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I had the same experience  with that SOB David Layman (not to be confused with SAOD.) about five years ago. I'm sure I posted my experience here a number of years ago, so I'll let those interested review my postings.

Suffice it to say it took four months and over two grand to get the unit back.

Now to the present. I've always hated that piece of crap. I'm Convinced who ever designed the Paragon had to have been an arthropod. When I'm at the helm and need to shift into reverse, my left hand holds the wheel, my right hand controls the throttle, and my left leg tries to hold the shift lever in reverse. As to neutral, I've had the boat for almost twenty years and I still don't really know where that is.

Two weeks ago I was out for the first time this season with my new set of North Sail sails. (150 genny on furler, Full batten main and mizzen. Both free footed.)
I purchased them from Dale Tanske in Buffalo.  Hats off to you Dale I am thrilled.

As is my usual procedure at the end of the day I nosed the boat into the wind and put her on autopilot to bring down the sails. When done I turned off the autopilot and throttled up.
Then all hell broke loose I heard a loud bang I thought I'd hit something and was not able to move the boat forward or reverse. The engine was fine but that was it, Other than the wind she was dead in the water.

Sea Tow was called, ( the only bargain in boating!) towed us to my winter yard and had her hauled and is on the hard.

Turns out the the damper plate and spline gears on the tranny bought the farm.
F......k the (excuse the expletive) SAOD. I've ordered a Velvet Drive which is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I hope to have it installed by the end of the week. I will keep you all posted.

As the saying goes, B-O-A-T  Bring out another thousand!

Henri
         

It has been a very long time since I sent a question or responded to a posting. I believe there was a movie years ago that had the line.......I'M BACK!!!!!!!!!!
Any way to your question. You should absolutely check pricing from other sources.
Case in point. Years ago ( More than 15) I needed to replace the raw water pump on my westerbeke. Hanson Marine quoted me either $300 or $600. They asked if I wanted it with or with out the pressed on pulley. That  was $100 extra as I remember.

A member of this wonderful site said " It is a Perkins  107". I had no idea what that meant!!!

Well I learned. I contacted a Perkins dealer servicing the farming Industry in upstate New York. The counter guy was beyond helpful. He said I could have it with or without the pulley.  With was $5.00 less with pulley without it was $110.00. Guess which one I ordered.
There was a difference however the Westerbeke was red, the Perkins was black.
By the way, it's still black.

Good luck

Henri

Ray,
I may have to replace/rebuild my injector fuel pump.
Let mw know what you are asking.
e-mail hendrik@snet.net.

Look forward to hearing from you

Henri

Oops................

Make that a female fitting on the hose! the male is on the tank.

Jim & Carl:
I like your idea about the dip stick. I've seen several slightly different approaches but yours is the simplest. I may be able to squeeze it in before launching.

As previously posted, removing oil from the dip stick tube limits you from getting the bulk of it out of the oil pan since that is the high side.

I don't know if the hose is high temp since it came with the kit. I would think it is. It came with a factory installed fitting with the male end a 3/8 flare fitting. In my book nothing is better than a flare connection. My prejudice may be due to my early HVAC days.
Oil pressure should not be a problem. The oil pan as best I know has no pressure in it. It's just a reservoir for the oil. The pressure is on the down stream side of the engine's oil pump.

I agree a small manual pump is the better choice, but I got the kit at a really good price. And besides, as the adv says, pressing the button on the top of the pump,  hearing the wherrrr, and seeing the oil running into the gallon milk jug....... "PRICELESS!"


Henri

Randy:
I used a Qwik-Drain Oil Removal System kit model 112. It consists of a 12volt pump with hoses and fittings.
I pretty sure they are no longer in business. But, the info I have from the box is:

Distributor Imtra Marine Products New Bedford Mass. 508-995-7000
Manufacturer Quad Mfg Inc Coeur d'Alene ID 208-765-6416

Your other option might be to attach the installed hose to a manual pump. There are a bunch of them available.

good luck.

Hi guys:

I just replaced my original motor mounts, and by dumb luck found I could remove the section under the sink very easily. That would have made my original effort to install a permanent oil pump out system a lot easier. What I did then was:
1. remove the transmission
2. loosen the motor mount screws
3. raise the engine with a bottle jack
4. curse, curse some more, but finally get the oil plug out and replaced with a elbow fitting with a flare end attached to the drain    hose.
The rest of the install was quite easy. It was all worth it!!!!!
Had I known about the woodwork I would not have needed to remove the transmission. The drain plug is right there in plain sight. I suspect its easier to get a wrench around a nut you can see as opposed to feeling your way while in a position nature never intended for humans.

