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You nailed it, spinnaker winches.
Hull #40
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Post fuel filter replacement priming
« Last post by Jordan on July 03, 2020, 10:43:17 PM »
Okay! I replaced (again) the secondary fuel filter. With all of the thoughts rattling around my head, I wanted to be sure of the gaskets. Again, the new filter had 2 o-rings and 3 gaskets in two sizes. I found an old puralator filter box. We bought a carquest one initially, and this most recent one was a wix. The Purolator box had a sheet of paper in it, explaining where the gaskets go. I'll scan it and upload it here. I didn't bother trying to fill it, since I bought a fuel pump. A boat neighbor recommended using Vaseline or something in the galley prior to installation. I tweaked my neck, and swore to replace that stupid cav filter, but I still managed to change that filter and all o-rings and gaskets without spilling a drop of diesel! It turns out a plastic grocery bag with the oil absorbent rags makes it less messy (still a PITA). Tomorrow, the pump gets installed, and I bleed the system. At some point, I want to pick brains on how to position oneself. My feet sweat, and I bash my foot on the thruhull as I slip around. This heat wave really sucks.
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Post fuel filter replacement priming
« Last post by Jordan on July 02, 2020, 11:19:11 AM »
All right. I have actions I can take!! That complete loss of knowing what to do was getting me down. I think I might need to allot more time for research of any issue. Anyway, after pouring through the bleeding issues, I have decided that I am going to start from scratch with the Secondary Fuel Filter. I may not have kept good track of the O-Rings being included. So my troubleshooting steps are as follows (since the issue is she won't start).

1. Purchase new Secondary Fuel Filter from Advance Auto (I will use this table to find a compatible one).
2. Install new filter and all O-rings without trying to fill the filter with diesel.
3. Install either a 12 volt fuel pump or a bulb priming pump right after the Racor filter. I may purchase locally for a premium, but that's because I'm getting impatient living on a boat that I can't get out of the slip, and I have a 3 day weekend. However, if I were to get a bulb pump, I think I would get this one. If I go the electric route, I think something like this would work.
4. Purchase a wobble extension set from Harbor Freight (I had these before, but sold them when getting rid of everything) like this and this.
5. Identify a tool to consistently and easily measure the ID and OD of lines (a lifetime plumber who lives on the same dock is going to be providing me advice here, and I'm not good enough to eyeball it). It's called a micrometer.
6. Check the 1977 Westerbeke manual service bulletins about bleeding the system (#3 from SVJourney). That bulletin was released in 1972, but this is a 1977, so I want to make sure I check. I may have missed it.

I recently redid the solar connection to the batteries, and now have a couple of big alligator terminal clips. I think I'll use these to provide power temporarily, and maybe install a switch.

Anyone see anything wrong with this idea?

Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Post fuel filter replacement priming
« Last post by Jordan on July 02, 2020, 06:55:51 AM »
I actually remembered what svjourney said about that secondary filter. I actually did it twice. If it's as finicky as you said, maybe that's it. I can try again. And the better half is making some runs today, so I'll have her pickup a fuel pump. We were already thinking about it. Does that mean I wouldn't need to try and fill that filter with diesel?
Engine - Non Specific / Re: Racor Cross Reference - Additional Documents
« Last post by jpendoley on July 02, 2020, 05:40:10 AM »
This is invaluable-I lost days chasing my tail trying to find the correct fitting for my FG500. Thank you for posting-great resource.
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Post fuel filter replacement priming
« Last post by jpendoley on July 02, 2020, 05:10:31 AM »
Listen to SVJourney very carefully. That little fuel filter will stall you every time if the o ring is installed on the filter and not on the housing-and I don't recall the manual stressing that enough.  Also, you will break your heart and lose a ton of time trying to fill the filter with the hand pump on the engine mounted fuel pump.  Its driven off lobes on the cam, if the cam lobe is not in the right spot, it doesn't pump. Half a crank and it will pump- BUT each stroke delivers a tiny amount of fuel. Most folk install an electric fuel pump that they use for priming or just run it in tandem with the engine mounted fuel pump. Makes priming and bleeding a breeze.  About $60 from Facet.  They make many models-you want one that has a check valve that won't let fuel drain back into the tank but will let the engine mounted original pump pull fuel through it. I'll get you the Facet  pump part number when I go to the boat today. I can prime and bleed my Westerbeke in 5 minutes-before I installed the electric I struggled for hours just like you. The Westerbeke is a great little power plant, but understanding and mastering fuel delivery is absolutely critical.
The Foley spin on adapter does help-no more foolishness with o-rings, but the electric pump for priming (and running if you want) makes priming and bleeding a breeze.
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Post fuel filter replacement priming
« Last post by SVJourney on July 02, 2020, 02:50:09 AM »
1) The Beke is a bitch to bleed.  You may think you have it, but good chance you don't.  One small bubble and it won't start.

2)  You can easily mess up the eng fuel filter when changing it and not know it.  If you put the o-ring on the filter instead of inside the filter housing it will never start.  (learn from my and several others fail)  You will still see fuel when bleeding but you have blocked the filter and it won't start.  Take the filter back off, install the o-ring in the housing, reinstall and rebleed.

3)  Bleed in accordance with this service bulletin:
Part numbers and prices too please?
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Cockpit winches
« Last post by S/V AMITY on July 01, 2020, 01:30:39 PM »
  On non-staysail rigged 365's I usually see two primary winches mounted on the fwd. end of the cockpit coamings.   I also see some with 4 winches.  Why the two extra winches?  Amity came with the 4-winch setup and while I have them off for refinishing the teak I'm wondering what the 4 winch config. was for.  Possibly for spinnaker handling?  Any info. much appreciated.
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