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Messages - Dale Tanski

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871
Kevin,
Yes and no... but here are a few things to think about.
I have been working on this problem since the moment I heard the engine run, but there is more than meets the ear. There are several problems with reducing the sound levels on a P365, and there is no out of the box solution that will do much of anything.  
First off there are two objectives that I have been addressing.  One is the sound down below deck and the second is the noise you hear in the cockpit while underway. There are several areas that need to be addressed.  For one, the engine does not sit in an enclosed area, and each opening will pipe the sound somewhere else.  There is a huge opening to each of the cockpit lockers and under the cockpit floor, and there is the large opening to the bilge area.  All of these need to be closed off.    I installed an insulated  “firewall” when I replaced my fuel tank, so I have eliminated the migration of sound to under the cockpit floor.  I am working on enclosing each side where my firewall meets the rear bulkhead to close off the cockpit lockers.  I have found that the underside of the bridge deck also needs to be insulated as it acts as a drum transferring sound into the cockpit.  I have made much progress in reducing noise to the cockpit.
The interior problem greatly relies on properly sealing and insulating the engine “box”.  Minimizing the noise that is transferred to the cabin via any opening is the goal.  The bilge area is the most difficult to accomplish.  The requirement for the drive shaft makes the bilge section a nightmare.  Installing multiple insulated baffles that the sound must go up and around, only to run into another baffle will help there. This key to solving the problem is just a matter of patients and constant improvements, stopping the transfer of sound where ever it can escape.  The idea is to enclose the sound in an insulated box and let the insulation absorb the noise.  As a side note, as you improve the enclosure around the engine, it is important to ensure proper air flow into and out of the box for proper engine operation and removal of heat.  You may have to add an additional or larger ventilation blower.
This leads us to one last problem… vibration.  The entire boats structure transfers the engine vibrations.  Any panel, bulkhead or surface that is light enough, acts like a loudspeaker and converts the vibration into sound when it vibrates.  Even the standing rigging sings when the engine is running.  This vibration problem will probably be the biggest one to reduce.  I have been looking into better engine mounts to minimize vibration to the main stringers.  This would be the biggest upgrade and yield the most improvement in transferred vibration.
I hope some of this makes sense and helps in your quest for silence.
Dale Tanski

872
Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Yes!
« on: December 25, 2007, 01:16:40 PM »
I second that...  This site rocks and is one I check every day.  Thanks for making it happen Rich.  I hope everyone had a great Christmas.  Happy holidays to all!
Dale Tanski

873
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Navpod
« on: October 18, 2007, 12:21:36 PM »
Garner,
Question on your Navpod AG10.  In the picture on your web site, is that the stock height or did you cut it down at all?  I am looking to do the same thing for my chart plotter (Simrad took very good care of me and I have the 6" unit) but it will involve an offset pedestal guard.  Yours looks perfect.  The Edson offset pedestal guard looks excessively high.  It is listed as 58" high.  
Sorry I missed you guys down in Annapolis by the way, looked like fun and I would have loved to shake all of your hands and meet you.  Next year for sure.
I have narrowed down the mast pulpit design.  I like the Slocum 43 version and I was on a Mason 43 in Annapolis that was also very nice.  It is amazing how few pulpits are out there.  Island Packet has them, but I do not like the way they look.  I am bending up a conduit prototype and will post a few pictures when I get that done.
Dale

874
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Sails
« on: October 17, 2007, 03:48:54 PM »
It seems like there are a number of threads on this site lately that touch on the purchase of new sails.  Maruska is a ketch with the factory clubfoot staysail option.  I took ownership of the boat with a very mixed assortment of manufactures sails aboard.  Our inventory covers the major lofts with the exception of North & UK.  The oldest being the mizzen staysail, its manufacture’s tag obscured with age, and the newest being a Doyle full battened mizzen.  

