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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by S/V AMITY on January 15, 2020, 06:32:28 PM »

Search YouTube for "straighten bent engine oil pan".  Guy is straightening his auto transmission pan but it amounts to the same thing.

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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Cockpit Locker Hinges

« Last post by S/V AMITY on January 15, 2020, 06:18:40 PM »

My ketch came with the same bungee setup.  Not terribly elegant but it works.  If someone really wanted to get into the lockers they could get in faster with a crowbar.  For your hinge pins, if they are a close enough fit in the hinge barrels, you could center drill the end faces about 1/8" deep at both ends and center punch them to flare the ends.  Should hold nicely.  To stop the hinges rattling, bend the pins slightly (trial & error) and press into the barrels.

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by S/V AMITY on January 15, 2020, 06:04:35 PM »

A used one may be just a swap for the same problem.  Try making a fixture out of good flat hard wood such as birch to match the flange faces and gently hammer the pan flange as flat as you can get it.  It might just work.

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by jpendoley on January 15, 2020, 05:28:51 PM »

Yeah, that was my thinking when I posted the picture-thank you for confirming my suspicion.  Wonder where I can get a good used oil pan?

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by S/V AMITY on January 15, 2020, 01:51:44 PM »

  That pan is warped/bent beyond redemption... will never reliably seal again.  Add a new pan + gasket to the order list.  Recommend Permatex for gooping the new gasket.  https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U .

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by jpendoley on January 15, 2020, 01:26:49 PM »

Good point on the pedestal bolts. Dale is right about the oil drain hose-I installed one and no longer dread an oil change-great upgrade. I did that when I replaced the rear seal in place last year.. Ditto for the remotely mounted oil filter-though the cap that covers the original oil filter mounting point does not seal perfectly-maybe it just needs to be spun on tighter.

The paint stripping question will be resolved by the leakdown test. Good numbers mean this is just a gasketing job-engine has 4000+ hours on it, but was well maintaained. If a rebuild is warranted, then I can have a creamy white engine...

Interestingly, the oil pan is a huge source of seepage. When I looked at the pan (still attached) you could see where the pan flange had been distorted by the bolts being tightened down.It was leaking in a couple of places. Given the level of distortion to the pan flange, I don't see how it COULD NOT leak!
Starting at the blue line in the picture you can follow the wavy outline of what at one time must have been a straight edge.

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by Dale Tanski on January 15, 2020, 10:24:05 AM »

If it were me, unless you are planning on a complete tear down, all off, everything apart, prepping the externals for paint using something like soda blast or glass beads will be tough to do.  It will be all but impossible to keep contaminants form entering the internals using an accelerated airborne abrasive.  Once inside who knows what will happen.  If its all apart, let-er rip and clean after the fact. I would even prepaint sub assemblies if you go this way.

Even if you are planning on a complete tear down or a wash and paint, degreasing should be the first order of business.  I would use some sort of solvent and then perhaps a trip to the quarter car wash or a steam cleaner.  If the original paint has questionable adhesion characteristics it should/will fail during any of the above procedures.  If a solvent or pressure wash wont take it off it should be good to go. 

I solvent cleaned my 4-107 and sprayed it with a two part urethane in 2005.  I stuck with the Westerbeke orange/red color and to this day it looks like new.  That includes 8 straight full days running the Erie Canal.  If you get it all done and 4 years from now you see a line of weeping oil down that snow white paint job are you going to tear it apart again? Probably not but it would look sweet. One thing is for sure... sooner or latter it will leak some how some where. 

Before you stick it all back together I would recommend installing a oil drain hose from the drain fitting on the bottom of the oil pan down into the bilge with a cap on the end.  When it comes time for an oil change take the cap off and drop the hose into a empty gallon container and let it drain. This is something I forgot to do on mine.  Also, I installed a remote oil filter that mounts on the bulkhead.  That little option makes for a much better experience while changing the filter, nothing drooling down the motor.

Dale

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by S/V AMITY on January 15, 2020, 10:08:02 AM »

  Your engine looks good compared to some.  OK, I'll say it: stay away from blasting.

  This engine was out & worked on previously.  Paint colour mis-match between the block & pan tells that story.  From what your picture shows I'd replace ALL accessible gaskets, replace all flex hoses & wiring.  Run the engine in the shop for a couple of hours to confirm all's well.  From there de-grease & get as much of the loose paint off as you can.  If you really want to get ALL the old paint off, spray unscented Easy-Off oven cleaner on the offending areas. It works like a charm.  Degrease engine again (brake cleaner works well), then prime & repaint.  Keep the engine beautiful by watching for any water/fuel leaks and addressing them promptly. 

  While the engine is out, now would be a good time to check for any leaks around the steering pedestal mounting points.  If they leaking, all your efforts on the engine will be wasted.

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Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Westerbeke 40 Rebuild?

« Last post by jpendoley on January 15, 2020, 09:18:53 AM »

I'm a noobie and knowingly open myself to humor in exchange to serious advice from all of you who have done this before.  For example: I dropped a 9/16 bolt into an exhaust port as I removed the manifold. That stopped all work while I went out to buy a telescoping magnet stick.  A real mechanic would have covered all openings with duct tape BEFORE something bad happened. I got lucky, the bolt is easily reachable, but lesson learned.

I'm surprised nobody has warned me away from blasting the block with soda or glass beads.  I have this fantasy of an engine painted snow white where all leaks are easily noticed before they become a serious problem.  Its currently a rusty, oily, paint flaking mess. Of course this would require sealing off the various exposed openings (see mistake above)-is there something really dumb about this idea ?

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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Cockpit Locker Hinges

« Last post by Dale Tanski on January 15, 2020, 07:55:34 AM »

Stock hinges did not have removable pins.  A short length of bungee attached to the locker lid that slips around the winch will keep the lid from closing. Works like a charm.
Dale