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Messages - Dale Tanski

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Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: Out Cruising-What works
« on: Today at 12:08:00 PM »
There is a 365 in Sawmill Bay Boatyard in Chaumont, NY listed on Craigslist for $28,500.  Also look at Snowgoose on Marketplace in Fairhaven, MA  for $23,000, very clean.




Let me ask some questions...
1) How is it the transmission case temperature is hotter than the internal temperature? If that was the case the housing is adding temp to the internals and transmission oil.
2) On the 4108 double cooler, each of the oil sections is separate for each other.  So, the acceptable engine temp is only an indication that the cooling water flow is sufficient.  Is the cooling water side of the tranny oil cooler plugged or restricted? Could be an object blocking the intake of the water side of the tranny cooler.
3) When is the last time the tranny oil was changed? Oil that has lost its lubrication properties (age, abuse) will run hotter. Could be that simple.
4) I believe that Velvet Drive, on that 71C, indicates the normal operating temp is between 140F to 190F.  Due to the weird temp readings at the transmission, what is the oil temp on the way to the heat exchanger?  On the way back?


Oil consumption can be a result of many items.  First... If I had a recently rebuilt engine and it consumed that much oil, (actually any oil) I too would be concerned. 

The first question I must ask is what does "recently rebuilt mean"?  Recent as in 1000 hours ago?  5 years ago? The next question I would have to ask is what does rebuilt mean?  Many a "rebuilt" engine consists of a degrease and a coat of paint.  Other rebuilds consist of the crankshaft seal replacement and a handful of gaskets fixing the leak problems.  Some are just a recalibration of the injector pump and work on the injectors and/or the replacement of the injectors.  The next step perhaps would be the top end rebuild which typically consist of re-lapping the valves and new valve stem seals, maybe even a truing of the head surface.  Then we get into a rebuild that consists of the re-honing of the cylinders and the installation of new piston rings.  Perhaps the installation of new cylinder sleeves and pistons depending on engine and finally crankshaft bearings and rod bearings. 

So... what does rebuilt mean?  Was it honed of sleeved?  Top end done? The difference can be hundreds and hundreds of dollars, additional usable hours and if it will continue to consume oil or not. 

The oil itself is a major variable.  I am a big believer in synthetic oil.  I use it in everything I own... almost.  The difference between a synthetic oil and conventional oil engine when you open that engine up is substantial.  I have tried synthetic oil in my 107 Perkins and it ate it like it was going out of style, very close to your consumption numbers. How much is a cup by the way?  I went back to a traditional oil rated for diesels and my consumption issue went away. 

In terms of "break-in", it all depends on what was done to the motor.  Oil consumption of the nature you are talking about is not a normal break-in consumption.  "Normal" consumption would be perhaps a fluid ounce over hundreds of hours. 

Does it smoke?  Blue in color?  Especially at cold start up?  These are all tell tails that indicate high hours and the rebuild was nothing more than a paint job.  If smoke is present then it could be valve seals, it also could be rings and cylinder condition.  Remember a diesel engine runs in access of 300 pounds per square inch of compression pressure approximately three times what your gasoline engine in your car runs at. 300 plus pounds is a real incentive for hot engine oil to escape and be incinerated in the exhaust.

So... I have raised lots more questions than provided solid answers.  Unless you have deep pockets and want that engine back to spec, try changing the oil and running a 15W-40 viscosity rating in a great brand like Rotella and see what happens. 

In the words of Captain Ron, Diesels love their oil like sailors love their rum!


Their web site shows a 15,000 pound boat has 107 cones and costs $1072.10, and a 20,000 pound boat has 116 cones and costs $1,150.30.  A 365 weighs approx 17,000 pounds plus stuff.  One can buy a lot of line to drag for $1150.30.  If you do the math it is $10 to $11 dollars per cone no matter what the count.  Call me skeptic but why the $.30?


Wow! The boat looks GREAT!

We just splashed a J-105 yesterday after many of the same trials and tribulations you mentioned painting the topsides outside this spring.  As you mentioned, any topside paint that gives you a beautiful shine is indeed non-forgiving when it comes to surface prep.  If there is even the slightest flaw it will be magnified tenfold with a high gloss topside paint.  Weather of course is the most unforgiving and uncontrollable nemesis one faces even if you have an indoor space to paint. 