Although at first apprehensive about owning a fully battened cruising sail, having had mixed experience with high performance full battens in beach cats, it is an excellent sail and I recommend it in a mizzen application where a flatter cut is desirable.  The full battens allow me to adjust the draft as desired to minimize luffing uphill in the spoils of the main.
Our headsail is a well worn 2nd or third replacement 150 furling sail that I have not warmed up to.  As it turns out, we sail almost exclusively utilizing the staysail.  Because of the staysails self tending configuration, it proves itself in additional area on lighter days, improving the boats ability to claw to windward (as much as a 365 ketch could ever hope) and when the wind pipes up, is the headsail of choice.  Combining the staysail with the 150 just doesn’t make sense if you read any of the cutter/staysail info that has been brought this forum as of late.  Quite frankly, the only reason I can see having a 150 aboard a cruising boat with a cutter rig, is if you sail often under headsail alone because of its ability to roller furl, and you leave the main and hank on staysail under the horse blanket.  Honestly, I do not want to crank in a 150, and it doesn’t like to tack through the slot left between the head stay and the inner stay.  Earlier on, I contemplated upsizing my primary winches because of the beastly 150 as my family just can’t swing the handle.  Even I have trouble with the 43’s if the wind is in the teens.  

We race the family J-22 with a complete Doyle inventory exclusively, as do the majority of J-22’s in Buffalo.  Doyle out of Cleveland, Ohio has been good to us not only in pricing and delivery, but has been outstanding in support both on water and off as well as the numerous repairs that follow a well or even more so, a poorly campaigned race boat.  I have developed an excellent relationship with the staff at Doyle Cleveland, and after little satisfaction at the Annapolis Show inquiring about other ideas and opinions for a replacement headsail for the 365, am once again about to place a new sail order with Doyle.  

They have quoted me a Yankee, high clew, 115% headsail, with foam luff, luff tape for my furler, white UV protection, 7.4 oz. Dacron for $2100.  The sail will yield 320 sqft and because of its high cut clew, improve forward visibility and minimize the obstruction as it passes around the inner stay.  I suspect due to the interaction with the staysail and proper headsail, our performance will actually improve even though we opted to reduce the headsails area by approximately 30%.  On top of all this, my existing winches will now be more than adequate, and if I do desire to carry a rolled headsail to balance the helm, it will retain a reasonable shape rolled 25% as opposed to rolling a 150 75% to achieve the same desired results.  

I have been up and down on what to do regarding my head sail situation, now thank goodness it is on to new ports!  Doyle has once again filled in the answers for me when it comes to sail questions and choices and I didn’t have to be a cup campaign, or gold platter to attract their attention.  They took the time to study and understand the humble 30+ year young Pearson 365 cruiser and the sailing desires of its 50+ owner. I highly recommend contacting Brad Hollingsworth @ Doyle Cleveland, 716-447-9766 in your quest for answers and solutions on which sail to purchase.
Good Sailing...   Dale Tanski

875
I am not sure what the factory ladder looked like, but I am thinking minus the twang to starboard, this is it.  As far as ladders go, this one is all but useless.  The only positive thing is that you could say at the time of the sale of the boat "it has a ladder".  


I worked with Jerry at Tops-n-Quality out of Michigan, and they did a custom redesign.  The beauty of the new ladder is that it fit the existing mounting holes in the transom.  As you can see, the new ladder provides plenty of steps below the water line for easy egress and folds nicely equal in height with the stern rail.  The details of construction are outstanding.  They build in 304 or 316, and each ladder is available in round or flattened rungs, or they can provide steps.  I am making my own wooden steps.  The ladder as seen can be had for right around $450 and Jerry has retained the design and can build you one in around three weeks.  In short, I am thrilled with this product!  

Please Note - This ladder was built by Tops in Quality.  Unfortunately they are basically out of business today.  I do have the drawing and would be glad to forward it to you if you would like.  Dale





Just a bit of an update, the sticks go up the 11th and we splash the 18th of May!
Good Sailing...   Dale Tanski

876
The Rebirth Of Maruska as seen in Good Old Boat Magazine / Henri
« on: February 07, 2007, 09:59:11 PM »
Henri,
Thanks so much for all the kind comments.  

Oil filter – There is a remote filter option available for the 4-107 and I would assume most other engines.  It allows you to place the oil filter in a more convenient accessible location.  It includes an aluminum manifold that screws on the oil filter threaded nipple where your oil filter is located now.  It has two threaded holes for hoses, that go to a bracket mounted base for the stock oil filter.  This allows you to mount the oil filter vertically with the mating face up.  This minimizes spillage, as the filter is unscrewed.  I found that a windshield washer fluid plastic jug, with the bottom cut off and the cap screwed on, makes a great funnel/oil catcher that you can hold underneath with your free hand while you remove the filter.  The remote mount can go anywhere the hoses can reach.  The hoses only need to take the heat (approx 200 degrees F) and minimum pressure (80 psi).  Hydraulic hoses work fine.  
If you can’t locate one of these kits, or a kit is no longer available, let me know and I will look into making you one.  

