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Completely restored Pearson 365 Ketch
for sale. CA titled and in a slip on Harbor Island Drive, San Diego.  Perfect vessel for the Baja Haha.

I've taken on a new project so it's time to find her a new owner

To schedule a tour contact Phil Kinnison at California Yacht Sales.

https://www.californiayachtsales.com/boat/1976/pearson/365-ketch/1477/

Hi Everybody,
I commissioned a company on Shelter Island to design and install a dodger on my 365 Ketch.
A week ago I started getting phone calls from friends on the dock saying I should stop payment on the check.
I think when I said dodger they though I said tent.  Having trouble adding up everything that's seems wrong with this design.

Any feedback is welcome along with picture of other Pearson dodgers for comparison that I can share with this vendor in San Diego.

Pete, SV Tartanic

Is Lewmar the only supplier of size 60 portlights? Looking to upgrade. Thanks

Walter Machine Drive Shaft Spool Adapter: 

Fits 4 bolt U-joint snap ring style Flange Yoke , such as  a Spicer 1310 Series Flange Yoke PN 2-2-329.
Bolt hole circle diameter 3.125"
Bolt Hole Diameter .375"
Pilot Diameter 2.375 F

Fits 3 bolt Gearbox flange such as SAOD
Bolt Hole circle diameter 2.50"
Bolt hole diameter .4"
Pilot Diameter 1.75" M

Paypal me $100, free shipping
PeteW

Sorry to say all my hot linked images to this forum from Photobucket are gone. Apparently free file sharing by this company is not a sustainable business model. I will try to fix my broken posts on an as need basis by uploading those images that  I can find directly to this site. It might take awhile. But If you see a post you would like patched up feel free to let me know and I will make it priority.
Pete W.

I didn't pay much for my 1976 Pearson but I have a lot of money into it. Over the years as the restoration has progressed I have raised the replacement value accordingly with my insurance company (State farm). Recently I felt $30K was too low and raised it to $36K. My agent now wants some documentation to support a replacement value of $36K.

I'm not ready to order a marine survey.  But I am looking for alternate ideas as to what I can do establish an accurate replacement value for my boat.

Thanks for any feedback up front.

Pete     Pearson 365 Ketch

My Pearson was wrecked at sea so when I got it there was no toe railing. I replaced that with 1/4 sawn mahogany planks sawed to fit the curve of the hull. Once fitted, glued and screwed to the gunwales and the rub rail pieces installed I made the major mistake of  finishing the wood in varnish.

In my haste to get the wood on there I also failed to round over the edges with a router. The plan was to get it all fitted and finish in up in place. Not the best plan in hind sight. The problem with mahogany is that it turns blonde when exposed to the sun. That red translucent hue will fade in about 6 months of UV exposure. Patching up burnt off vanish turned to wood into a mosaic of all different colors.

So I have started the task of refinishing the mahogany and after talking to every professional shipwright I could find I determined that burying your wood in West System 105 with Special 207 hardener is the best and recommended way to go.

Getting back to raw wood with the aid of a heat gun, belt sander and a block plane was the first step. You will need to connect a shop vac to all you power tools to collect dust and chips. A cardboard box strung over the side will keep the environmental impact down to a minimum.



Raw mahogany absolutely must be stained prior to applying the epoxy basecoats and you cannot use an oil based stain. Epoxy will not soak in or stick to oil residue. So forget any product from Minwax. Finally thanks to CS Ferguson Woodworking on Shelter Island they turned me on to this product.



Its  "new school" and is an acetone based line of stains by Wood Kote that come in all colors. I chose to use light brown mahogany. Rub it in and let is flash which is immediate. I figured out that if you rub it down with a clean cloth and acetone some of the surface stain will come off and up will bring up the wood grain very nicely.

Now its time to start laying on the West System105/207. The most annoying thing about 105/207 is that if it goes off in sunlight it will bubble. The trick is to put your coats on early in the AM. 900 AM worked well. 11:00 AM did not. Sand between coats with 150. Block sanding is important to get a mirror like finish. 3 coats of 105/207 is recommended.

Sand and wash the final expoxy coat and get ready to apply the first coat of varnish. You will need to varnish because 105/207 offers little UV protection. 3 coats minimum and I sand between coats with 220. So one coat a day.



The only varnish I will use anymore is Z-spar 2015 Flagship Varnish. It offers 6 times the UV protection of other varnishes. Its quirk is that it will orange peel for no good reason unless you thin it with Z-spar 120/T-10 Brushing Thinner.  If you get any blush I let it dry for a couple days before sanding.

The photo was taken after the first coat of Flagship Varnish. I had a picture that showed what it looked like with just expoxy but the digital camera would not show the color the same way my eye did. I suspect this proves how well the Flagship filters UV light.

