- Welcome to Pearson 365 and 367.
Recent posts
#1
Chandlery / Need to sell my project Pearso...
Last post by Sailing367 - April 22, 2025, 09:40:59 AMI need to sell my mid-refit Pearson 367. Ad can be seen here: https://www.sailboatlistings.com/cgi-bin/view.cgi?sailboat=103958
Any reasonable offer accepted.
Let me know if you are interested!
Any reasonable offer accepted.
Let me know if you are interested!
#2
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Hood Stoway In-Mast Furler...
Last post by S/V Deo Volente - April 12, 2025, 09:10:02 AMI still have the Stearns Dynafurl from 1980. I purchased new bearings from Rig-rite for some outrageous sum and copied the numbers. Years later I replaced them with bearings ordered from a local outlet for a much lower reasonable sum. I also made sure to pack them in a lot of grease and then siliconed the threads on the end caps. Eighteen years later they spin like new.
#3
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Hood Stoway In-Mast Furler: Up...
Last post by P69 - April 02, 2025, 02:42:58 PMA few years ago, I bought a replacement top bearing assembly for my Hood Stoway main furler from Eric Pearson and last week. Before installing it, I documented the part numbers and did some searching on the web for possible sources in case I needed another one in the future. I think I paid around $250 or $300 for the upper bearing parts from Eric. Unfortunately, died a while back, so it might be difficult to obtain replacement parts. Indalo Rigging apparently bought the inventory from Eric's estate (indalorigging.com/hood-furling-systems). I had a hunch that the bearing was nothing specific to the Stoway system and likely a common bearing. The bearings appear to be common bearings "self-aligning thrust bearings with a model number of 53203.
The top bearing assembly I purchased from Eric included the four parts of the thrust bearing, a washer, a nyloc nut, and a plastic shoulder washer made of black hard plastic (nylon, delrin?). I was not sure where the shoulder washer needed to be placed, so I put it at the bottom of the stack, with the smaller ID pointing down into the hole in the mast head. This formed a cork to keep the grease contained.
Although I took pictures, I did not measure the dimensions of the shoulder washer before installing, but here is the info that I can recall.
The plastic shoulder washer has these approximate dimensions (see attached diagram).
Heights A and B are equal and about 3/16"
Diameter of C (largest OD) is the same as the ID of the bottom-most part of the bearing assembly (~1.25"). This plastic bearing sits in the ID of the bottom part of the bearing.
Diameter D is about the same as the hole in the mast head through which the furler rod passes. This is about 3/4"
ID is about 7/16", which allows the furler rod to pass through. The furler rod (the part at the top that has a threaded end that goes through the top bearing), has an OD of 7/16" and has a fine thread.
I found a link on amazon and one at bearingshop.org that appear to be exactly what I have (except for the nylock nut, flat washer, and plastic shoulder washer).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MFXYVI...v_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.bearingshop.org/53203-ns...ings-bore.html
These appear to be the same bearing that I installed as the new replacement and if y'all need one, you might want to give these a try instead of paying nearly 10x for what appears to be the same thing.
The top bearing assembly I purchased from Eric included the four parts of the thrust bearing, a washer, a nyloc nut, and a plastic shoulder washer made of black hard plastic (nylon, delrin?). I was not sure where the shoulder washer needed to be placed, so I put it at the bottom of the stack, with the smaller ID pointing down into the hole in the mast head. This formed a cork to keep the grease contained.
Although I took pictures, I did not measure the dimensions of the shoulder washer before installing, but here is the info that I can recall.
The plastic shoulder washer has these approximate dimensions (see attached diagram).
Heights A and B are equal and about 3/16"
Diameter of C (largest OD) is the same as the ID of the bottom-most part of the bearing assembly (~1.25"). This plastic bearing sits in the ID of the bottom part of the bearing.
Diameter D is about the same as the hole in the mast head through which the furler rod passes. This is about 3/4"
ID is about 7/16", which allows the furler rod to pass through. The furler rod (the part at the top that has a threaded end that goes through the top bearing), has an OD of 7/16" and has a fine thread.
I found a link on amazon and one at bearingshop.org that appear to be exactly what I have (except for the nylock nut, flat washer, and plastic shoulder washer).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MFXYVI...v_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.bearingshop.org/53203-ns...ings-bore.html
These appear to be the same bearing that I installed as the new replacement and if y'all need one, you might want to give these a try instead of paying nearly 10x for what appears to be the same thing.
