westerbeke 40 Oil change question

[jpendoley]

Hi Everyone,
Am getting through the season with my new boat and getting around to my first oil change (though the 4/107 seems to change its own oil through the rear seal ).

Question I have is given the vdrive and the install angle, what is the best way to get all of the oil out? I tried going in through the dipstick tube with a pump, but that seems pretty ineffective in that the tube for the vaccum pump does not seem to connect with that much oil as the sump is tilted quite a ways forward and the dipstick tube is located quite a ways aft. Is there another better access point? What works for others with the Westerbeke 4-107?

[Dale Tanski]

There is a standard oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan on a 4-107.  It is difficult to see, access and remove but it is there.  I have actually pulled that plug with the engine in place in the 365.  I formed a disposable tin foil turkey type pan under the engine and drained the oil into the pan.  I would caution to scoop as much oil out of the tin foil pan as possible while it is draining so as it does not overflow.  Seeing as you have drained much of the oil out through the dip stick this should not be a problem. 

You need to be resourceful, limber and patient but it can be done.  That being said, if you ever pull the engine out of your boat install a short length of quality hose from the oil pan oil plug to the entrance of the bilge.  Once that is in place you can remove the plug from the free end of the hose and drain the oil into a container as needed.  Did I do that? No but I am even considering lifting my engine and installing the hose to be able to do just that.

Removing the oil through the dipstick isn't all that bad if you change the oil and filter on a regular basis. Changing the oil filter is yet another issue.  I would recommend installing a remote oil filter mount. This minimizes oil oozing down the block when you unscrew the filter. This one I did and it works perfectly.  And... in defense of the old 4-107's rear seal, it is after all 40 plus years old. 

Good Sailing...

Dale

[jpendoley]

Dale,
Thanks for your thoughts. I too have a remotely mounted filter, but am less then enthralled. the cap that goes where the filter use to be wiggles looses and I lost quite a bit of oil throppugh that port. The filter is easier to change. but that cap bears watching. Could have been a real problem if not caught when it was. Easily lost a cup of oil in 8 hours of motoring before tightening...and its still leaking.

[KIDTLTACK]

RE: oil sump plug. I finally got fed up with trying to pump oil through the dipstick (it's a joke).   a little exploration reveals access to the sump plug.  One can remove the engine box / galley sink base cabinet partition and adjacent plywood floor panel under the galley sink.  This is quite easy and allows a wrench to be placed on the sump plug.  With the oil drained, take the removed plug to a hydraulic fitting supplier (mine turned out to be bsp(British straight thread) You can buy the adapter to an american jic fitting.  Add the desired length of hydraulic hose together with an in line shutoff valve and an additional short length of hose on the discharge side of the shutoff valve (this is for inserting into your choice of drain oil container). I routed the hose over the top of the partition between the motor box and the base cabinet of the galley sink and hung it on a bracket on the sink side of the partition.  When it's time to change oil,  lay the hose in the bilge and insert the hose into your choice of container.  Open the valve and all the hot oil quickly drains.   the  entire oil and filter change takes less than fifteen minutes.  Cost is about $50.00 dollars.  It was well worth the effort and eliminates the frustration for future oil changes

Brian Bafs

[Risto and Liz]

I have been having a hell of a time getting the new drain plug fitting in with the minimal clearance to the flywheel housing. I found the correct bsp fitting at a hose and fitting place in Seattle but the hex portion was way too big to clear the housing. I ground it down to the diameter of the old plug and hope to be able to get a good vice grip purchase on it as well as using the brass flare fitting nut. I will post some pictures when and if it is successful.

[KIDTLTACK]

They also make a 45 degree fitting that may help your clearance problem.  Persevere , it's worth it. Best of luck
kidtltack

[Della and Dave]

Did you finally succeed?  We have been thinking about this mod this summer, but given parts availability in Seward, need to plan  it carefully before pulling the plug.   Do you have a part number or thread call out that fits? 

[slokat]

One of the best Modifications I've inherited from PO is the fitting installed instead of an oil plug with a line going up to an electric pump.  Almost makes up for all the bad wiring I have to keep finding and replacing, almost.

Pump is mounted on the engine side of the galley sink cabinet.
Put a container under the exit hose, press the button & the oil pumps into the container... takes less than five minutes.

If you ever pull your engine, at least add the conversion fitting and a capped line, a pump can be installed later. (Actually, a temporary pump could be used, manual or electric.)

[Risto and Liz]

I was finally successful. I ended up making a banjo fittings from parts. I will post the details and pics when I have a minute.

[jpendoley]

Risto-looking forward to those pictures because this project is high on my list. Want to do it before launching and starting the engine.
Jim