Useless cleat

[S/V AMITY]

While the bowsprit's off will be eliminating the stbd. side cleat that fouls the chain.  Port side cleat will be replaced with either a larger cleat or a bit.  Any opinions regarding cleat vs. bit?  Cheers!

[Jim S]

The single port cleat on the bow seems insufficient.  A single midline cleat large enough to accommodate two or more lines may foul the chain.  A large bit would seem ok, but how would that foul the chain less than the starboard cleat, and do you really want to pierce the deck with a samson post? 

Could you put a shim under the windlass or raise the bow roller to elevate the chain so it clears the cleat, maybe a little on both?

Interesting dilemma on a crowded foredeck.

[S/V AMITY]

Those were my thoughts exactly.  A much larger cleat to replace the port side one, able to handle two lines, might be the answer.  Big solid bronze & stainless ones are all over the place on eBay.  Cheers!

[P69]

Put a couple of cleats on the toe rail. This would eliminate chafe on the docklines and snubber if you have all chain.  Cleats on the toe rail also get them out of the way of the anchor rode.  You still need a cleat for your anchor line, but you should't leave the anchor rode running off the bow sprit while anchored, that is a lot of force pressing downward during strenuous conditions.

[Jim S]

P69 is correct.  Cleats on the toe rail would be very strong.  The original bowsprit was intended as anchor storage only, not for lying to anchor or during anchor breakout. The windlass is not a good securing point on the boat while lying to the anchor.  Likewise, breaking out a stubborn anchor with the original bowsprit may result in a broken bowsprit,  Many have shortened the bowsprit (like I have done) or somehow added some support to protect the sprit.

[S/V AMITY]

Agree, bowsprit is only for storing the hooks.  Amity does have however a beefy strut from the fwd. end of the sprit  down to the stem boot top so there is some added strength there but no latteral bracing. Will add latteral bracing rods for peace of mind.  Punching into seas with two anchors (120 lbs.) up there is concerning.  Have seen too many 365's with busted off 'sprits.

Regarding cleats on the toe rail, that is certainly an option.  Still have to think that through.  Another option is to mount cleats, port & stbd., on the inside of the bulwarks through bolted & backed, and add hawse holes through just fwd. of the cleats.  These would also eliminate the need for the existing port & stbd. chalks on the toe rail. The bulwark cleats would be in addition to the proposed larger single cleat on the bowsprit just fwd. of the windlass and out of the way of the chain path.

Off topic a bit, have been trying out Awlwood finish on the hand rails.  Primer is taking 3 days to cure so very, very slow progress.  Jamestown Dist. tech I discussed this with said the system needs a fair amount of humidity to cure.  Here in New England winter humidity is low, so that is a problem.  Have ordered a humidifier for the shop so hopefully that'll help.  Cheers!

[S/V AMITY]

Correction:. Would not eliminate the need for the chalks... Still need them for the snubber and a bridal.

[Jim S]

Chocks on the toe rail are very useful.  Cleats on the bulwark would be too.  The accompanying photograph shows two sets of chocks on the toe rail and one set of cleats on the bulwark.  The bowsprit is not original and does have additional support.  The owner deployed the nylon anchor pennant over the bow roller.

I am uncertain how hawse pipe would work on a 365 foredeck. 

[Jim S]

better photo

[S/V AMITY]

Thanks for the picture.  I can see what you mean about the chocks.
How is the port side chain brought in?  Doesn't appear to be fair with the windlass.

[Jim S]

I have a Sea Tiger windlass as well and the only fair chain lead is to the starboard side.  I do not know how Jay dealt with the foul lead.  I use nylon/short chain rode on the port side that is fair with the drum.  I have found that there is no perfect solution to most things in boating.

[S/V AMITY]

I have a Maxwell vertical capstan.  Stbd. side is chain (see cleat interference mess which started this whole discussion). Port side for the other anchor will be 3-strand rode which will be on the capstan.  Everything leads fair.

Other thing I saw in his picture was he doesn't have a dorade vent for the chain locker.  I have one and will be getting rid of it.  Would rather have ventilation for the locker from the cabin than have that hole in the foredeck.  Again, punching into seas I want to have as few holes up there as possible.

Attached pictures show my foredeck and the confusion of lines.  Also a shot of the bowsprit support.  Cheers!

[S/V AMITY]

And just as a note... the "varnish work" you see is as received when we picked her up this past summer.  That'll all be redone when we get the shipboard basics under control.  Looks to me like a frankenstein mix of original varnish, oil, Cetol, varnish again and lastly oil all one on top of one another.  Thankfully a good portion of it blew off with the pressure washer.

[S/V AMITY]

    Will be eliminating the stbd. side bowsprit cleat and replacing the port side cleat with a 12" stainless Herreshoff.  The original cleat was 9" aluminum. The pathway under the chain from the windlass to the sprit roller will be fitted with a strip of EPDM or silicone rubber.  The idea of 3/8" galvanised chain rattling along an unprotected varnished surface is just plain wrong.  Cheers!

[S/V AMITY]

Refinished bowsprit and approx. location of the new cleat.  Cleat gets mounted after the bowsprit is remounted on the boat.  Will add a larger backing plate for the cleat.