Before I replaced the mounts, I cut my fuel tank into three pieces to get it thru the port locker. I decided to have a local shop make two replacement tanks. They are being fabricated as I write. If you are interested in that project I'll put that in under another topic.

Whatever it takes it was worth the effort!!!!!!!!!!!

Henri 

Billy,
I believe I have a CU100. I don;t think it can be converted to a water cooling system easily, economically if at all. If the CU 200 is both air and water cooled, the plenum may be an option.

I plan to be at the boat tomorrow and will take some photos and give you the details on how I constructed the plenum.

Regards,

Henri

When I purchased Windrider the seller agreed to replace the defective water cooled refrigeration unit as part of the purchase agreement.
At the time I did not give much thought to what he would have installed. ( I'd never had refrigeration in a boat before.) As it turned out he replaced it with an air cooled Alder Barbour system and mounted in the port locker. The installer, I suspect being aware of the high temperature in the locker tapped into the vinyl ventilator hose that is attached to the cowl vent on the transom. He then secured the open end with cable ties in the general area of the condenser. So much for pride in workmanship!
As a young buck I spent a number of years working in the HVAC field. I'm glad I did, I learned a lot. Amung which was that I did not want to spend the rest of my life lugging tools, gauges, rolls of copper tubing and dragging around drums of F12 and F22.  (Some of you may remember those.)
After a time, I could not stand it any more and I decided to fix it. Converting to a water cooled system was cost prohibative. Instead I fabricated a plenum around the condensor and connect it directly to the ventilator hose. Not only did it look much better, but improved the system dramatically.
If, (As I've said before) I could figure out how to attach photos to this magnificent site, I'd  share them, but my computer skills are a rung below neanderthal.

Anyway, I thought you might find this twist interesting.


Regards,

Henri

I like Garner opted for a below deck unit. A Raymarine ST5000 Plus.
The Raymarine tech told me I needed the ST6000 which was about 1000 more. (I wonder if that's how they came up with their part numbers.) Well for the last six or so years the unit has more than met my needs.
Only once was I in a situation where it was overpowered. 
In dealings with Raymarine I have found them to be extremely conservative.

Henri

I've never had a problem shifting in either direction engine running or not.
Perhaps a bit more detail will make it possible to help you. What do you mean by not shifting forward?  The shift lever (If you have a Edson pedistal ) is either up or down. Down for reverse and up to forward. In forward you feel a click locking it in.  Reverse does not lock you hold it down for however long you need to go that way.
It might be a good idea to take off the cover plate on the transmission and see if infact the gears don't move. DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!!!!! You'll have #30 oil all over the place.


Good luck 

Henri

Dale:
Yesterday I followed with interest the posting on sails.  Even though I have other priorities, (Read that as solutions vs money to pay for them) before tackling their replacement.
What struck me was the depth of of knowledge this site holds. I had planned to say that yesterday, but a phone call got in the way and then something called memory interjected as well!
So, you beat me to it my friend.  Reflecting back on the enormous benefits I've gotten over the years, I cannot begin to calculate the value I've received from this braintrust.
Thanks to all of you!!!!!

Henri

Billy,

Based on my experience (over 10 years ago) The Poly Glow did not last more than two years. At that time they had a cleaner that was in the same type of platic bottle the Poly Glow came in. It was a very strong cleaner, but even with that not all of it came off. When I reapplied the Poly Glow the finish ended up with a shiney but flaky like finish. It  wore off at the places where I hung my bumpers after one season.
I think Practical Sailor did some tests on it and found the shine to be very good. I dont know if they did any aging tests.

Hope this helps.

Henri

One added suggestion before you plunk down your money at West Marine. I have always found them to be significantly more expensive than other sources. Check with Defender Industries out of Connecticut. If they stock it and have it in their catalog you can bring it in to West and they will match the price. If you have time go to the web and see what's available.

A famous Senator from Illinois Everett Dirkson once said," A million here, a million there, after a while you're talking serious money".

Good luck.

Henri

Shacklepin:

It looks more and more like I will have to replace my tank.
Your solution interests me as a possible option.
First did you take any photos of the project? That would be a big help in getting my arms around it.
Second how did you go about getting the two plastic tanks? Were they off the shelf, custom made and where did you get them?
This will be a major project for me and I want to get as much insight as possible before I squeeze my body into the pit!
One more thing, how did you go about  locating the leak?

Thanks,

Henri