It's been proposed that I mount the Raymarine masthead wind
unit atop the mizzen mast instead of atop the main mast. FYI this
apparent wind sensor data on the seatalkng backbone is used
by the autopilot in wind mode.

Any opinions on this are welcome and appreciated.

Pete Pearson 365 Ketch   Hull #6

As part of my ongoing quest to make my Pearson easier to single hand I am looking at putting together the parts I need for a Main Sail Lazy Jack system.

I am thinking that 1/4" halyard would be sufficient  it with 29 series blocks. Or should I go with 3/8" halyard and blocks. Also I probably need to unclip and stow the system to the main will under sail and also to accommodate the sail cover. Or can still get the sail covers on with the Lazyjack system in place?

I have a full batten main with a loose foot that's made of high mass warp yarn Dacron. So its stiff. I think I might be able to get away with less ribs in the lazy jack system because of the full battens.

Thanks,  Pete s/v Tartanic, Pearson 365 Ketch

I've never seen any images of the wiring that is found on the port side sail locker bulkhead. After years a cleaning up the rats nest that was my Pearson 365, it has evolved into this which is actually a huge improvement over what it was.



Starting from the upper left is the bilge pump time delay relay board, the reefer solid state thermostat, house current meter, bilge pump switch panel (rear views) and a Raymarine ITC-5.  The ITC-5 puts the depth sounder transducer, knot meter, water temp, and masthead wind vane data onto the SeatalkNG backbone.  Bottom center is the Pro-split R battery bank isolator and the 150 amp Alternator fuse.  3 battery bank switches (rear view) are at the upper right along with the LNG relay switch panel.

Gone is the Pearson installed neutral buss. What remains is the bonding wire busses. One is above the water line (rigging) and the other is below the waterline bonding. This is where any single point of contact between Bonding, Isolated AC ground and DC ground is made.

Pete,   SV Tartanic

The Raymarine people march to the beat of a different drummer, specifically.. their own. While the rest of the marine electronics business has gone to the standard NMEA2000, Raymarine maintains their trademark  high level of obfuscation by conjuring up Seatalkng. NG is a hybrid interface specification that has both NMEA2000 and the older NMEA0183 (Setatalk) bundled up into the same physical interface. They also introduced a custom and rather slick way with a custom connector of integrating a complete NG backbone; ready to by populated with thousands of dollars of new spiffy color displays.

My goal was to get an NG backbone up and running so I could integrate a single i70 Multifunction display into my boat which is entirely Seatalk1 (NMEA0183) without spending thousands of dollars. My first task was to get the NMEA0183 GPS sentences bridged over to NMEA2000 without spending $400 on a new smart GPA antenna. Instead I wanted to integrate a GARMIN GPS antenna that I pickup up at a flea market. To do this I found a used Actisense NGW-1 Gateway device for $125. This device receives NMEA0183 data that come in at 4800 BPS and re-clocks that data onto the NMEA2000 bidirectional data bus at 38400 BPS all while avoiding data collisions. Unlike 0183, NMEA2000 can have many talkers and listeners.  The Actisense device also operates in both directions so it is a true gateway. To get GPS data onto the NG backbone I am only using it in one direction. Here is my test setup.

The i70 MFD has a custom display to show 6 bits a pertinent GPS related data points. You can program the i70 with up to 8 custom displays for anything that other than graphics. So its not a chartplotter.
Here's a schematic of how its wired up.

When you purchase the Actisense device you need to specify your application so it can be programmed to the correct baud rates. Mine wasn't and that required me to download a flash bootloader application that runs on a laptop along with a USB to RS422 dongle. If you're a computer nerd its pretty straight forward. But the Flash Bootloader app seemed a bit dodgy. The CRC checksum calculator bombed out and indicated a failure. But there really wasn't a problem.

The Raymarine NMEA0183 Seatalk converter outputs (output only) Raymarine NMEA0183, seatalk1 in the required 12V level transitions. So that can be sent to legacy ST60 displays.

PeteW

I'm offering my spare RV-10 V-drive to any Pearson owner that might find themselves in jam.

The Walter V drive has been rebuilt with all new bearings, u-joints, seals and gaskets. The pinion shaft assembly has been blueprinted. The tag on the housing says 1:1 but this Vdrive was re-assembled with 2:1 gears.




If you PayPal me $1000 I will ship it anywhere in the US for free. If ship your old broken V drive to me in the wooden shipping crate (about $75.00 UPS ground) I will refund $300.

Petew

After replacing all four motor mounts I set out to get the motor to v-drive alignment perfect. Trust me on this, new motor mounts and a spot on alignment eliminated all the vibration I was experiencing.  No more pots and pans rattling in the galley. I now have smooth operation at any RPM from 600 to 2600.

