Author Topic: Have you done interior varnish?  (Read 2883 times)

Richard

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Have you done interior varnish?
« on: May 03, 2017, 08:44:16 PM »
I would like to tune up my inside varnish.  The finish is still OK in most places, with a bit of wear and water damage around the galley sink.

I would like to retain the non-glossy finish of the mahogany finish.  Would using a wipe on varnish be a good idea?  Should it be a matte or satin finish?

Any suggestions and experience would be appreciate.

Richard
SV Water Spirit

Jim S

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2017, 07:25:10 AM »
I have used "Restore-A-Finish" (ordinary hardware stores, big box) to rejuvenate the finish inside Phantom.  The product comes in tints,  i.e. mahagony or ash, so use the correct tint.  It worked very well.  Follow with a good wax to protect.
Jim S

S/V Deo Volente

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2017, 07:38:35 AM »
I have varnished my interior, you can get satin or semi-gloss. If you want to wipe it just thin it up to 50/50. I brushed semi-gloss on, removing the doors and some panels so they could be varnished horizontally.
"S/V Deo Volente"
Pearson 365 Pilothouse
Hull #17 1980
Duluth Minnesota
Bob

Dale Tanski

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2017, 10:48:36 AM »
A couple of notes regarding varnish...

All varnish starts out life as "Gloss finish".  Like most applied coatings, the more coats or surface build the better the long term durability.  Thin or wash coats mean loss of durability.  Just like your skin, the more layers the better.  As one dies the one below takes over.  If you are planning on applying many coats to improve a surfaces durability even if you want a matte or rubbed effect final surface, apply gloss first as it will have the highest surface build of any product.  Simply said it will give you the thickest coating per coat.  Gloss also typically costs less then its not so shiny cousins so it represents a better value.

Gloss is also the clearest of any of the types of finishes or has the best "clarity".  Do not confuse "clarity" with color.  All varnishes all have a color with the exception of some of the two part systems.  Clearness or clarity is the ability to see through the finish to the wood after it is applied. 

Matte and rubbed effect varnish finishes are manufactured by taking gloss and adding a matting agent to it.  Matting agents for varnish are typically a very fine powder (silica) or in some cases wax.  The silica (or wax) floats to the surface as it dries and creates a "stubble" finish that diffuses light giving it a blurry or fuzzy look we call matte.  The degree of matte additive depends on how non-shiny you desire, all the way from a flat to a semi gloss finish.  The more matte agent the less gloss, however that comes with a price.  The more matte agent the less clarity.  To get around this, manufactures thin the matte finish products making them physically thinner thus improving the clarity.  This is another reason why if you are looking to apply multiple coats, start out with gloss and final coat with the matte finish of your choosing, as the overall surface thickness and clarity is improved.

Another way to achieve the matte finish you desire is to apply a gloss varnish and "hand rub" the final surface to achieve the desired level of matte you require.  Hand rubbing can be accomplished by lightly wet sanding the surface with 400 and or higher wet sandpaper.  You can also use steel wool or a 3M Vertex pad.  In all cases you are taking a smooth shiny "perfect" surface and creating a less than perfect "stumbled" or scratched surface to diffuse the light.   Hand rubbing has an additional effect upon the surface.  A hand rubbed surface will feel as smooth as a baby's behind because you remove all of the surface imperfections such as dust and debris that become embedded during the varnishing process.  Boats like Hinkleys were at one time or perhaps still are hand rubbed to achieve a superior surface finish and feel.  Often after hand rubbing, the surface was buffed to achieve a truly perfect gloss finish not just visually but to the touch as well. 

Some day (or by popular demand) I will touch on the various types of varnish and which ones are best for specific applications.

Good varnishing...
Wood is good, especially when nicely varnished.

Dale Tanski
Obersheimer's

"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

Richard

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2017, 11:20:14 AM »
Thanks for all of the help!

Richard

kevin barber

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2017, 08:29:33 AM »
I have had very good results with Goldspar Satin wood coating. My entire interior has been redone with it.  It's an easy product to use, and it turns out with a nice satin finish.   

Here is a link to a pic of my cabin sole I refinished a few months ago.

https://goo.gl/photos/pkU2ZeFMZ9YS9Eyh7
Kevin Barber
S/V Pan dragon
1982 Pearson 367 Cutter
Hull 41

Richard

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2017, 10:54:11 AM »
Thanks.

Richard

SailingSeaDragon

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2017, 11:06:26 AM »
Kevin,

Dang that looks nice..... I will NOT be posting a picture of my cabin sole after seeing yours.

Garner
Sea Dragon
1981 36 Cutter (367)
http://www.sailingseadragon.com

Richard

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2017, 11:53:36 AM »
That does look really good!

Richard

Dale Tanski

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2017, 12:23:44 PM »
Kevin,

Agree it looks great.  What I did notice, is that your forward bilge access is two separate lift out boards.  Mine is one big one like the one back by the ice box.  Was that factory or did you do that?

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

kevin barber

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Re: Have you done interior varnish?
« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2017, 03:39:44 PM »
Thanks guys,

Dale, to answer your question, the midship bilge compartment came from the factory with the two opening floorboards.  My access by the refrigerator is two boards as well.   In 1982 it seems like Pearson started putting some little extra touches on the 367.

Here is an album of photos dating back to 2004 when I bought the boat.    I may be obsessed with my boat.

https://goo.gl/photos/bAC2pwEbszfsEyDk7

Cheers!
Kevin Barber
S/V Pan dragon
1982 Pearson 367 Cutter
Hull 41