Fuel pressure switch – It sounds like you have possibly bypassed your early warning system by hot wiring it to the key (positive power source) thus eliminating the low oil pressure switch and high temperature switch.  I don’t have the engine manual with me at home, but I think you meant that it closed the circuit for the engine gages and the alarm system once the fuel pressure was up to snuff.  Unfortunately, Westerbeke had several wiring schemes for their W40 over the years.  They at one time used oil pressure to control the same circuits.  Mine was so bad I just ditched the whole thing, but I did have remnants of both systems and a heater element in the air intake for cold weather starting.  Westerbeke also had an either injector system available.  
I have simplified it down to… a water temp sender for a temperature gage, an oil pressure sender for an oil pressure gage and a Normally Open oil pressure switch to run an LCD hour meter.  When the oil pressure goes above 10 psi the LCD hour meter runs.  Before I am finished, I will install a switch for over temp alarm.  
I am not even running a tachometer.  This is for several reasons.  First of all, most sailors listen for RPM.  Who really gives a rip if you are running at 2100 or 2300 rpm, it is the knots you are after.  Besides, most drivelines have a few sweet spots we run them that at because they run quieter there, less vibration.  I understand that a tach will give you feedback about a slipping transmission, but only if you know what you are looking for.  It could be weeds on the prop or cavitation.  
This is my own personal choice, and I am sure many of you are groaning right about now.  The other reason that I eliminated the tach, is that it is electrically driven off of the alternator field winding output.  A certain output relates to a certain RPM.  I machined a set of double pulleys for my engine to spin a 120 amp Balmar alternator.  You must run a double sheave setup or the new style automotive flat belt to transmit enough horsepower, and it just can’t be done with a single belt unless you get up into “D” series profiles.  “D” profiles don’t like the small radius that are required.  Lots of guys cheat, and install a turnbuckle tensioning system to up the belt tension on a single belt setup when they bolt on a high amp alternator.  This does help, but it eats belts like crazy.  They fail from thermal loading (prematurely turn to ash) because the belt length is short (longer means a longer time to dissipate heat) and you are now forcing the belt to transmit the horsepower required by the alternator.  They slip for a reason!  Hiding the symptom does not help.  Perkins / Westerbeke has technical bulletins that site crank breakage where turnbuckle tensioners are installed due to the high moment (side) loading from the increased belt tension.  
Anyway… I made new, large diameter double pulleys.  The larger diameters do two things.  One it provides larger radius which equates to increased horsepower transfer and longer belt life.  At the same time, they overdrive my alternator.  This means my alternator turns slightly faster than it normally would at any given engine running RPM.  This means more amp output at lower RPM’s.  Who doesn’t want that? I would have to go back and look at my drawings and calculations, but I think I am overdriving by approx. 15%.  So… if I used a standard electronic diesel tach, my RPM numbers would be way off.  
I hope and think that I answered your questions.  
Dale Tanski

877
The Rebirth Of Maruska as seen in Good Old Boat Magazine / Thanks
« on: February 07, 2007, 08:35:03 PM »
You guys gotta stop.  I am envious of your finished boats.  I look at Sea Dragon with all of her shiny new self-tailers, perfect waxed hull and matching canvas Garner.  And you Doug, with Rocinante and her state of the art wide screen LCD nav station complete with waterproof keyboard and her dual furlers haven’t gone unnoticed.  Kevin’s Pan Dragon that looks perfect and has sails that all look new and every one has a matching Doyle logo!  Henri, I would graciously trade Windriders "to look into list" for my "oh my god, I still gatta do this before..." list.  And Rich with Third Day, your web prowess and your connections with marine equipment suppliers and the goodies you have already acquired make me drool.  
And all of you have sailed your boats, something I have yet to do.  I can only sit there in a gutted out hull and dream.  I can make an engine run like new and look pretty, string some mean wiring and make lots of sawdust, but that is all nothing but a little labor and lots of trial and error over the years.  

