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Messages - SV Azimuth

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1
I respectfully disagree -- there are "pass-unders" that snap together under the sail and over the boom, between the sail slides. If you actively use your out-haul, it could make it more complicated, but that is rare for cruising boats indeed.

2
My partner and I purchased Sailrite's kit for making a Sunbrella stackpack/lazy jack system. It's the cheapest price you'll find, their instructions really are good, and it was a fun project to work on together. Happy to provide pics or answer questions if you're interested.
https://www.sailrite.com/Sail-Pack-Stack-Pack-Kit-for-13-Boom

3
We bought a used but nice condition Caribe 9x a couple years ago and love it.

Pros:
- Rigid bottom, planing is a breeze
- Bigger tubes make for a dry and comfortable ride, feels really secure
- Storage locker in the bow is nice
- Second floor keeps everyone's feet dry
- Hypalon material is far superior to PVC

Cons:
- Heavy
- Water sometimes gets trapped between the outer floor and the second floor, I've been working through drain plug options to try and eliminate this

We've paired it with a 15hp 2-stroke Mercury for great results. I'd recommend the combo!

4
Hey Chris,

We experience similar failure of our aged manual Raritan earlier this year. We decided to splurge on a new Raritan Marine Elegance electric toilet and have been very happy with it. Yes there is a pump noise when it flushes but no it's not worse than a guest or visitor trying to figure out the hand pump system at 3am.

I'm happy to answer specific questions as you've got 'em and/or provide some photos of our installation.

Cheers,
Scott

5
Hey Michael,

We have a 365 sloop so results may vary on how it compares to you... that being said we have the mast support beam and don't have the plywood box. It looks similar to your pictures and, if all's the same, you should be able to remove the plywood without compromising the support beam.

Hope that helps,
Scott

6
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Coppercoat
« on: November 17, 2020, 12:11:35 PM »
Though this isn't a P365-specific question, I am curious on y'all's opinions on Coppercoat anti-fouling (www.coppercoatusa.com). We're approaching our bi-annual bottom paint routine and intend to address a few blister areas in the process. Testimonials on Coppercoat seem almost too good to be true (maybe a red flag?) but do have me wondering if the extra effort to strip the hull, knowing we'll be doing it in areas anyways, is worth the extra longevity of the copper/epoxy combo.

Would love to hear of any experience you all have had with the product and whether or not you'd recommend it based on what you know. Thanks!

7
Hah, thanks! I'm really curious how you're using that space Jordan. We found that it was awkward to access and that water from the sink found its way in more often than not... that combined with the non-existent air flow led to a damp and moldy area more often than not.

I haven't finished the new access so no photos yet, but my plan is to build a side-opening door from under the sink. The new sink is only 2" deeper than the old so we retain a good amount of volume in that area.

8
Galley sink upgrade aboard our P365! We pulled out the original sink (I believe it was 14" x 14" x 8") and installed a 40" x 19" x 10" workstation sink. We liveaboard in the San Francisco Bay Area and find that when sailing, most loose items end up in the sink. That still might happen but there's a lot more room for temporary storage while keeping the sink usable. It's stainless and has two-track grooving to allow for a drying rack and cutting board to integrate, among other accessories that we haven't thought about yet. The faucet is also stainless, has the one-level toggle (which I prefer for keeping the ideal temperature while allowing you to turn it on or off), and has a pull-out head.

We needed to cut out the counter into that top-down storage area to the left of the oven, but because the sink is only two inches deeper than the original, we retain a lot of the bottom volume through a side-opening area now under the sink.

We installed a Blue Seas ACR in the lazarette to replace the interior battery switch and will be moving that AC outlet so we can finish the tile.

I will say, the galley feels larger, more functional, and more modern now  ;D

9
Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: 365 Ketch - Hull 141
« on: August 25, 2020, 12:27:24 PM »
You'd need a symmetrical spinnaker setup first -- deploy a stern anchor upwind, tie the two spinnaker clews together and tie a recovery line to one side. Hoist the spinnaker to the headstay and have someone sit on the lines connecting the clews. The sail will fill and take them with it, strong suggestion to avoid the forestay and anything in the way as you get lifted up! The spinnaker rider can pull the clews together to lower themselves and you can use the recovery line if the sail tries to escape. It's a lot of fun but definitely can be precarious if you're not paying attention.

10
You could rig up an asymm with a similar pole situation and it would help to have the pole extension for deeper reaches.

11
I realize it's been 7+ years since this post but I've appreciated the discussion. We have the "banding" or extruded areas on both topdecks and below (#297) and I've wondered if it had a specific purpose and if so, what it was. Interesting to know it's included on some 365/7s but not on others.

Cheers

12
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Daydreaming about a Saildrive
« on: July 15, 2020, 02:20:17 PM »
I know this is simultaneously impractical, expensive, and really just a daydream/thought experiment... but how realistic would it be to rebuild the engine mounts, flip the engine around, cut a hole, and add a saildrive to the 365? The prop location would remain about the same and we'd get to remove the v-drive and eliminate the nuance of having so much shaft exposed. Bonus if you installed a new-fangled rotating saildrive for extra marina maneuverability! It's fun to think about at least :D

13
Glad you got it up and working! We recently installed an electric toilet (Raritan Marine Elegance) in our head and I was surprised at how thick that riser in the head was built up. I ended up installing another layer on the top to cover up the holes cut for the old toilet but took a photo of the layers of the riser under the toilet. Guess I'll never worry about breaking through while using it in heavy seas  ;D

14
Welcome to the group! We have a '79 sloop (#297) in Alameda, CA great boat! Enjoy yours and the helpful knowledge in this forum. ~~/)~~

15
Thank you S/V Amity for that thorough write up and to P69 for those detailed photos and description. Both help immensely!

I will take what I can get as far as ideas and expertise, and it's especially great that we're talking about the same boat. I plan to check the tabbing where accessible and the mast tension rod as soon as I'm able, and to run your string and door gap method next time we're under way.

Does anyone know if:
1. The P365 has a tendency for delamination in the deck? Could the wood core and fiberglass top and bottom layers be rubbing within the deck itself? Is this even possible?

2. There is a gap between the deck and the headliner that would/could cause rubbing while each flex from movement, stress, or temperature?


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