#4
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Hard Dodger
Last post by P69 - April 02, 2025, 12:48:54 AMWayne,
I didn't keep detailed records, but going back through receipts and memory, it probably cost between $2500 and $3000. Likely closer to or above $3000 when one factors in misc supplies and electrical/lighting. I installed lights in the dodger's overhead also.
Unfortunately, I don't have any drawings. Even if I made drawings after wood mock up was finalized, those drawings would be invalid because I made further modifications after the fiberglass was laid up, but before fairing it out. The fore/aft corners were too sharp, so I cut them to make a more rounded corner.
Rough breakdown of major components:
I didn't keep detailed records, but going back through receipts and memory, it probably cost between $2500 and $3000. Likely closer to or above $3000 when one factors in misc supplies and electrical/lighting. I installed lights in the dodger's overhead also.
Unfortunately, I don't have any drawings. Even if I made drawings after wood mock up was finalized, those drawings would be invalid because I made further modifications after the fiberglass was laid up, but before fairing it out. The fore/aft corners were too sharp, so I cut them to make a more rounded corner.
Rough breakdown of major components:
- 1708: Around 30 yards (50" wide rolls) (~ $9/yard @ USComposites (shipping rolled into that $9 price)
- Airex: 3 sheets (@ $200/sheet)
- Epoxy: 6 or 8 gallons (RakaEpoxy)
- Acrylic Windows (precut, delivered): $400
- Dome: $120
- VHB tape for windows: ?
- Dow 795: 3 rolls?
- Paint: 1/2 gallon primer, 1 gallon top coat (one part polyurethane
- Misc 2x4 and thin plywood
#5
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Re: Hard Dodger
Last post by SVJourney - April 01, 2025, 01:19:41 PMNice work! And good post. It is great that others can see what can be done and a detailed way to do it here. The link pictures give a good idea of job progression.
Do you have a guesstimate of material costs?
Did you happen to make paper patterns or dimension drawings after you finalized your wood mold?
Cheers,
Wayne
Do you have a guesstimate of material costs?
Did you happen to make paper patterns or dimension drawings after you finalized your wood mold?
Cheers,
Wayne
#6
Pearson General Non-Mechanical System Maintenance and Repair / Hard Dodger
Last post by P69 - March 21, 2025, 10:36:10 PMI made my hard dodger out of 1" Airex and 2 layers of 1708 exterior and interior with epoxy resin. Painted with 1 part polyurethane.
Dodger is positioned on coach roof around a flange that is glassed to the coach roof. This flange keeps the dodger from moving around and six bolts secure it to the flange (3 on each side). I didn't glass dodger to coachroof because I want it removable and didn't want it to tear the coach roof apart if a wave carried the dodger away.
Acrylic windows are stuck to the outside surface with 3M VHB tape and Dow 791 sealant to cover up the crude edge of the VHB and cover the edges of the acrylic panels to prevent sunlight from penetrating the edge. The forward-facing window is hinged with an acrylic hinge. Dome is clear acrylic fastened with Dow 791 only and it's positioned directly above the companionway steps so I can stand on the 2nd step and see through the dome.
Traveler is on its own stainless steel structure that is independent of the dodger and through bolted to reinforced sections of the cockpit coaming and coach roof. Tubes are made of 1.25" schedule 40 pipe, 316 SS. One design criterion is that I need to be able to trim the main if the dodger were not in place. I also did not want the loads from the main sheet tear the dodger away.
Perimeter of dodger roof has a dam to capture rain water, which drains through threaded holes at the forward corners. When needed, I screw threaded hose barbs into those holes and connect to drain hoses --> buckets.
I used 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to get the basic design structure, then added 1/8" plywood to finalize the design. Once satisfied, I screwed the Airex to the wood mold and tacked the corners and joints with fiberglass. Removed the screws and applied the 2 layers of 1708 to the exterior. Flipped it over, removed the wood, then routed out passageway for wires. Following that, I added the 2 layers to the inside. After several days of fairing inside and out, I added light fixtures (then removed). Final step was to apply paint and reinstall fixtures.
