us with Westerbekes will be facing the same issues down the line.  Best for 2020!

[Dale Tanski]

Like any major project... just break it down into littler bits and it all doesn't look so overwhelming.  Working on a diesel is actually simpler as there is no ignition system to address.  You are down to the basic basics, air and fuel. 
The only items that you may look for some help on if you go the full monte would be the injectors and injector pump.  These two items need special tools and knowledge above most well versed mechanics.  The rest of it if you have done any engine work at all is sort of the same old thing. 
You can do it!
Dale
Maruska
365 Ketch

[jpendoley]

Thanks Dale.  I did rebuild an Atomic 4 a few years ago and that went well.  Diesels do seem easier without the ignition circuit.  The boat came with a set of four new injectors all sealed up in plastic.  The injection pump will be sent off if the head and cylinders turn out to be far out of spec.  Hoping just to reseal everything, but definitely going to mic everything before slap on new gaskets.

[S/V AMITY]

Will you be getting into the transmission?  Might be a good to change the seals while its out even if they aren't leaking... yet.

[jpendoley]

Will see how much work the diesel needs. Reality is the velvet drive is very easy to get at, so if I run out of time (65 days till spring!) can always do that in situ. Have never worked on a transmission so not eager to take on another project-runs very smooth now. Hoping the leak down test indicates good rings and valves and I only need to regasket and tighten things up and throw it back in.  It was the oil leak I am anxious to address-if there is significant source of blow by I will address incrementally. The motor was running fine-no smoke, lots of power-just a God awful amount of leaking oil....the good news is the rear seal I replaced last summer seems to be doing its job-no sign of a leak there. Lots of leaks indicated around the timing cover and the pan and the valve cover and a cheesy plastic cap over the mechanical tack port-essentially leaking from anyplace it can. I don't know if it has ever been regasketed, but am betting that will cut the consumption in half....

[S/V AMITY]

I wonder if the gasket material Westerbeke/Perkins used was spec'd. correctly to begin with.  Seems oil leaks are a constant with these engines. 

[jpendoley]

Next noob question: I bought a motor stand so I can elevate a spin the engine while working on it.  I bought one rated for 1000 pounds (cheap-$60).
My question is, where to mount the securing bolts? My thinking is the bell housing is too thin and it might crack if I attach the stand there.  My thought is to remove the bell housing and flywheel and try to find mounting holes in the engine block....am I on the right track? I've never had a stand and I worry about all that weight on the mounting bolts might crack the block if I use the wrong bolt holes. silly probably, but I'm cautious in my old age...

[P69]

I removed the bell housing (bell housing cover?) From my Universal 5444 and bolted the engine to the stand. 

It was kinda weird seeing 500 lbs hanging from one end, but it stayed put for several months while I rebuilt it.

http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=8&pid=112#top_display_media

I bought a 1000 lb capacity stand similar to this harbor freight one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69886.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+Top+SKUs+-+All+%28Branded%29||69886&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=s|pcrid|405242651993|pkw||pmt||pdv|m|slid||product|69886|&pgrid=87378099278&ptaid=pla-295478218950&pcid=1426698639&intent=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm53Jg7vw5gIVAdbACh1U1QAzEAQYASABEgLZffD_BwE

[jpendoley]

Thanks for that reassurance Pete. That Harbor Frieght unit is the one I have.  Removed four of the five flywheel bolts with an impact driver, but the last one knurled over. Who woulda thought impact wrenches need impact sockets NOT normal chromed sockets...sign?  I'm not a mechanic by trade, just a sales executive mechanic wannabe. Live and learn. soaking that bolt with kroil penetrant, hopefully it will yield tonight.

[S/V Deo Volente]

There are specialty sockets to use on rounded bolts also. They have saved me a few times. Impact sockets are not only harder but all are 6 points which are less likely to round the bolt, but I bet you know that now.

[jpendoley]

I know that now:)
IRWIN HANSON BOLT-GRIP Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5 Piece, -new tool on the way. This is one expensive bolt...if extraction doohickey does't work I get to buy a welder to put a new head on the knurled head. Could be fun

[S/V Deo Volente]

I know that now:)
IRWIN HANSON BOLT-GRIP Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5 Piece, -new tool on the way. This is one expensive bolt...if extraction doohickey does't work I get to buy a welder to put a new head on the knurled head. Could be fun

Well it's nice you can weld it, but if that breaks it off they make left handed drill bits that can aid in extraction. I hope it doesn't come to that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4

[S/V AMITY]

... or center drill it and use an easy-out.

[S/V Deo Volente]

... or center drill it and use an easy-out.

If it works for you great, I haven't had much luck with easy-outs especially on rusted bolts. Drilling down the center is important though in case you end up drilling and tapping.