By the way... You can indeed get the back articles about Maruska from Good Old Boat.  I highly recommend that you do subscribe however, as I have since the first issue that I picked up several years ago.  They are a down to earth publication that is just full of boaters that love and work on their own boats just like all of us do.  I would also hope you kindly mention that you like the Maruska series.

Dale Tanski

878
The new fuel tank ready to install. This one was made out of 5052 Aluminim by a Sheet Metal builder (Billings Sheetmetal) in Olean, New York. I have a complete AutoCAD drawing if any one needs it. My tank has an extra fuel pick up point for my ESAPAR heater. The gray is a two part epoxy coating.

The area where the tank sits was cleaned and epoxy coated. The forward bulkhead in the tank box was removed to get the old tank out. The aluminum angle that you can see is for the new rear engine room firewall and mizzen support.

The new tank is in place at the point and the forward bulkhead panel is also back in place.

I installed new 1" wide stainless straps up and over the tank side to side. The old straps went fore and aft. The black plastic corner fitting protects the tank from the strap. They are used in shipping departments to protect cardboard box corners from packing strap.
New tank in place and finished. The tank itself cost me around $500. I built all of the fuel pick-up fittings and hold down straps.



I will dig that drawing up and try to post it. The story behind the story is that I decided to build the replacement tank. What the heck, I have welded all kinds of stuff, so weld I did. Unfortunately under the 5psi pressure test it leaked, and leaked and leaked. The more I fixed it the more it leaked. It was at this point that I contacted Billings Sheet Metal and asked them to make me one. I went back and researched the whole fiasco and discovered that I wasn't using the proper fill rod and the aluminum was changing molecular structure with the heat. Apparently, the correct filler rod would have provided the proper alloy to counter act that problem. I made my own fuel pickups. A standard weatherhead (manufacture's name avaliable at NAPA) was drilled out to accept a stainless tube and then the tube was silver soldered into the fitting.

Dale

879
The Rebirth Of Maruska as seen in Good Old Boat Magazine / Ice Box
« on: February 05, 2007, 12:49:11 PM »
Here is a picture of the corner I mentioned.  

880
The Rebirth Of Maruska as seen in Good Old Boat Magazine / More stuff
« on: February 05, 2007, 12:38:30 PM »
Thanks Rich...  A couple other little details that can be seen in the last photograph.
1)   You can see the beginnings of the "double width" engine cowl.  I looked and looked at 365's and felt with the exception of the double sink, the larger galley sink cabinet was a mistake.  It totally eliminated engine access to one very important side of the motor.  So… I decided that I would downsize the galley cabinet and up size the engine cowl.  It will have an up hinging top that incorporates a top loading storage locker on the starboard side and a pull out cutlery drawer on the port side.  The slanted front panel will totally lift out once the top is lifted up. The only downside that I could see was the loss of one bowl of the sink.  For this reason we are limited to a single bowl sink, but who wants to do dishes any way?  A mesh bag over the stern and in a half an hour of dragging and the dishes are perfect!
2)   If you remember the icebox, or at least that half of it was gone when I got the boat.  If you look closely you will note that the new ice box carcass is installed in this picture, and I built it with round corners.  You can see the African Pear Wood paneling with the kerf cuts in the back of it to allow me to bend it around the outside radius.  I did this to match the starboard bunk base corner that was round from the factory. But… that is another story…

881
The Rebirth Of Maruska as seen in Good Old Boat Magazine / Westerbeke 4-107
« on: February 05, 2007, 11:52:44 AM »
I ran the engine prior to pulling it out of the boat.  No smoke, no bad noises.  After I got it home if became obvious that it had been rebuilt at one time or another.  I pulled the rocker cover and did a full inspection of the valve train and lashed the valves.  Cylinder compression checked out.  I didn’t have or want to spend the money for a rebuild so I replaced some gaskets, thermostat, hoses and the raw water impeller and buttoned it back up.  A half a dozen cans of paint remover and it was ready for paint.


 
The nipple on the exhaust manifold looked questionable and so did the custom water injection manifold.  


The nipple would not come out and because I ruined the threads trying, I resorted to more drastic measures.


I resorted to the old hack saw blade trick to cut a slot and allow the nipple to implode on itself.  The real trick is not to go too deep and wreck the threads in the manifold, thus the hack saw blade by hand.


