Deck-to-hull finish & bump rail

[stephandjaysail365]

Hi,

I saw this discussion already but given its age and a slightly different question, am posting a new thread.

1. Finishing the edge:

We decided to remove our teak rail given its poor condition and the cost of fixing it.

We don't think we need to glass the deck-to-hull joint because it seems strong enough but we do want to make the edge look finished. I see a lot of threads about glassing the edge (including the prior discussion). However, an expert in the marina is recommending we just epoxy and fair it - no need to glass.

Has anyone done just the epoxy/fairing finish, rather than glassing the edge? Curious if it worked well or any concerns?

2. bump rail?
Additionally, the teak rail served as a bump rail. Do we need one? Any recommendations about bump rail replacements?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

[P69]

The hull/deck joint is held together with the genoa track bolts, #14 flat head sheet metal screws, and some kind of caulking that is very likely no longer flexible.  I removed the teak, all fasteners, then fiber glassed the inside (epoxy resin) and outside (polyester resin).  I had numerous untraceable leaks and that was the only way I knew how to stop the leaks.  I also put all the mooring cleats on the toe rail and eliminated chafe associated with chocks.

Interior is 3 or 4 layers of 1708 with epoxy resin. On the exterior, I sanded the sheer stripe off the first 4" down and sanded the  gelcoat off the deck-side the first 4" down so the bond is with fiberglass, not gelcoat.  Laid in about 3 layers of mat with polyester resin. Once cured, I through bolted with 5/16" flathead machine screws, then glassed over the top of them with 3 layers of CSM using vinyl ester resin.  Bolts are set in Sika 291 to seal them. Two or 3 more layers of mat over the bolts to finish.  I used polyester outside because I gel coated the toe rail/deck and gelcoat doesn't work stick to /cure with epoxy.  Now, the hull/deck joint does not leak and is strong.


Regarding the bump rail.  I needed it, you might not.  I installed a rub rail from Duramax.  Duramax 100 series Tapered D-shape/Key bore, DB-50

https://www.duramaxmarine.com/pdf/DockBumperPG-100.pdf

It's held to the hull with 1/4" through bolts about every 12" with butyl tape as a sealant. I designed the bolting pattern so I could get to them in the future without removing cabinets.  Thirty foot piece on each side, starting about 2' forward of the transom and ending about 3' from the bow. I used black because I wanted continuous pieces and black is the only color with continuous (up to 60' long). I got a 60' piece and cut it in two.

[stephandjaysail365]

Thank you, P69, for sharing. That's a big job but looks like it's worth it for no more leaks.