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Messages - PeteW

Chandlery / Pearson 365 Ketch, Hull #6 Listed
June 15, 2023, 11:32:07 PM
Completely restored Pearson 365 Ketch
for sale. CA titled and in a slip on Harbor Island Drive, San Diego.  Perfect vessel for the Baja Haha.

I've taken on a new project so it's time to find her a new owner

To schedule a tour contact Phil Kinnison at California Yacht Sales.
Definitely the first thing I established so the position of the boom you see is where it sits close hauled.  But I will recheck. Full batten loose foot main may set a little different than others. My plan was to see over the top when standing at the helm. Plus my mast and boom is about 2" taller than other 365s.
Thanks  for thinking of that. Pete 
Received some images from my friendly yacht broker at the marina showing an internal close up of the dodger in question. Thrilled with the huge full view polycarbonate windows all around. Pretty sure I can work with this after all.

Thanks to you all for your feedback.

Still working on old hull#6. Pete Weisskopf,
Thanks for that picture Scott. I have a better understanding of the issue with a dodger on the Ketch. The overhang from the aft portion of the roof that you get on a sloop which is usably at least 12" is just not there with the Ketch. As a result the dodger appears foreshortened. So you end up having some kind of removable flap in order to get to the base of the mizzen.

Bimini has it own problems. The design I'm working on has port and starboard section framework with a open slot in the middle. That allows you to reach up to mizzen boom and flake the mizzen sail. The slot also allows for clear view of the masthead (bonus). The two halves of the Bimini sunbrella should provide adequate shade. A flap snaps on to close the slot when you are not sailing or if its raining.

Pete Weisskopf
Hi Everybody,
I commissioned a company on Shelter Island to design and install a dodger on my 365 Ketch.
A week ago I started getting phone calls from friends on the dock saying I should stop payment on the check.
I think when I said dodger they though I said tent.  Having trouble adding up everything that's seems wrong with this design.

Any feedback is welcome along with picture of other Pearson dodgers for comparison that I can share with this vendor in San Diego.

Pete, SV Tartanic
Within limits of size and weight it becomes difficult to overpower a 365. But regarding the RV10 you can definitely over-prop. Without maintaining the 1:1 gear ratio in the gearbox and 2:1 in the RV10 input torque rating will be exceeded depending on prop size. I have a Westerbeke W58 with a 1:1 Borg Warner  and an RV10 2:1. I've gone over all the specs from Walter and it's close. I've pitched the he prop up an inch so I can cruise at a lower RPM. Pretty sure my motor is loafing along at 1800 RPM.

I've posted plenty on this repose topic which should still be out  there.
Regards Pete
Yeah I'd definitely invest in a marine quality heat exchanger. Most put it inline with the raw water from the Walter V drive. And nix those hose clamped lines. Those will not hold up under hydraulic pressure. They should be crimped hydraulic hose assemblies.
Here's something else to consider with your autopilot installation.

Rudder angle from stop to stop on the beam is something you need to measure. Typically it should be +/- 30 to 35 degrees. I'd measure it in your boat to see what it is.

Also I'm assuming you have a Type 1" linear drive. Pretty sure that model drive has 12" of stroke. Raymarine specifies that the drive needs to hit the hard stops on the beam before the drive hits it internal stops. If not it will strip gears.

That said the linear drive must produce rudder angles that exceed the hard stop rudder angles. Where you drill the hole in the tiller am becomes critical. The math for this assuming 35 degrees of rudder angle from 6" stroke is:

2Pi R 35 /360 degrees = 6". Solving for R in this example means the radius of your tiller arm should be 9.8".

Pretty sure the Edson radial wheel is 10" in diameter. Your tiller arm looks a bit long maybe 12" meaning the best you can do lock to lock is +/- 28.6 degrees. If you have done the math my apologies for butting in.
There is a bushing below the steering quadrant pushed into the wooden quadrant stop cross beam. I have pictures of it posted if you follow my link from earlier post. Here it is again.

My quadrant stop beam was rotted so I needed to make a new one. This clam shell design made installation simpler.

From a mechanical engineering point of view this bushing is where all the linear forces for a below deck autopilot drive need to be resolved. What I'm saying is the Linear Drive needs to be firmly attached to the quadrant cross beam. Attaching the drive to the bulkhead will introduce flex into the bulkhead and hull. And for the same reason the tiller arm should go below the steering quadrant.

The beam is wood. It can be drilled and metal brackets attached. I would not trust glassing anything to the hull. Its going to delaminate eventually.  Also attaching the tiller arm to the top of the rudder post will introduce an undesirable torsional force on the rudder post.

The way you can determine if your installation is solid is to engage the autopilot so that that the drive is immovable. Then pull on the wheel while you are down below. If there is play in the wheel it will become obvious when the linear drive attachment points flex in relation to the tiller arm attachment point. On my installation since the drive is oriented perpendicular to the rudder, I found I needed to add cross braces (angle aluminum) to keep the aluminum uprights  that Pearson installed, that the quadrant beam is attached, to keep from flexing. These braces goes from the quadrant beam down to the weighs built into the hull at a 45 degree angle.  I would assume that if your linear drive is oriented to be inline with the rudder (forward-aft) this side to side flexing would not occur. 

In hindsight I believe orienting the linear drive forward-aft is the desired orientation from an engineering viewpoint. This would mean accessing the drive through the aft sail locker with the primary attachment point being the wooden quadrant stop beam.
I bought my tiller arm from  Buck Algonquin. Cast bronze with the keyway cut. About $150
Navico became Simrad. I installed a Navico Autopilot motor below deck. Actually its an autopilot pump made by Octopus. Great little pump, one of the few that have an adjustment to vary the displacement.

Initially I connected the Navico motor to an Raymarine Autohelm St4000 control head. The H bridge electronics that are built into the back of the motor came in handy because it allows you to reverse the motor from a low current contact closures. The reason I used a Navico autopilot motor is because nobody knows what they are and they are cheap.

Later on I replaced the Autohelm control head with a late model Raymarine X-10 autopilot computer and P70 control head. The H-bridge was removed from the Navico autopilot motor and the DC motor wires connected directly to the Raymarine Autopilot computer.

My point is if there is nothing wrong with your wheel drive and motor maybe you should shop around for a used Autohelm/Raymarine control head if you think the Navico/Simrad Autopilot controller is defective. The St4000 has inputs for the Raymarine fluxgate compass. You will need one of them if you go this route.

Is Lewmar the only supplier of size 60 portlights? Looking to upgrade. Thanks
An advantage of the hard dodger is you can mount flexible solar panels up there.
I'm leaning toward a hard dodger.  This one is on a Pearson 36.
Built from door skin that's formed over the frame a glued up with cloth
And West Systems epoxy.
I would start by monitoring the 12VDC supply to the gauge. Clip on right at stud on the gauge. Ground the voltmeter to the engine block too.