Once the grove is cut, pressure with the wrench collapsed the nipple and it popped right out.


For the record the engine does fit nicely into a Honda CRV.  I used the main boom and picked it up and drove the truck out from underneath it. You can barely see the custom set of double grove alternator drive pulleys.

The key to reinstalling the engine turned out to be a U-shaped hanger that I welded up out of some 2"x2" square stock.  This allowed me to lift the engine and slide it under the bridge deck.  The lifting chain held the bulk of the weight off of the two lifting brackets on the engine, and the tunicate held the output shaft and allowed me to adjust the hanging angle (by twisting the rope) to match the angle of the bunks with the board.


Once the engine was in rough position I readjusted the position of the U-hanger, lifted the tailshaft by hand and guided (pushed) the engine right into place.

I drilled the nuts on the drive shaft connection and safety wired them together with stainless wire.  I can’t imagine what would happen if the drive shaft ever parted from the transmission tail shaft while at RPM! Better safe than sorry.

Done for now... Oh ya... The Engine was shot in a two part Dupont Imron polyurethane, and yes that is a custom polished billet aluminum oil filler cap.  It was made by a good friend of mine by the name of Nick Powers.  He made what you see, hollowed out the back side and pressed the ugly stock cap into it.  The heat exchanger is a stock exchanger that I shot in silver Imron.  Eat your hearts out!

882
The Rebirth Of Maruska as seen in Good Old Boat Magazine / Walter V-Drive
« on: February 04, 2007, 06:15:24 PM »
The V-Drive was full of water.  If you are familiar with the smell of rotting silage, you were there.  It had been run in this condition because the output bearing and seal was wiped out.  It was so bad that the output shaft was grooved where the seal rode.  A “tire” was machined out of 304 stainless to fix the area.  The shaft was cut down on a lathe, and the tire was pressed on to the machined step.  The OD (outside diameter) was turned on the lathe to match the original.  I replaced all of the seals, bearings and U-Joints that I purchased from Walter.  The bill was around $250.  I made all my own new gaskets.

This is what a dissembled Walter V-Drive looks like.

I coated the inside of the box with a product called GKYPTAL.  It is used to insulate and coat electrical motors and allows oil to drain quicker on internal combustion engines.  You typically see it on show car engines.  I did it to protect the inside of the box and because it looks pretty!

The output shaft was damaged where the input seal rode.  I suspect that it got wet with bilge water while it was running and washed the internal lube away.  The bearing was next to go and the seal housing did the damage.  This is similar to what you see on trailer wheel bearing spindles when the inner grease seal goes.  

The "tire" was installed and turned to match the shafts diameter.  Better than new literally because the tire is made of stainless.

My son Eric installing the box.  Better him than me, it was in the 90's in the boat that day with that famous Chesapeake Bay humidity.

I replaced the output coupling shaft hex bolts with socket head cap screws because it is nearly impossible to tighten the hex bolts.  The allen are so much easier.  You can see the stainless safety tie wire.  Better safe than sorry.  

Done

883
Don,
Thanks so much!  
Dale Tanski

884
I took a quick look at your electrical distribution system.  One thing I noticed…  You can not isolate you Xantrex inverter.  If your battery switch is on from your house group, your inverter will be on.  Even if you are not using 120vac, the inverter will eat power.  I would suggest installing a Blue Seas 9012 in the circuit so that you can shut down your inverter with a flick of a switch.  Also, with your house batteries off, can your start battery back feed through the Blue Seas parallel panel once again into your inverter?

I also glanced at your list of materials.  The latest standard uses red and yellow for DC.   The thought process is that AC wiring (in the same boat) is black and white, and just looking at a cable run you can discriminate DC vrs AC wiring by the outside jacket if you use red (+) and yellow (-) for the DC side.  They are also using blue jacketed paired wire for DC.  This wire is know as “safety jacket” wire.  Once again, at a glance, you can tell the DC wiring by its blue jacket which contains red/yellow conductors and the AC wiring which is the standard white jacket containing black/white/green conductors.

Dale Tanski

885
Can any one please tell me the genoa track size (on the outside rail) on a ketch?  Is it 1" or 1 1/4".  I am 370 miles away from the boat and need to know...  Thanks.  Dale Tanski

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