I devised a simple way to measure the input shaft alignment and the u-joint alignment using a dial caliper. Input shaft alignment is the amount of offset allowed on the self-aligning bearing in the V-drive that the double cardan bearing rides in. Misalignment here will not cause vibration but will shorten the life of the bearing, cause the oil seal to fail and put a groove in your shaft. Walter does not give a specification for this, they provide an alignment gage. Here's how to measure this alignment with a dial caliper.



Using the depth gage on the dial caliper I measured from the outer ring of the cap to the shaft in 4 places.
Port = .505" Starboard = .538"
Difference = .033"
Next divide .033" (the opposite side of the right triangle) by 1.80" (the adjacent side of the right triangle)
Take the inverse Tangent of .033/1.8 = .01833  to get 1.05 degrees shaft offset to Port.

The 1.8" number is the distance from the measurement point on the shaft to the pivot point in the self aligning bearing inside the Vdrive.

Next I measured:
Top = .520"   Bottom = .560" where the difference = .040"
Inverse Tangent .040"/1.80" = 1.27 degrees offset up.

Use the same trigonometry and the depth gage on the calipers to measure the U-joint alignment as follows:

On my gearbox flange I measured:
Top = 1.065"  Bottom = 1.060" Difference = .005"
Offset in degrees =  Inverse  Tangent .005"/3.5" = .0819 degrees (motor tilted up a very small amount)

On my U-joint yoke the width is 3.5" (the adjacent side of the right triangle) your will probably have a smaller number.

Rotate the shaft 90 degrees and finally Starboard = 1.055"   Port = 1.067" Difference= .012"
Motor offset in degrees to Starboard = Inverse tangent .196"/3.5" = 0.196 degrees.

Anything less than 3 degrees is within the Walter specifications. I was previously  at 2 degrees and had significant vibration in the drive train.  In this case I was shooting for zero and came pretty close. Note: You can get the inverse tangent from the calculator in any IPhone.

Pete

Someone  (Dale) said lets just go sailing. Here's  a very recent shot of my 365 Ketch flying an Asymmetrical Spinnaker. This one was borrowed and was about 1 foot and a half too big. After a comedy of errors we got it up. Wrong block on the sheet, might have looked better if we used the aft turning block.



I have to say that that full batten main (Hyde Sails) is a thing of beauty. With full batten main and mizzen she's a rocket ship. 7.5 Knt SOG in 10 knots of wind close hauled. (110% head sail)

My question is about mizzen trim up wind. Based on the tell-tales it would appear that I need a mizzen traveler to achieve proper trim on the mizzen close hauled. I've been told all sorts of stuff like, you need to line up the leech's between main and mizzen all the way to, the mizzen offers no improvement up wind. it only helps on a reach.  I'm not buying that one.  Any words of wisdom regarding mizzen trim?

Pete   

So I'm am putting together an Electric Hydraulic Autopilot drive that I can connect to the Autopilot Course Computer. So far I found a new 9" steering ram and a very questionable Octopus reversing hydraulic pump. Based on the capacity of the ram (290 cc) I'm going to need 1.2 L/min out of the pump. So I'm type 1 for sure.

I don't know much about hydraulics and I'm hung up on what to do for the bypass valve. This is the hydraulic solenoid valve that's normally open and connects to the clutch terminals on the autopilot computer.

In the open position the fluid in the ram is allowed to slosh back and forth allowing the wheel to turn freely. When energized the wheel locks up and the steering goes under control of the reversing hydraulic pump.

My options for the bypass valve are limited. There's the Raymarine 12V Solenoid Valve part# M81167 for $399.  There's the bypass manifold/solenoid that bolts to the Octopus pump. Have not found one of those yet. Then there is regular hydraulic stuff I can buy on the open market. The only OEM part I can find is called a Spool Type, 2 way, N.O. solenoid valve. (Hydraforce SV08-25) My issue with this part is it draws 1.4 amps when energized.  This valve is way bigger then I need at 6 GPM flow. And it's really blowing my power budget.

Anybody out there know hydraulics? This is a critical component for these types of autopilot systems.

Pete

Over a 5 year period people around the marina have watched me restore every system in my Pearson 365 Ketch from derelict wreck to near Bristol condition. As a consequence I get asked to provide expert advise to boat owners who come to me describing all manner of boat problems.

So why is it that when I provide an explanation that may include mathematical computations, engineering drawings and ultimately a solution... they will immediately seek out a second opinion. And why is it that this second opinion is always the hands down winner?

I have some theories and in no particular order they may include one or more of the following:
A. They paid money for the second opinion.
B. It came from some boat salesman.
C. It's the answer they wanted to hear.

