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I am going to go ahead and drop an order for new Lewmar winches in the West Marine BOGO - only a few days left.  I know, I know, inflated list price, etc - but my research is that on the BOGO, these are still a good deal.

I only bought the boat last year.  My current winches are not self tailing and for single handed or short handed, the self tailing would be super nice.  Old school cruiser, under powered by today's standards.

The boat:  Pearson 365 ketch; 100% roller furler = 308 sq ft/28.6 m^2; main: 212 sq ft/19.7m^2
Current Primary:  43 (two, of course)            Main/cabin top:  16 (one only)

I want to put two 16s on the cabin top and eventually some rope clutches.
 
?     Questions - your thoughts     ?

1- Aluminum or chromed bronze?  I'm thinking chrome bronze, but the aluminum drum is probably less $.  I was thinking chrome looks better on the old school boat, but maybe I should worry.

2- According to Lewmar's size chart, with the 100%, I sit right in the middle of winch size 40.  But, if I had (which I don't at this time) a 150% (460 sq ft), that really puts it more to a 46 size or really at the far side of their recommendation for a 40. 

Do you think it's worth the extra $ and then Ocean or EVO?  Divide price show in 1/2 for the BOGO...

Ocean 40, chrome, $1650
EVO 45, chrome, $1900
Ocean 46, chrome, $2200

Tom

(I cross posted that in Cruisers Forum.  Then after posting I added this reply to the above post:)

Having written and posted that, then thinking of my own statement, "old school cruiser"

As a cruiser - reef early... With that said, I'm really thinking the Ocean 40 size is fine for my purposes.

Can anyone dissuade me from that decision? In reality, the price diff isn't huge over the live of the winches - but I could still spend the savings on other boat candy!

[Can someone please confirm the stern tube diameter?]

Hi all,

Can someone please confirm the stern tube diameter?  What I find in the forums is 2-1/4".  I'm not at the boat and cannot get there easily before ordering.

I've got the boat on the hard.  I think it would be a good time to change to a dripless seal when I change the prop.

Any opinion or experience with a dripless type?

I'm leaning towards the Tides Marine seal:
FSK-1125-2250-0

1 1/8" x 2 1/4"  Minimum Dist. 7 1/4"

The PSS is also an option, but I think I like the no moving parts of the Tides.  The PSS does have the advantage of being more tolerant of shaft surface finish and also no risk of wearing a groove in the shaft.

 PSS Shaft Seal, 1-1/8" Shaft - 2-1/4" Stern Tube
Mfg# 02-118-214

Another option, at a slightly lower price point, is the Lasdrop.
 DrySeal Shaft Seal for 1-1/8" Shaft, 2-1/4" Stern Tube, D-118-214
Mfg# D-118-214

Thanks,
Tom

[I'm interested in anyone has experience using paint stripper to prepare an old bottom.]

Hi,

I'm getting ready to haul Typsy Gypsy.  I have a large list of tasks for a couple of weeks of hard labor.  The boat hasn't been out of the water in years, I think.  I just became the latest caretaker at the end of this June.

I'm expecting to find some blisters.  Hopefully nothing more than the gelcoat pimples that I've seen in photos from others doing the bottom on their 365.  Praying for nothing or only a little more! 

I have a lot of experience from back in the day working on the boats from the mid → late 80s that were made with the fire resistant resins that were so prone to osmosis damage.  I worked at SeaView Marine in Ballard, Washington.  I've got many hours under boats doing structural repairs, filling, fairing, sealing.  We used the full Interlux system then.

I'm planning to use Sea Hawk products, Tuff Stuff as the barrier coat (similar to Interlux 2000e but thicker.)  I have just had a great call with Tony B, technical sales for Sea Hawk in Seattle.  The plan is to apply 3 layers of Tuff Stuff to get a 12 mil or maybe thicker barrier coat.  (0.012"/0.30mm)

I'm interested in anyone has experience using paint stripper to prepare an old bottom.
 > How much stripper did you need?  1 gallon? 2 gallons? 5 gallons?
 > What brand stripper did you use?  Did you like it?

The paint stripper from Sea Hawk is MORE $$ than the bottom paint and about as much as the Tuff Stuff epoxy barrier coat! 

Can anyone recommend how much stripper I will need?

I am planning on the stripper (step 3) because like refinishing the topsides or painting a car, you have to ensure all wax and any silicone from polish is removed.  You want to remove this before sanding so you don't grind these contaminants into the existing finish.  Talking with Tony B, I want to use the stripper to the same end to ensure my barrier coat adheres properly.

The paint stripper from Sea Hawk costs as much at the Tuff Stuff epoxy and more than their bottom paint per gallon!  I want to have enough, but not buy more than needed.

My plan is:
1. Have the underbody pressure washed while in the slings
2. Manually scrape the entire bottom.  I have few new 2-1/2" Sandvic scrapers with carbide blade.  (my arms and back hurt already just thinking about this!)
3. Apply paint stripper and remove wash per instructions
4. Sand underbody with DA900/DAQ/long board with 60 or 80 grit
5. Any required structural repair with polyester resin, mat, roving, cloth as needed
6. Fair as needed with epoxy putty.  Probably make my own with epoxy & silica powder & maybe some micro-balloons (maybe no micro-balloons since they are to make sanding easier and hopefully sanding will be minimal 'cause my application is spot on!  )
7. Acetone wipe
8. 3 coats of Tuff Stuff

9. Sea Hawk Sharkskin or Tropicoat or maybe CopperCoat for bottom paint.

Thanks,
Tom