Aires was very bendy and difficult to shape with sand paper. Divinycell might have been a better choice. I tried using 1700 (no mat, but that was a nightmare to work with because it fell apart during dry fit and wet-out. I went back to 1708, which I think took more resin. Overall the dodger doesn't flex, I can stand on it, but takes two people to move it because of it's size. It's slightly heavier than I can lift, but I never weighed it.
The most time-consuming process was the design; it took months of sketches (paper and on computer) and modeling on board with sticks. I wanted to make sure it didn't look like crap and tried to ensure that it blended in with the boat. Slopes forward and that sight line intersects the bow. The height above the cockpit sole is such that I can stand and see over the top. Previous cloth dodger was higher and I hated looking through dirty windows.
I added the PDF diagrams of the windows.
More pictures: https://bodylens.com/sailboat/index.php?album=Hard-Dodger
Dodger is positioned on coach roof around a flange that is glassed to the coach roof. This flange keeps the dodger from moving around and six bolts secure it to the flange (3 on each side). I didn't glass dodger to coachroof because I want it removable and didn't want it to tear the coach roof apart if a wave carried the dodger away.
Acrylic windows are stuck to the outside surface with 3M VHB tape and Dow 791 sealant to cover up the crude edge of the VHB and cover the edges of the acrylic panels to prevent sunlight from penetrating the edge. The forward-facing window is hinged with an acrylic hinge. Dome is clear acrylic fastened with Dow 791 only and it's positioned directly above the companionway steps so I can stand on the 2nd step and see through the dome.
Traveler is on its own stainless steel structure that is independent of the dodger and through bolted to reinforced sections of the cockpit coaming and coach roof. Tubes are made of 1.25" schedule 40 pipe, 316 SS. One design criterion is that I need to be able to trim the main if the dodger were not in place. I also did not want the loads from the main sheet tear the dodger away.
Perimeter of dodger roof has a dam to capture rain water, which drains through threaded holes at the forward corners. When needed, I screw threaded hose barbs into those holes and connect to drain hoses --> buckets.
I used 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to get the basic design structure, then added 1/8" plywood to finalize the design. Once satisfied, I screwed the Airex to the wood mold and tacked the corners and joints with fiberglass. Removed the screws and applied the 2 layers of 1708 to the exterior. Flipped it over, removed the wood, then routed out passageway for wires. Following that, I added the 2 layers to the inside. After several days of fairing inside and out, I added light fixtures (then removed). Final step was to apply paint and reinstall fixtures.
Aires was very bendy and difficult to shape with sand paper. Divinycell might have been a better choice. I tried using 1700 (no mat, but that was a nightmare to work with because it fell apart during dry fit and wet-out. I went back to 1708, which I think took more resin. Overall the dodger doesn't flex, I can stand on it, but takes two people to move it because of it's size. It's slightly heavier than I can lift, but I never weighed it.
The most time-consuming process was the design; it took months of sketches (paper and on computer) and modeling on board with sticks. I wanted to make sure it didn't look like crap and tried to ensure that it blended in with the boat. Slopes forward and that sight line intersects the bow. The height above the cockpit sole is such that I can stand and see over the top. Previous cloth dodger was higher and I hated looking through dirty windows.
I added the PDF diagrams of the windows.
More pictures: https://bodylens.com/sailboat/index.php?album=Hard-Dodger
#7
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Looking for feedback on (c...
Last post by P69 - March 06, 2025, 12:14:17 PMTodd,
The engine is 400 to 500 lbs and sitting on a forward slope. As soon as you take some weight off the engine, gravity will will slide forward; therefore, you'll need some way to control that forward motion. Your angled chain/lever design might work for that, but test out with some line to see if you can get the angles you need without the companionway threshold interfering. You then have to lift it a few inches up onto the cabin sole and forward about 24". Once out on the cabin sole, you just hoist it straight up. The U bracket is only needed to pull it out of the cave and put it back in; it's not used for lifting it out of the boat.
Once the underside of the engine is high enough to clear the companionway theshold, you need to move it aft so the forward side clears the companionway opening in the coach roof and slide out out into the cockpit.
Your plan will likely work to remove the engine, but, depending your motor mounts, will be difficult to reinstall because you might need more precision when sliding it aft and lowering it onto the mounts. That is where the U bracket is very helpful.
