Cutlass Bearing Strut

[TheIntern36]

One of the bolts that holds on my Cutlass Bearing Strut is weeping.  I've dammed it up to keep the water out for now, but I want to re-bed it before the engine goes back in, I know if I don't It will start leaking more over time and I'll regret not having the uninhibited access I have now.  I'm prepared to have it towed to the yard to get hauled out, but I'm wondering if this is something I really need to pay them to do.  Has anyone done this themselves?  How difficult is it to remove?  Will it self-align when I bolt it back together with the proper goop, or do I need to be worried about alignment?

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Sam

[PeteW]

Here's a picture of the Pearson 365 bronze strut.



The strut goes into a rectangular flat bottomed pocket. So it's recessed into the hull and held into place with I'm guessing phosphor bronze thru bolts.  It may actually get glassed into this pocket. Mine was. I was going to replace mine at haul-out but it looked good. Good meaning no electrolysis on the bronze.

So I'm not sure if re-bedding is the fix unless you are going to replace it ($750 a few years ago if the guy who owns the mold is still in business) . You will have to chop it out to do that. Hopefully the bolt head corroded off because it was stainless and you can drill it out and replace. There's always the possibility that it hit something bent or cracked the hull.

The cutless bearing should be replaced and when you pull the shaft, see if it scored where it passes through the stuffing box. This would also be the best time to replace the hose and clamps on the stuffing box. 

Pete

[TheIntern36]

Pete, Maybe I'm asking the wrong question.  I know I have a leak.. It doesn't appear that there is any structural damage.  I was under the boat a year ago, new stuffing box, hose clamps, checked shaft and new cutlass bearing. Should I just focus on sealing the strut in place from the outside?

[Della and Dave]

This is what ours looked like on the way back to being reinstalled.  As part of our refit, we pulled it and checked it out for corrosion.  It's a good thing to do while you have the motor out because once it is back in, access is tough.  Ours was faired in with a fairing compound, i.e. fancy expensive marine bondo. 

[TheIntern36]

I wonder how hard it is to get all the Bondo out of the way so you can get the thing off...  I imagine there will be much hammering and swearing to come.

[Della and Dave]

There is cause for some sailor language. Get comfortable, put in some tunes and have a cold one ready.  Mostly it takes patience.  A drill motor with a burr helps, but be careful.  Wear a dust mask and I like a face shield.  Ours was a bit gapped around the strut so it worked to follow that in as we ground.  I had professional help on ours. 

[TheIntern36]

If I remember correctly I could see a gap forming in the bedding around mine as well.  This will be fun!