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Messages - Dale Tanski

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Using a seizing wire to hold shrouds in place at the end of a spreader is a common method in smaller boats.  Another method we like is when the rig builder uses a small plate held in place with screws at the end of the spreader.  The plate captures and holds the shrouds that ride in the slot at the end of the spreader.  I’ll have to look at my spreaders, but I believe that you can flatten the spreader end slightly for a spot to drill and tap the screw holes to hold the plate.  Any 2 hole plate such as a backer plate will work. 

Let me look at my spreaders and I will get back to you.


That's the ticket!

Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: Anchor / wooden
« on: March 24, 2021, 08:02:43 AM »
Somewhere along the way there were photos of the bow sprit refurbishment I did on Maruska, but I cannot find them now.  I preemptively made the modifications after reading all of the problems owners had with overloading and damaging the anchor sprit.

In short, what I did is remove the cross bolts (threaded rod) that hold all of the strips of teak together.  I then routed out a groove (with a router) in each of the continuous length strips. The grove was close to the depth of the wood itself.  I then inserted stainless flat strips into the grooves. The groove and the strips were sized appropriately so that the strip fit snug and completely inside the wood.  You could only see the strips from the bottom of the sprit. I then roughed up the surface of the stainless strips with a sander and coated the strips with epoxy bedding them into each groove.  I re-drilled the cross holes through the stainless strips to re-insert the threaded rods and replugged the teak end holes.  The 5 or 6 stainless strips on edge embedded into the teak assembly were strong enough to drive a car across and I often keep the load of the boat on the outer roller.

Just another way around it all...

Dale Tanski
Hull #40

It would appear that the boat spent lots of time with a rig that was tensioned way too little, allowing the spreaders to bounce back and forth with each wave.  When the uppers are tensioned properly, the spreaders are held in place by the compressive loads on the spreader and typically never move about. 

Yes, your holes are worn, very worn.  The tell tail flaring of the trailing edge against the mast (bell shaped) is huge give a way of the rocking back and forth.  My guess is someone along the way in owners had a wooden boat and was used to slack shrouds, and carried that train of thought over to a boat that doesn’t pull itself out of shape (hog) with heavier rig tension. 

The holes can indeed be welded in and re-drilled to establish the correct inner diameter.  I just had another thought however… How handy are you? My guess is because you even recognized this issue, your mechanical skill sets are a bit above most.  You could fix this yourself without welding.  You could drill out the holes and insert flanged bushings into the new oversized holes that would give you the correct inner diameter.  Go to McMaster Carr and search for "Sleeve Bearings".  Then click on the picture of "Flanged Bearings " in the left hand margin under “Bearing Type”. Scroll down and select "Corrosion-Resistant Flanged Sleeve Bearings" in the lowest "Flanges Sleeve Bearings" category.  Here you will find 954 Aluminum-Bronze Bearings.  Select the correct "shaft diameter" which is you pin diameter, and then select the next "Housing ID" which would be the size of the hole you re-drill your existing holes.  The flange will keep the bearing in place and all you will have to do is file or sand on a belt sander the bearing portion until it becomes the correct depth and allows the spreader base to slide into the spreader.  Aluminum-Bronze is nice and hard but will not be so hard that you cannot "remove" some of it easily. 

My spreaders are laying at my shop so if you need me to recommend a sleeve, just let me know.  If this is outside of your wheel house we can do it for you.  Welding is the most permanent solution I suppose, but it will take far longer, cost more and ruin the anodize on the spreader itself.  This might be the excuse you need to paint them anyway.  One advantage to the bearing insert is that 40 years from now the next owner can pop them out and replace them with a fresh set. 

One other thing…  Traditionally spreader pins are standard clevis pins with a head on one end which is what you have.  Sometimes they even used riggers pins which have holes and rings on either end with no head.  There is no reason that you cannot use a stainless bolt and NYLOK nut in place of the pins.  You should/must use a bolt that is not threaded all the way to the head as the threads act like a file if there is any movement.  Select a bolt that has a smooth shank as long as you can get it just so there are threads sticking out. Cut the remainder of the threaded section out just above the NYLOK nut.  We typically install the nut on the bolt and then cut off the remainder of the threaded section of the bolt.  A bolt method has several advantages.  One is that you can apply some tension and slightly tighten (not crush) that connection and increase the resistance to movement of the spreader to spreader base connection.  The snugged up bolt also does not move around creating additional wear as time goes on and there are no rings to get snagged and accidentially removed or cotters to get out. 

Hope this all helps.
Good Sailing

Dale @ Obersheimers

Finding exact replacements will be very difficult to obtain.  We have taken old and "loose" spreaders and their mounts and TIG weld them to replace the missing material. We then remachine the parts to all fit the way it used to. 

If you could send us a few pictures of both ends I could ge a better feel for the amount of wear we are talking about.



(716) 877-8221

Are the "grounds" you are talking about for the 12 volt electrical items in/on the mast?  Or... are you talking about "grounding" the mast in the event of a lighting strike?

If you are talking about 12 volt electrical "grounds" or the negative side of the 12 volt supply, there is no reason why not.  I would recommend installing a "waterproof" junction box as high in the bilge as you can in that area and run all of your wiring into that box.  I did that and installed a terminal strip where all of the wires terminate in the event that the mast has to be removed. 