Here are links to what I did
Removal
Removing the engine before I knew what I was doing. Almost broke fingers when the engine slid foward once I took weight off. I added blocks/tackle on both sides to control the fwd motion, but those were inadequate; however, I managed to get it out.
https://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=9
Reinstall
Reinstalled using the U-shaped bracket. First you lower it down onto the sole, then use the U-shaped bracket to move it aft into the engine cave.
https://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=7
The engine is 400 to 500 lbs and sitting on a forward slope. As soon as you take some weight off the engine, gravity will will slide forward; therefore, you'll need some way to control that forward motion. Your angled chain/lever design might work for that, but test out with some line to see if you can get the angles you need without the companionway threshold interfering. You then have to lift it a few inches up onto the cabin sole and forward about 24". Once out on the cabin sole, you just hoist it straight up. The U bracket is only needed to pull it out of the cave and put it back in; it's not used for lifting it out of the boat.
Once the underside of the engine is high enough to clear the companionway theshold, you need to move it aft so the forward side clears the companionway opening in the coach roof and slide out out into the cockpit.
Your plan will likely work to remove the engine, but, depending your motor mounts, will be difficult to reinstall because you might need more precision when sliding it aft and lowering it onto the mounts. That is where the U bracket is very helpful.
Here are links to what I did
Removal
Removing the engine before I knew what I was doing. Almost broke fingers when the engine slid foward once I took weight off. I added blocks/tackle on both sides to control the fwd motion, but those were inadequate; however, I managed to get it out.
https://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=9
Reinstall
Reinstalled using the U-shaped bracket. First you lower it down onto the sole, then use the U-shaped bracket to move it aft into the engine cave.
https://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=7
#8
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Looking for feedback on (crazy...
Last post by trooper26 - March 04, 2025, 10:24:59 AMNew 365 owner, so I apologize if this idea is asinine. Thinking ahead to the '25/'26 winter, I am trying to think of ways to get the engine out without fabricating that cool u-shaped bracket I have seen others do. Here it goes:
With an engine hoist attached near the end of the boom and the chain dangling forward of the engine, use a long 2x4/pipe as a lever with the fulcrum being the point of contact with the hoist chain and the long portion going forward in the cabin. It seems that I could get huge mechanical advantage and simply repeatedly lift the engine a bit, scoot it forward a couple inches, set down, slide connection between engine and lever, repeat.
Thanks in advance.
Todd
S/V Cetus
365 #22
With an engine hoist attached near the end of the boom and the chain dangling forward of the engine, use a long 2x4/pipe as a lever with the fulcrum being the point of contact with the hoist chain and the long portion going forward in the cabin. It seems that I could get huge mechanical advantage and simply repeatedly lift the engine a bit, scoot it forward a couple inches, set down, slide connection between engine and lever, repeat.
Thanks in advance.
Todd
S/V Cetus
365 #22
#9
Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: Welcome to the Pearson 365...
Last post by trooper26 - March 04, 2025, 08:10:32 AMGreetings everyone. I have been the recipient (and once or twice provider) of priceless knowledge on mirafiori.com while working on my father's '81 Fiat Turbo Spider--looking at this site I am anticipating the same kind of helpful jovial experience.
S/V Cetus (#22) is a 365 that just joined the family and seems to be in great shape. My father and I are hoping to get quite a bit of use out of Cetus this summer in SF bay, with a haul-out next winter to do usual bottom preventive maintenance, pull/rebuild engine, replace fuel tank, possibly re-step main and re-rig (I would really like to go synthetic or swageless to make it as DIY-reparable as possible).
I have read a fair amount of posts already and appreciate the help.
Todd
S/V Cetus
#22
S/V Cetus (#22) is a 365 that just joined the family and seems to be in great shape. My father and I are hoping to get quite a bit of use out of Cetus this summer in SF bay, with a haul-out next winter to do usual bottom preventive maintenance, pull/rebuild engine, replace fuel tank, possibly re-step main and re-rig (I would really like to go synthetic or swageless to make it as DIY-reparable as possible).
I have read a fair amount of posts already and appreciate the help.
Todd
S/V Cetus
#22
#10
Pearson 365/367 Yacht Club / Re: So what is everyone's curr...
Last post by SVJourney - January 24, 2025, 12:26:37 PMNice! Should be a great setup once you have it all installed.
We did 4 years of offshore cruising and always thought that 400 watts would have been enough for our needs. We made do with 200W and a Honda genset.
We did 4 years of offshore cruising and always thought that 400 watts would have been enough for our needs. We made do with 200W and a Honda genset.