Modern two-part polyurethanes have very narrow humidity and temperature parameters that need to be kept during application and initial cure.  Then there are the bugs.  UGH!  I paint enough that I have reached the point in life where bugs are just to be expected. I have also learned that when a bug declares your last coat home, just walk away.  Unless they are upright and you can pluck them out with a tweezers, you will probably do more harm than good trying to get them out.  This year we had an early bout with 80 plus degree temps. This did two things.  Accelerate the arrival of the waterfront bug population and yet another plague known as cottonwood.  Cottonwood are the seed pods released from the cottonwood tree and in season they resemble snow on the ground.  Because of the early high temps, instead of July 1st for the mass release the bugs and cottonwood, it began a month early.
I also applied two coats of high build epoxy primer in high 70 degree temps and the temperature plummeted into the upper 30’s by the next morning.  In my 50 years of painting I have never reached out for help but that occurrence prompted me to contact Awlgrip to sort through the damage.  You will learn something new with every paint job… EVERY PAINT JOB!  What a boat looks like when I get finished with it is just a culmination of the number of mistakes that I made on prior boats.   Unfortunately there is always something new to learn.

It is also so great to see someone as ambitious as you.  You’re damn straight it is/was brutal job.  Fairing a bottom is an art form and a half, measured in the number of applications of filler, sheets of sand paper and hour upon hours of using up that paper.  If you have ever finished drywall, that is a walk in the park compared to fairing a boat.  If it’s a racing bottom, a long board is the final answer and an aching back and arms is only one of the final results. 

The cost is also a problem as you mentioned.  The cost of materials are no longer incidental. Masking tape on a project like yours (good quality not the blue paper based tape crap) can add up to hundreds of dollars alone.  Sand paper, tack clothes, reducer, fillers and even dust masks all add up.  Then there is the cost of labor.  How much would you charge to do that job again for somebody else?  Keep in mind they will ask you every day “is it done yet?”.  The time and money does not come out of the customers pocket when all goes bad and you have to back up and redo.  When I quote such jobs the typical reply is “the whole boat isn’t worth that!” sadly most often they are correct.  $7000 for the job is more than reasonable for what it did to the value of the boat.  For those of you that are reading this thinking we are insane, a top quality topsides paint job is right around $1000 per foot.  Today there are two types of boats.  Boats that are properly maintained and those that are simply not.  When you start to look very few will be maintained. 

I have never used Epifanes poly but all of their other products are excellent so one can assume you are right on.  I am also an Interlux dealer and their Perfection product is very good, but in my opinion it is very thin during application thus requiring many coats.  That’s Ok, but each coat is just another opportunity for more problems to occur.  I will pass your positive experience along to my customers regarding no tipping roll on Epifanes poly.  Ninety percent of my application is by spray gun (another host of self induced problems) but there are times when roll & tip is a better way to go.  The requirement to mask and cover the entire boat at times is the often times the biggest consideration while spraying.  Among the other weather and bug woes is the wind factor while spraying.  Losing $250 a quart paint into the wind is a major consideration and the windier it gets the worse it becomes.  I recently painted a two color waterline stripe on a boat and when I started the wind was dead calm.  One hour latter it was over ten knots and the final coats were all but impossible.  Spraying ultimately provides the best overall finish but once again the slightest flaw in preparation is amplified even to a higher level.

I am very proud of the customers of ours that have painted their own boats.  The difference in before and after is outstanding and at the end of the day if on a DYI application the cost is minimal.  One thing almost all will say is, never apply a lesser final product, as the real time and cost is in the hours and hours of prep.

Congrats on a job well done, the boat looks magnificent and you can say… I did it myself. You know where all the demons are but that simply doesn’t matter.  I looks great!

One last thing regarding the perfect paint job.  I have learned along the way on all types of projects, there is an old saying, never offend the eye of GOD.  There is a bug embedded in the paint job because it was meant to be a bug in the paint job.


Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: Just put a deposit on a 367
« on: July 01, 2021, 10:59:15 AM »
For future reference, there is a search engine known as Tempest Search.  You tell it what you are looking for, give it a zip code and type in a given mile radius and it searches all of the craigslist in that circle.


Chandlery / 365 Ketch listed on Craigslist
« on: June 30, 2021, 08:55:48 AM »
Found this in my travels.  I suspect it is not listed under a broker so not on the major web sites.


A loose footed mainsail attaches to the boom at the gooseneck at the tack point and often with a slide in the boom below the tack point, and again at the clew onto the boom with an outhaul slide.  There is no foot bolt rope that slides into the track along the boom, thus the term "loose foot".  This design allows the "bagging" of the foot when sailing downwind much easier as the position of the outhaul slide is easier to adjust in light air as often you have to "push" the bolt rope. 

The design of Sailrites "stack pack" capitalizes on the loose footed design in order to pass the webbing with snaps under the foot of the sail to contain the Sunbrella sides.  If you do not have a loose footed main this Sailrite design will not work out well at all.

If one does not adjust your mainsail outhaul (upwind/downwind) it will affect the performance of your boat.  Most people will say they do not have the time to get where they would like to get. Better performance equals more time.


Keep in mind, that "stackpac" shown will work only with a loose foot main.  Very few cruising boats have such a thing. 

Under that black paint, that new 2.5hp merc is a Tohatsu. Keep that in mind if you ever need parts.


I have seen a few of those in my days but have never figured out who made those suckers.  The dead give away is the compression turnbuckle in the center.  For what reason Im not sure but they will hold up the moon.


I happen to be a Tohatsu dealer and you are correct that injected 2 strokes do meet the 2006 USA environmental standards, however I do not believe anyone makes a two stroke injected motor below a 50 hp.  You may also be interest in the fact that Tohatsu makes Mercury’s from 20hp down, Evenrude form 30hp down and many of the Hondas.  Tohatsu is the largest manufacture of outboards in the world. 

You wouldn't know it this years as we cannot get our hands on outboards period and Merc and Yamaha dealers cannot as well.  Even parts are drying up as well. 

And now you know....


Years back "stack packs" or whatever the marketing name depending on brand were a hot item.  Today not so much.  I suspect price has a lot to do with it as correctly done they are around $2k.  They are indeed nice as they create a "catcher" for the sail as it is lowered.  You simple drop the main and zip it shut.  You have full battens so the sail will remain relatively neat as it is dropped.  Where we see issues is when someone wants a Dutchman system and the StackPak.  Too much stuff going on and the zip up mechanism becomes an issue. 

You mentioned that you have lazy jacks.  Those provide a similar "catching" system and doesn't detract visually as a StakPak, if it isn't white, typically does not look that good.  There are plenty of positives but I will mention one last negative.  Up north at the end of the season, we take everything off for the winter season.  Removing a StakPak is a two person at best requirement for a 365.  They have full length battens sewn into them and the whole lot (sail and canvas) has to be removed all at once.  They are both heavy and awkward to move and store.

Best of luck...


Two strokes are indeed lighter and as long as you run the correct amount of oil in the fuel they will run pretty much forever.  There is another major positive over a 4 stroke and that is you can lay them down in any orientation without an issue where as a 4 stroke has to be positioned in a very limited manor.  There is only one thing, they were outlawed by our outstanding government in 2006.  This makes the newest 2 stroke outboard you will be able to lay your hands on in this country will be at least 15 years old.  If it has been in salt water for most of that life, it’s going to be on its way out from corrosion. 

If you really want a 2 stroke you have two options. 

1) Buy one from fresh water that has been well cared for.
2) Head to the islands.  They have been outlawed in the USA, UK & Canada but are still for sale brand spanking new in the islands and many other areas of the world.


That metal port was surly added by a prior owner.  As you mentioned the opening ports supplied by Pearson were Beckson.  I hope you can determine who made it but keep in mind in 2008 42% of all marine related businesses went out of business. So… even if you know whose port it is, there is a 42% chance that builder went under in 2008.  Today were are still trying to determine who survived this latest round of disaster but it is becoming clear that many marine suppliers are no longer with us.

Check out New Found Metals ports.  That could be your answer.

Maruska Hull #40

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