If you are talking lightening grounding/protection you are really talking about the bonding circuit that already exists within the boat.  Every through hull, chainplate, prop strut, engine etc. is connected through a bonding system (wires). That bonding system should terminate to a under the waterline plate that distributes the lightening charge into the surrounding water in the event of the strike.  Your mast step should already be connected to the bonding system via a bonding wire. 


Wow...  A job for the ages.  I love to hear about projects and how ambitious people like yourself go about them.  We have on average two customers a year tackle a bottom job.  Nothing as extensive as you are doing, but at least the removal of decades of bottom paint and then install a barrier coat system with a repaint.  Each and every time the customer will say it was more than worth it as a smooth bottom is a great selling and performance item. 

We coach them by stressing it is a 20 minute a day project.  They always look at us confused and we explain that every day on your way home from work, you stop for a 20 minute scrape session.  We caution that if you do an all dayer, you won’t be back for days and the project will take longer in the big scheme of time. It is a huge project for sure but by the inch it is a cinch. 

I would recommend the Interlux 2000E.  The product is so very consistent almost to the point of constant predictability.  That’s a good thing because you don't want to do it again if something goes wrong.  I just finished a bottom late last week.  The temperature never got above 45 to 50 degrees and probably averaged in the mid 30’s.  I could apply coat after coat every hour or so even in that temperature.  That being said in 80 degrees one must be careful not to mix too much product at a time.  As you may be aware it comes in white and gray. This allows you to alternate the colors to assure complete coverage each and every time like they do when priming highway bridges.  I have been known to tint the white with gelcoat pigments for the same reason on a small job where I only need small amounts and having both the gray and white would be impractical.

I would also recommend the use of West Epoxy Systems roller covers.  They are the thin green/yellow foam that resists bubbling very well.  I have applied full gallons of 2000E with one roller cover.  Late this summer we had an issue getting West System covers due to the Covid debacle.  I read online that Redtree foam covers were highly recommended for 2 part paints and epoxy applications.  Our distributors were out of them as well, so I purchased the last 3 from our local West Marine.  Neither of those covers lasted more than 15 minutes before they developed a tumor or started removing themselves from the tube.  I rate them as poor, perhaps not much better than the black foam ones from a big box store.

Take your time and enjoy the journey.  You are correct a gelcoat peeler is a gift from God.  I don’t use ours very often but when we do it is a godsend.  When you are done with it you can sell it for what you paid for it.  Be safe...


I have attemped to answer your Code 0 question in a simple form but for several reasons I haven't been able to finish it.  I will eventually get there.


Tanks on my boat were seperate as well.  There were places where there was 1/2" of space between the hull and the tank.

For every gallon of water you have in your tank, it will require (absorb) 8.34 BTU's to raise that gallon 1 degree F. The big difficulties are the variables such as sea temp and refrigeration run time.  As the water in the tank rises, the lower the temperature differential between the expelled water out of the reefer unit gets and the tank temperature. This drops the efficiency rate of the reefer which means it will need to run longer. 
Also, the warmer the water in the tank the greater the risk of algae growth issues.  I'm sure the heat exchanger designed by the refrigerator manufacture is capable of handling the corrosive requirements of sea water. KISS.


Are you racing the boat?
If not a Code 0 will be of little use as it has a very narrow apparent wind angle.



Before Covid tempered glass was about three times the cost for the materials.  Bedding the replacement lens of course is the same one way or the other.  Often removing the old glazing is the bulk of the work. 

Since Covid and the massive requirements for all of the useless plexi barriers, the cost of acrylic has skyrocketed and the availability has become iffy at best.  Now I would guess it is going to be very similar in cost.

The glass does take longer as any holes and the rounding of the corners must be done with the glass in the raw state.  Once that is complete the piece is sent out to a tempering house.  Typical turnaround is 2 weeks. Once tempered it cannot be altered or adjusted. Glass is available in the several tints, typically green, blue, gray and bronze.


I will tell you that the more money you spend, the quieter and tolerable an electric head will be.  The less expensive units will sound like a rock crusher bolted to a section of sheet metal, something a late night visit will regret.  The big money units are almost tolerable.  They all do the deed with the push of a button which meets your first criteria.  Electric heads are also nice for "visitors" that can't or refuse to read the operating instructions of a typical manual pump head. 

Some of the units on the market now or that have been sold over the past several years have the "electric upgrade kit" available for them.  You could start out riding a plane jane and update it at a later date if you feel so compelled.
Don't forget that you will have to run suitable sized wire as per the manufactures specifications and add another breaker for that electrified wonder if you head that direction.

No... I will not make a recommendation of make/model or brand as I have not experienced enough of them to be helpful.


From a sail makers perspective the answer is yes.  Full battens are a plus for a mizzen.
A mizzen needs to be cut very flat because it lives in the deflected air of the main.  Full length battens help that cause. The apparent wind direction of the air coming off of the main requires the sail to be trimmed closer to center line.  To achieve this when close hauled often requires the boom to be above center and the sail to be trimmed in very tight.  The flatter the sail (less draft) the better.  Battens will help immensely.
The only drawback is the added weight when hoisting, but that maybe offset by the fact the sail will be easier to flake and put away.


You may want to consider tempered safety glass when replacing your hatch lenses.  Glass doesn't craze.Tempered glass is 10 times stronger than regular glass and safety glass has a thin plastic membrane between two panes of glass that keeps it all together if if is ever broken. 

I replace mine with glass and they are beautiful.  We replaced a set on a J-105 this summer and the improvement was impressive.  I just measured a Beneteau 40.7 to replace all of the hatches in that boat.


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