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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / 1981 Pearson 367 For Sale $25000
« Last post by SV Alfresco on January 17, 2021, 09:19:06 AM »
I hate to sell this but due to new circumstances in my life I'm forced to do so. I am just listing it here for about a week and after will go to a wider audience. I've have some work in progress ( fresh water lines to the sinks and shower)  that I may not be able to finish but I think all the important stuff is present. The boat is located in north central Massachusetts.

Mike
978-512-9344

Mechanical
Yanmar 3JH4E 39hp unknown exact hours but likely less than a thousand
ZF transmission
Walter V-Drive just rebuilt by Walter and installed and aligned by a professional
PSS dripless shaft seal (new)
New cutlass bearing
Gori 2-blade folding propeller (new)

Electrical
2 AGM batteries
Balmar regulator
Small trickle charge solar panel

Sails
Main Hood almost new, used lightly for 3 years
Jib Hood, 100%, Yankee cut, 2 years old
Staysail Hood, 2 years old
Asymmetrical Spinner with sock


Storage
EMT frame built with Kover Klamps (new)
Vinyl cover bought from Kover Klamps (new, should be good for 5 years)
Set of Brownell stanchions
Keel Blocking
New Kuuma 6 gallon hot water heater
All new pex water lines with Whale quick-connect fittings.
New faucets for head, shower, and galley sinks.

New macerator pump
New Rule shower drain kit
New raw water strainer
Raritan head and new holding tank 6 years ago
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I worked with a machine shop to have davits made using square aluminum tubing. They also attach to the stern rail. There is an electric winch under the deck for each davit.
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I replaced the deck drains a few years ago with these https://www.jmsonline.net/thru-hull-90-deg-1-1-2.htm/ Conbraco 90 degree bronze thru hulls. I do wish there was room for a seacock.
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You are using a bilge pump to empty the head?  Whatever works, lol.  I imagine you probably have a pin hole in the diaphragm.

If you use a macerator pump at the discharge from the head you will need at least one joker valve between the head and the pump.  My electric marine elegance head had 2 joker valves in line. Though I haven't tried it, I can imagine the explosive fountain coming out of your head without one.  Otherwise I can't see how it wouldn't work just fine.
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Oops. I started working backwards, from the panel, moving back towards the battery. Thought I was just about finished, just got to go back to the positive out on the isolator, right?

Can anyone guess who just pulled out the new battery and battery box in order to leave no single wire unknown? Kind of zoning today, so I might actually get it done today, but we'll see.
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Hello all-

I just rebuilt my Mk5 in the head and I can NOT keep it completely sealed. It worked flawlessly for two days then started leaking again. I'm really flummoxed. This system is so simple and I'd say I'm a solid 8.5 / 10 on marine mechanical prowess. Everything looks, sounds and works great when I have the pump out. But once I get everything back together, I'm getting leakage on the dry side of the diaphragm and it leaks out of the drain hole on the back. (I also installed new hoses, BTW.)

I'm wondering if there's a way to just replace the Mk5 with a macerator. Preferably right down at the discharge port on the head, but any whichaway that works is fine with me.

Has anyone tried this?

Thanks-

Chris
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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Dinghy options?
« Last post by S/V Legacy on January 13, 2021, 03:08:08 PM »
I have a 9.9 fourstroke paired up with my dingy. I went the cheap route to save a few bucks (Newport vessel, its 9'6" and PVC but a very well built boat. I just know it wont last for more than 3-4 years most likely. So far after a year it still looks great. I intend to buy a good Hypalon inflatable with an aluminum bottom, before I leave to cruise)

 While the 9.9 4 stroke is a great engine, its heavy as hell. Weighs in right at 100lbs, which can be a bit to handle transferring from dingy to boat. I used my mizzen boom as a lift point and it works well. Also take in consideration the weight of that dingy too. Glass bottom ribs tend to weigh more than aluminum.  I thought i was being slick buying an inflatable bottom with a plywood floor, thinking it would weigh much less... nope weighs about the same if not more.
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I have a ketch, and normally keep my dingy up on the cabin top. It can be a real pain getting it up and down from there, and it really affects my forward vision.

Thanks for the coolant info, I had a feeling it was standard coolant. I have seen some posts about a coolant that was used at one time that would gel up in the system. Just wanna make sure I dont make that mistake.
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Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Dinghy options?
« Last post by Jordan on January 13, 2021, 12:45:38 PM »
Damn, that's a fancy dinghy. I do think that I'm going to cough up the money for a rigid hull (not sure if aluminum or fiberglass, although I'm partial to fiberglass). I really want to sell our car, and this is a big step in that direction.
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I'd think fixed, but honestly, Dale would know best I think.
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