Case in point: The Universal Diesel in my friends Catalina 34 would always start at the dock. But when you would go to start it hot out in the middle of the ocean it would just groan. I know I was there. Which brings me to another "why is it?" As in, why is it after all the effort of ensuring that my vessel is completely seaworthy that I get stuck crewing on boats that should never have left the dock?

Well back to this C34.  I'm suspect that I get invited to crew not because I'm a fine tactician but rather that they know they can press me into service as the onboard mechanic when their tub breaks down.

I analyzed the C34 and found that the starter battery was located some 15 feet electrically from the engine and that it was wired with AWG #2 which was by now hot and smoking. Thank God for that compression release on the Universal.

My advice was either collocate the start battery with the motor, where it belongs, and leave the #2 in place for nothing more than charging house batteries or rewire with at least 1/0 cable. I did all the math, referenced the ABYC wire chart, etc. Showed how with #2 the voltage at the starter was down around 10 volts.

In the end the guy went with the second opinion which came from a boat salesman who claimed he could solve the problem for $200 by rebuilding the starter.

Ultimately this boat owner chose what I called the panacea. Good Luck to ye, Matey.

Pete,   still restoring old hull #6

A guy gave me a 1960s British Seagull Forty Plus (3.5 hp) outboard motor before he left the marina. An extremely simple 2 stroke motor that I was told didn't run. Expecting a seized piston I rebuilt it. Best I can tell it didn't run because the points had closed up. But it looks great now all polished up, re-chromed and painted. I have about $50 tied up in it.

It's a long shaft (L) version so to use it for a dinghy motor I will have to saw it down. It's a quite simple procedure. Saw the same amount off the 3 pieces of tubing and the square drive shaft and put it back together.

Here's my questions:  Is the Seagull a worthwhile dinghy motor. I know they are loud, drip oil and gas in the water. The 40 plus has no reverse or neutral and you start it with a rope. But it is reliable they say.

Or, Should I leave it as a long shaft and sell it to someone looking for a sailboat kicker, and buy a modern 4 cycle outboard. Restored Seagulls go for at least $400.

Thanks Pete

Part of restoring my Pearson 365 was to replace a broken steering quadrant cross beam and the stops that determine maximum rudder angle stop to stop.  Currently I believe my rudder swings to an angle that is excessive. I'm pretty sure to much rudder swing is like putting on the brakes.

So I need to measure it and adjust the stops. I was told that for a Navy Destroyer they must adjust the maximum angle of the rudder to plus and minus 33 degrees to keep the ship from capsizing. Not sure if this rule applies to sailboats.

If you want to read speed over ground (SOG) course over ground (COG) and few other things on your Raymarine  ST60 Speed display, you will need to first connect the data output of a GPS receiver to the NMEA input of your Raymmarine ST4000 Autopilot. If you can get that working the Autopilot will then transfer this data over the Sea Talk interface to the ST60 display. Note that the ST60 does not have a NMEA input.

Also if you ever expect the Coast Guard to find you when you issue a DSC distress signal you will need the NMEA interface to your DSC radio to receive the current  GPS coordinates.

I was having difficulty getting the ST4000 to listen to the NMEA input. The RAY54 UHF DSC radio was OK, and my RADAR display an SL70 was getting the GPS sentences. The only solution I could get from the Westmarine Raymarine expert was to spend $3500 on a new Chart plotter and a completely new Autopilot system.

After sifting though a lot of misinformation regarding NMEA that I found on various sailnet blog sites, I solved the problem. Turns out that prior to Raymarine version 2 NMEA was RS-232 (+12 to -12V) and after that it was changed to EIA-422 (0-5V). Knowing what version you vintage equipment is does require trial and error. All that stuff about NMEA interfaces where + is talkers and -  is listeners is a bunch of hogwash. + is positive and - is ground. Its that simple.

As part of Raymarine's unending quest to ensure that every few years your perfectly good nav equipment becomes obsolete, they keep changing things to guarantee incompatibility. In the early days of GPS nothing had a GPS receiver in it. Now if you want GPS you can't get it without buying a new chart plotter or autopilot.

So here's my solution to the dilemma. I bought a Garmin OEM GPS receiver module for $39.95 from gpscity.com. And put it in a box. The module comes with an RS-232  interface. By adding a signal diode and a couple of resistors you can create  additional EIA-422 data outputs.

Here's my stand alone GPS receiver in a box.



On the off chance that anyone finds this helpful or even interesting. Here's the schematic of the interface.




Incidentally my chart plotter is a free Windows based package called SeaClearII.  I downloaded 2600  Raster scan charts from NOAA for free also.  So Raymarine can't gouge me on charts either.

Pete

I'm wondering if the Pearson will back down to port or maybe just straight back with a right handed prop installed.

My Velvet Drive transmission is symmetrical, so I have that option.

Pete