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#1
Thank you so much
#2
Many people have gone to type 1 linear drives from Raymarine.  The only Hyd drive I know of was from PeteW.  He has a detailed post with pictures here: 
https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1366.msg7425#msg7425
#3
I want to upgrade my auto pilot from a ev100 wheel pilot to a below deck linear (hydrolic) drive.  anyone out there who has a below deck set up I would love to see pictures of the install and any advice.  I want to use raymarine as my control head and sensor will work with the type 1 or 2 linear drives.   Also where did you get the tiller are that bolts on the quardrant?     thank you in advance.   
#4
Chandlery / Harken Traveler Risers - $425
Last post by P69 - May 02, 2025, 10:32:34 PM
Harken Traveler Risers (1 Pair)
Likely Harken Part Number: 1849
https://www.harken.com/en/shop/27-mm-midrange/cb-track-riser-set/?srsltid=AfmBOopm2nmHNnwbZhKj7nCoCtktqC9uohW8pJxKnUB3XDT-sJXBLuO2

Came off my 1982 Pearson 367, age unknown, but it was an after-market installation by some previous owner.
I removed it when I moved the traveler to a different location off the coach roof.

More pictures:
https://bodylens.com/ForSale/index.php?album=Harken-Traveler-Risers

Price: $425
Location: Foley, Alabama
Pickup or buyer pays shipping
#5
Chandlery / Harken Mk 1, Unit2, $1200
Last post by P69 - May 02, 2025, 10:16:23 PM
Harken Mk 1, Unit2
Series/Date stamp: 2-491
Mfg date: April of 1991
Price: 1200 for entire set
Buyer pays shipping
Location: Foley, Alabama

Removed from a 1982 Pearson 367 during complete refit
When I removed the furler, it worked very well, but I did not want to keep it because I replaced almost everything on the boat and didn't want old left-over hardware.

Link to more pictures:
https://bodylens.com/ForSale/index.php?album=Harken-MKI-Roller-Furler

Videos showing swivels work:
https://youtube.com/shorts/O8W4lDwZCPg
https://youtube.com/shorts/yf7t3xqF98Q

INCLUDED:
Manual (1)
Foils: Middle, 7' (4)
Foils: Bottom, 9' 4 1/2" (1)
Foils: Upper, 4' 7" (1)
Torque Tube (1)
Drum Assembly (1)
Halyard Swivel (1)
Locking Collar (1)
Feeder (1)
Foil Screws (24)
Foil Connecor Wedges (4)
Locking Split Cylinder (1)
Regular Foil Connecotrs (5)
Bottom Foil Connector (1)

MISSING:
Foil Connector Wedge (1)
Prefeeder (1)
Headstay terminal (1)
Torque Tube Screws (several)
Spare ScrewsTop Foil Trim Cap (1)
Screws that hold the Drum Assembly together (several)
Furler line and hardware to lead aft to cockpit


MINOR DAMAGE:
Pitting on lower flange of drum (about 1/2" diameter area)
Crushed foil groove at top end of upper foil (small damage)
#6
Chandlery / Need to sell my project Pearso...
Last post by Sailing367 - April 22, 2025, 09:40:59 AM
I need to sell my mid-refit Pearson 367. Ad can be seen here: https://www.sailboatlistings.com/cgi-bin/view.cgi?sailboat=103958

Any reasonable offer accepted.

Let me know if you are interested!
#7
I still have the Stearns Dynafurl from 1980. I purchased new bearings from Rig-rite for some outrageous sum and copied the numbers. Years later I replaced them with bearings ordered from a local outlet for a much lower reasonable sum. I also made sure to pack them in a lot of grease and then siliconed the threads on the end caps. Eighteen years later they spin like new.
#8
A few years ago, I bought a replacement top bearing assembly for my Hood Stoway main furler from Eric Pearson and last week. Before installing it, I documented the part numbers and did some searching on the web for possible sources in case I needed another one in the future.  I think I paid around $250 or $300 for the upper bearing parts from Eric.  Unfortunately, died a while back, so it might be difficult to obtain replacement parts. Indalo Rigging apparently bought the inventory from Eric's estate (indalorigging.com/hood-furling-systems). I had a hunch that the bearing was nothing specific to the Stoway system and likely a common bearing. The bearings appear to be common bearings "self-aligning thrust bearings with a model number of 53203.

The top bearing assembly I purchased from Eric included the four parts of the thrust bearing, a washer, a nyloc nut, and a plastic shoulder washer made of black hard plastic (nylon, delrin?). I was not sure where the shoulder washer needed to be placed, so I put it at the bottom of the stack, with the smaller ID pointing down into the hole in the mast head. This formed a cork to keep the grease contained.

Although I took pictures, I did not measure the dimensions of the shoulder washer before installing, but here is the info that I can recall.

The plastic shoulder washer has these approximate dimensions (see attached diagram).

Heights A and B are equal and about 3/16"

Diameter of C (largest OD) is the same as the ID of the bottom-most part of the bearing assembly (~1.25"). This plastic bearing sits in the ID of the bottom part of the bearing.

Diameter D is about the same as the hole in the mast head through which the furler rod passes. This is about 3/4"

ID is about 7/16", which allows the furler rod to pass through. The furler rod (the part at the top that has a threaded end that goes through the top bearing), has an OD of 7/16" and has a fine thread.


I found a link on amazon and one at bearingshop.org that appear to be exactly what I have (except for the nylock nut, flat washer, and plastic shoulder washer).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MFXYVI...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.bearingshop.org/53203-ns...ings-bore.html

These appear to be the same bearing that I installed as the new replacement and if y'all need one, you might want to give these a try instead of paying nearly 10x for what appears to be the same thing.
#9
Wayne,
I didn't keep detailed records, but going back through receipts and memory, it probably cost between $2500 and $3000. Likely closer to or above $3000 when one factors in misc supplies and electrical/lighting. I installed lights in the dodger's overhead also.

Unfortunately, I don't have any drawings.  Even if I made drawings after wood mock up was finalized, those drawings would be invalid because I made further modifications after the fiberglass was laid up, but before fairing it out.  The fore/aft corners were too sharp, so I cut them to make a more rounded corner.


Rough breakdown of major components:
  • 1708: Around 30 yards (50" wide rolls) (~ $9/yard @ USComposites (shipping rolled into that $9 price)
  • Airex: 3 sheets (@ $200/sheet)
  • Epoxy: 6 or 8 gallons (RakaEpoxy)
  • Acrylic Windows (precut, delivered): $400
  • Dome: $120
  • VHB tape for windows: ?
  • Dow 795: 3 rolls?
  • Paint: 1/2 gallon primer, 1 gallon top coat (one part polyurethane
  • Misc 2x4 and thin plywood
#10
Nice work!  And good post.  It is great that others can see what can be done and a detailed way to do it here. The link pictures give a good idea of job progression.
Do you have a guesstimate of material costs?
Did you happen to make paper patterns or dimension drawings after you finalized your wood mold?
Cheers,
Wayne