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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: Welcome to the Pearson 365...
Last post by Oleksandr29 - September 29, 2023, 04:27:43 PM
Hello. I want to buy a Pearson 365 yacht. I have seen many advertisements on the Internet about the sale of a Pearson 365 in the USA. Now I have arrived in the USA and want to choose and buy the "yacht of my dreams", but for some reason most sellers do not answer me :( So far I have only been able to see one yacht :( Maybe there are owners here on this forum who would like to sell their Pearson or maybe someone knows such people and can advise me something?
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Stern Tube Diameter P365 (...
Last post by eveningebb - September 29, 2023, 01:37:20 PM
I use 1/4 inch PTFE flax shaft packing and the syntef shaft packing lubricant. I believe it's the same for the rudder post.

My experience has been the same as the post you highlighted.

I rigged a separate low pick up bilge pump to keep the bilge almost dry.

Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Stern Tube Diameter P365 (...
Last post by Popeye.Tom - September 27, 2023, 05:35:49 PM
Just was looking at the offerings at West Marine and Englund.

Does anyone know what diameter or size I need for what I am assuming is a original stuffing box.  1/4", 1/2" ???

Would I use same for the rudder stuffing box?  I don't plan to touch it, it is dry as a bone.  It would be good to have some on hand for later use if needed!

Anyone have experience with this?  It is substantially more than flax with PTFE, but still less than a PSS or Tides!  Green "Moldable" packing.

Flax with Teflon

Western Pacific's flax with PTFE
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Stern Tube Diameter P365 (...
Last post by Popeye.Tom - September 27, 2023, 05:16:33 PM
Thanks Dirk, still not sure what to do, but a truly 'dust dry' bilge would be nice.  Maybe go w/ the teflon packing and consider a Tides Marine or PSS next time!

This is from a packing thread at the by Jim Cate: "To the contrary, on our previous boat we had a conventional stuffing box. I replaced the flax with a teflon coated packing and used the special grease that West Marine sold to be used in such affairs. This set up ran cool to the touch and with no static and very little running leakage... for over a decade of full time cruising. Never even needed adjusting once run in. I'd use it again without hesitation in a conventional box."
Congrats on the primer on the Melges!

Dale, can you confirm stern tube is 2-1/4" OD?  All my research says it is. 

Do you have any strong aversion for the dripless shaft seals or a good experience of one versus another? I was going to go ahead and put a dripless shaft seal.  I know a lot of people use the traditional and I could repack, but was thinking of just replacing with a dripless.  Not cheap, but also not too dear $. 

I just got a call 10 minutes ago from the Sherwin-Williams store in Coos Bay.  My 5000HS epoxy is in.  Waiting still on the ablative paint.  Now I just have to hope for a weather window and time off work!

If you weren't so ambitious you wouldn't have all these problems!  Looks great and the end is near. Don't cut any corners, see yourself it through. 
I have been sanding a Melges 24 hull for a repaint. Somebody put awlgrip below the waterline over barrier coat that was over two separate layers of bottom paints.   Yup, it was losing adhesion and chunking off.  Currently over 12 hours of sanding starting with #36 up to #150.  I even air filed trying to smooth out what looks like a aggressive sanding disk hack on a drill motor.  But... the new primer is now on.
Good luck
Well, that didn't work.  Here are links:

Sitting on stands:

Getting blasted:
Let's see if I can make this work!

Here's Gypsy just after being set down by the TravelLift:

And here it is, 4 days later.  Dustless Blasting is just starting the first section.

Last week I spent a long few days scraping.  The boat was actually surprisingly clean for not being out for a few years.  It cleaned up really pretty darned good with the pressure wash in the slings.

Some dimples along the waterline where muscles may have attached earlier and popped gelcoat when scraped, but amazingly, I found NO blisters! ;D

The first layer of black bottom paint scraped and chipped off well.  Messy, but it came off.  The next layer was a red that almost seemed to polish when I scraped.  I used nice carbide blade Bahco (Sandvig) and flipped the blade to the new edge when scraping got slower.

After the black there was a dark red layer.  I found that it just kind of polished and was not easily scraped with a sharp edge.  I then tried three different strippers, none were great.  I didn't order any of the strippers tested by Practical Sailor.  I had Bare-Z-All and bought a can of Sunnyside 2-Minute from the hardware store.

The Bare-Z-All is a nice thick almost custard consistency.  It is low odor, non-flammable and water rinse-able.  I tried both covered with plastic and uncovered.  I didn't give any of the strippers hours and hours, but pretty reasonable working time.  This worked as well as the solvent and highly stinky and flammable 2-Minute.

The 2 minute is the general gel consistency.  Mostly petroleum products and highly flammable.  You would not want to use this indoors.  Uncovered or covered, it really did little better than the Bare-Z-All.  I would not recommend this, if only for the hazardous flammable nature and the hazardous stench!

I'd be curious to see how the Soy Strip or other recommended strippers tested by Practical Sailor performed.  BUT, I simply realized I'd not the time nor the inclination to order strippers and spend more days upon days...

I hired the local (Brookings, Oregon) "Dustless Blasting," Ashton and Tony.  They have a mobile rig with a diesel compressor and use a wet blast system.  The water injection with the abrasive media does go a long way towards reducing the fine dust cloud.  It does still spread dirt around.  They setup tarp screens around the boat that further reduce the spread and are planning to fully enclose their own area at the boatyard in Brookings.

Ash went through 4 pots of abrasive, but the boat is pretty much ready to epoxy seal coat now.  The blasting found what are probably some small voids just under the original gelcoat and some ~iffy~ or just OK blister repairs.  I will clean these up and will refill with epoxy putty.  Not sure if I'll do it between the first and second barrier coats but more likely will do it before the first barrier coat.

I need to find a cloud place to stash some pics and I'll add those to the thread.

Dale - I didn't check my notes and had brain fade on the big Wilcox Crittenden seacocks.  These were the bloody cockpit drains.  I was able to get them apart and they now turn properly! 

I'm in pause because of a large storm coming through.  High winds and cooler temperatures.  Long term weather shows this passing and I should be able to work again in the second week of October.  I will likely only be able to do one layer a day, according to the drying/recoat time vs temperature graphs for products on the NST Center NAVSEA reviews.  This will mean I need 5 days or maybe 6 go get through 3 full epoxy barrier coats and 2 coats of bottom paint.  I'm considering a visqueen skirt and a propane or kerosene space heater to reduce the recoat times.

Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Stern Tube Diameter P365 (...
Last post by eveningebb - September 25, 2023, 02:53:33 PM
I've been happy with just the old style with Teflon packing. If you're replacing the shaft log or packing hose it is 2 1/4" by 4 1/2". Fisheries supply carries them.