Engine Cleaned up - Painted

[P69]

I rebuilt the engine. The machine shop took care of valves pistons, etc... that are inside the crank case and I took care of everything I can reach without special tools. I stripped down to bare metal, doused it several times with phosphoric acid, then primed/painted it.

I'm finishing up reassembling it and am redesigning brackets for the fuel and oil filters so they are easier to reach.  Once I get it complete and it actually runs, I'll call myself a mechanic!.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111274927949602013478/EngineRebuiltPainted

Took care of the V drive also. I'm rebuilding its mounts in the boat because the factory design was crappy, wood glassed to the hull (wood rotting, what did they expect?).

[S/V Deo Volente]

That sure is Pretty! I think most auxiliaries suffer from neglect, I bet that won't happen here. Looks First Class. Can you update us on what was done at the machine shop? How many hours?

[P69]

Yes, the machine shop.

I stripped everything off the motor that I could. All that was left were: 
Flywheel, head, oil pan, but only with three bolts, fuel camshaft and its bearings, the other camshaft, pistons, rings, crankshaft and all the things inside there that keep things spinning nicely.

The engine is a Universal 5444 (kubota block).

Hours are not itemized on the invoice, but it was about $750 for parts and $1300 for labor.

There is a line-item on the invoice called "ReRingParts-Mains, Rods, Rings, Gaskets'. I guess that is a rebuild package that has all gaskets, bearings and other wearable parts.

Machine shop removed flywheel, head, valves, pistons,  fuel camshaft, main camshaft, crankshaft and the bearings, pistons, and  everything else that was inside the engine, incl. bearings, oil pump, everything.

Then they cleaned the block and  head, did a 'valve job', measured pistons (they were good), replaced the rings, honed the cylinders slightly, replaced the bearings inside the engine, replaced all freeze plugs, put it all back together as it was when I delivered it.

I asked them  not to dip the block/head into their caustic tank because the interior of the engine and oil passages on the head were painted with some red paint and I was afraid their hot dip will weakend or partially remove that red paint.  They did their best on the exterior cleaning, but i need to followup with  a dremel/ospho/dremel/ospho for about 4 cycles to get it bare/clean and ready for primer.

I sent the fuel pump off to different place and it was rebuild for $600. It was in fair shape, one of the pistons/cylinders was in pretty bad shape.

It's almost ready for a test start, but I have to first make a bracket for the on-engine fuel filter and oil filter so I can get to them from inside the cabin (it's pretty awkward to work in the cockpit locker).  Once I get it designed, I'll weld up the bracket, bolt it to the engine, the finish the reassembly and test run it.

The paint is Por15.  Primer is the POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating (gray), paint is POR-15 Engine Enamel (white). I'll let ya'll know in a few years if that pain holds up to its marketing reputation.

V drive (rv26) was in good shape. it had a ton of rust.  I removed it, stripped it down, and reassemble it for the hell of it because well, boat wasn't going anywhere without an engine, so out it came.

The engine was in pretty good shape with no signs of any need to tear it down, but I tried to clean it up in the boat and said, "screw it, out is comes".  The only issue I had was that, after a month or two so not running, it would start quickly, but after a few minutes, die.  I figured air was getting in somewhere. 

There were a few scary defects in the main engine and might not apply to westerbekes.

1.  the gear case is aluminum and the freshwater/coolant passage ways has about small, but deep, pits. I had to replace it. The pits were so deep in two spots that there was about a thin millimeter of aluminum left keeping the coolant in the passage.

2. One bearing (about an inch in dia.) was corroded and not spinning. Not sure where it came from, but it came back from the machine shop in a scrap box.
3.  I don't remember the other thing that made me think, "glad I took this bastard apart".  It was something you'd never see until it failed.

During this process i've kept a spreadsheet of the individual parts I bought so I can develop a parts cross-reference sheet between Universal and Kubota. Once it's finished, I'll post it. I think this will only be useful to the later year 367's because most of ya'll have westerbekes or repowered yanmars. 

Lou, I'm looking for a way to extend the dip stick.  I'm experimenting with a copper tube.  I'll let you know what I figure out.

Deo, if you have any more specific questions, I'll try to answer them.

[S/V Deo Volente]

I was wondering how many hours were on the engine. As my Westerbeke adds up the hours I wonder more about how long before a rebuild. I'm over 3000 and hoping to double that.    Obviously yours was repowered at some point.

Bob

[P69]

Bob,
Engine house? Sorry, I  misunderstood your question.  The hour meter showed about 1860 when I bought the boat about 4 years ago and I'm sure it did not roll to 1900 by the time I tore out the electrical system, disabling the hour meter. I ran it just a few times after that and it never rolled. Either it's broken or miswired.  I probably miswired it.  I'll get it straightened out when I put the engine back and rewire properly.

Unlikely a repower because the kubota SN on the block is low and it's labeled Universal 5444, , so it's definitely a 5444.  It's more likely that it was not used much or the hour meter intermittently stopped rolling during its life.  Another possiblity that might account for the good internal condition is a previous rebuild.  Who knows?  all I know  is that it's in great shape now.  I do know the electrical system was shot because of corrosion.

I'll be glad to get it back running, in the boat, so I can move on to other tasks.