Topics

It's been a long time since I've posted, I am letting the forum know that I'm selling my 1978 Pearson 365 (hull#193). I have it listed on Craigslist in Tampa Bay area, Fl.
Sta-sea-dawn is good condition....I put it up for 29,900...I think that is fair because it does not have a bimini and dodger.
I have developed health problems that stops me for hoisting the sails.......Billy

Hey everybody......I find myself in the same position...selling my 1978 ketch and moving to a trawler.
I did not know that Pearson made trawlers.  I was searching the web and so them.  I am thinking of 37 to 42 feet.

First....Any idea of a fare price for my catch?

Does anyone have an opinion about Pearson yacht's comparison of durability and quality of the period to  other companies?

Does anyone have a suggestion for a good quality of trawler I should look at?

My Westerbeke 4-108 40 hp diesel has a sender problem, both oil and water.  I bought new gauges and tried to install them.  But the PO's had left both oil and water temperature senders wires disconnected. 

There is a water sender in the block and one in the head...they both have two tabs, parts house employee mentioned a VDO?  The water sender is wired in parallel with 2 wires running to the gauge that were unattached.   
I tried to measure ohms across and continuity to base.  No ohms measure reading but ohm to base seem to work. I connected one wire to meter and it reads temp (120) with key off and below 0 peg with key on...just opposite of what I think it should do. I have the parts house guy  research the senders for possible replacement. 

He got back to me and said it is supposed to be a one wire oil sender and a one wire temperature sender.....75.00 oil and water to be priced (Seafarer marine in Largo Florida.

The oil sender appears to be electric.  I found a sender on the hose manifold for my external oil filter...with a black and white wire, again unconnected.  I have connected the wires to my new oil gauge, I(12v), S(Sender), G(ground). Pegs meter at max.

Before I change them...does anyone have words of wisdom?   Billy

I did not know which heading to post this under.  I want to go to Cuba for several months, between June 2016 and June 2017.  Has anyone been there or have info on which months are the best for weather...wind...rain...storms...?  I want to do the south and south western coast.  There are lots of topics to consider, but for me the first is weather.....Billy and Bev...Sta-sea-dawn

I did not know which heading to post this under.  I want to go to Cuba for several months, between June 2016 and June 2017.  Has anyone been there or have info on which months are the best for weather...wind...rain...storms...?  I want to do the south and south western coast.  There are lots of topics to consider, but for me the first is weather.....Billy and Bev...Sta-sea-dawn

hey.....I have the 10' portabote....does anyone have a saltwater trolling motor on there's. I am wondering which size 35/45/55/65 lb. thrust will work the best...I am using as a tender mostly...some snorkeling/fishing. always in calm water.
I have a 6 hp. Tahatsu (way to fast)at the moment and at 125 lbs. post open heart surgery, I am finding difficult to put on and off the ketch to the dinghy. Would a trolling motor push the dinghy as a 3 hp. outboard motor. How would ya'll rate the push of electric to comparable outboard....ie...what outboard would compare to a 4 hp outboard?


Billy aboard Sta-sea-dawn, Pearson 365 ketch

What size and pitch prop came on the W40 on the 365 ketch hull originally.  I do not know where my prop came from that is on hull 193.   I think it is a 17 in 12 pitch right hand.  Standing behind the boat, the prop turns clockwise.  The motor, standing at the helm looking at the front of the engine turns counter clockwise.
I am going to take the prop off Friday, but I had it off once before and I think it is labeled 17/12 LH.
Can that be possible.  But looking at the prop in the water from the back of the boat it turns clockwise.

Hey...I just hit a rock in Bayport Fl. and I need to repair or by a prop.  I do not have it hauled yet.  I think it is a 17/12 LH 1 1/8 3 blade.  Does that shaft size sound right for a 365 ketch with a Westerbeke 40 with a v-drive?

Hey everyone...I have been off the site for a while...I just almost sunk my 365 with the sump opened on a hard grounding. I broke several of my own rules...I had sea tow and the tide in my favor if I had waited for either.......I was on a pivotal hard rock directly under the hollow bilge sump.  I let a gung-ho big power boater put a line on the boat and ignore my instructions.  Hence, proceeded to pull me in a circle twice like a top.  By the time I got the line off the hidden damaged was done.  The tide lighted and sea-tow nudge me off easily.  I notice the auto-bilge cycling but did not pay attention.  I had to get grand kids home by dark so I rushed off after minor stowing of gear.  I returned the next day to stow sails and check dock lines.  I did not hear the pump cycling about every 10 minutes.

Three days later when the starting battery that I had the auto pump connected to died.  My shore charger was on the house bank running my refrigeration. The water in the bilge got high enough to compromise the work I was doing on the galley sink.  I had the drain that goes to the cockpit drain disconnected.  The vessel was going down by the bow.  Quickly.  The marina manager notice the changing water line and stuck a huge bilge pimp in her and restored the water line.  After frantic trip to the marina, I cranked the Perkins and motored for 2 minutes to the lift and hauled the vessel.  Finding the gash in the layers of glass on the keel.  So you can sink you boat if you do not use common sense and due diligence.

So, after repairing the keel with many layers of glass and resin, adding 2 inches of alternating cloth and fiber glass resin in the bottom of the sump and a new bottom job, in the water with a dry sump. 
I had to drain the v-drive...transmission...motor oils.

My question is what was suggested in an old thread......filling the sump and sealing it at a smaller area for the sump pumps.  What material would the members suggest using to fill the compartment..does it need to be hydralic and sand...or regular cement. Is there any thing better?......Open to suggestions......heed this and do not do what I did........billy