Messages

I went to have my fuel polished when I got plugged filter and found a lot of black gunk in the filters and checking the fuel tank there was more black gunk. I built a temporary fuel system and managed to get into port.

I had a fuel polisher come and clean the fuel but he was unable to get his lines down into most of the tank as he thinks there is a blocking under the fuel inlet and was unable to get his hose into all the parts to properly clean the tank bottom. Is there something that obstructs getting a pressure line into the confines of the tank.

He recommended getting a access port in the rear of the tank to access the entire tank for future polishings.

What problems and just what is in the tank that prevens getting a hose into all the spaces of the fuel tank?

George

I found a little easier way to check the oil. I remove the ladder, take off the engine cover, open the front of the engine door. Then I can reach down to the dip stick and pull it out to check the level. To put it back in I use my fingers to guide the dip stick into the dip stick tube and push the stick back in. It's better than cleaning out the under sink cabinet to get at the dip stick. and putting all the stuff all back.

George

A diver happened to be nearby and checked out to see if anything was caught in the prop. It was clean. I pulled the vee drive out and one of the bearings was totally shot. I had Walter Machine send me a rebuild kit for $330.00 with shipping. They would have repaired it for that price but with shop time. I would have been a better route to go as a local shop is doing the work as I don't have the bearing puller or a clean place to insure not small being parts stay behind to start more distruction. I will also have them paint it. I should have it back by Thursday. I'll install it and go for shake down before heading for the Keys with a lot less weight in the wallet.

George

Well it happened, When starting to take friends out for a sail we cleared the dock and backed out into the channel when I went into forward she didn't move forward but it would go in reverse. We drifted into a convenient slip and with help got her docked. This morning I wasn't sure if it was the tranny or the Vee drive. I pulled the cover off the transmission and everything look in place with nothing loose the oil was a bit dirty so I changed that but the cover back on and disconnected the shaft to the vee drive started the engine and it seemed to run with out making the clunking sound both in forward and reverse. Those facts tell me its the Vee drive.

Having read about other rebuilding the Vee drive I'd like to know how to go about it, where to start and get parts. Do I need to remove the whole vee drive or can it be rebuilt while still mounted in the boat. We hope to be heading for the Dry Tortugas this week end or shortly there after.

You can call me with info at 801-745-4035. Since I'm short of time I might just start calling some of you for the info.

George

I have since pulled the plug on the vee drive and a messy looking grey almost liquid came out. I then flushed it with ATF oil a few times then added the 30 wt oil. I seams to run a lot better. I'll change it again after a few hrs of running to see if gets any better.

George

Just the other day while running down the Intracoastal my vee drive started to "rap" a loud rapping sound. I shifted into neutral and unfurled the jenny. The noise stopped but I need to go back in gear to keep from getting outside the channel. After about two hours of running the rapping stopped. We were able to anchor for the night and I checked the oil level in the vee drive. It looked like water had gotten into the vee drive. I added some transmission oil. The next day I restarted the engine and shifted into gear and the rapping restarted since there was not marina around we proceeded down the intracoastal, after about two hours the vee drive got quiet again. After reading recent posts about the vee drive I thought someone may have had the same problem. As soon as I get to a place to open up the vee drive and possibly make any repairs I will. I may also sent it off to Dale for his magic wand repair.

George

Garner,

I have tried once before to correct the info on my 365 Ketch "Independence" the year is a 76 not 72 as published. I'm still in St. Pete with plans to move south for the next few months after launching and having her on the hard for the last 4 1/2 years.

George

Gordon,

Thanks much for the information. while I'm on the hard I'll look to putting the 1" thru hulls in and get with Mermaid about the installation and parts. I'll put the unit in the hanging locker. It's a start.

I'm currently in ST. Pete FL. If you are near by you can contact me to exchange information.

Thanks again
George
Independence
801-745-4035
georgetmuller@gmail.com

I'm also considering installing a 16,500 Mermaid unit in Independence but I have some questions:
1. Does the vee birth location case vibration to those sleeping in it?
2. I'm have mechanical skills and am considering installing it myself or do you recommend having professionally done and what are the costs.
3. Since my boat is currently on the hard is it best to install it there or does it matter. Do in need a new thru hull?
4. I will be in Ft. Meyers area, should I have Mermaid install it for me?
4. What costs have you sailors run into putting your unit in?

Any help is appreciated
George

Rich,

I have been considering changing out my mast step for some time. I will be back aboard in October and want to have it ready to sail, however I called a company to see how long it would take to have one made but they want the mast style number etc, etc, which I don't have. Giving them the the Year (1976) Pearson 365, Ketch didn't help. Is there a standard mast step for the 365 ketch? or, do you know of the model step you put on your boat. Any information will help

George

While sailing with friends on Chesapeake Bay on their 42 ft. Catalina we were under sail and off our starboard side we noticed a 38-40 ft cabin cruiser under  full head of steam coming directly for us. We could see a kid at the helm and he wasn't making any course change. I jumped up to get his attention  but to no avail. It was getting closer and we couldn't do much under sail but get ready to jump overboard as we were going to get broadsided. Fortunately a man got to the helm and turned just in time passing to our stern by about 40-50 ft.  The gals gave him the one finger salute.

Thinking back to what I should have done is: 1. Blow the air horn (it was down in the cabin probably to late to get) so now I'll keep one at the helm.
2. turn to port to make a smaller target.
3. quickly move the crew forward out from under the dodger and cockpit cover to allow jumping clear in any direction should the power boat run over us. There were other sail boats nearby to assist if needed.

Question, What would you recommend if this happened to you?

George

Here is where the two 75 watt solar panels are located on Effie Rose, now "Independence" They are pretty much out of the way except for stern loading. A bit of bending to climb aboard via the stern ladder. I also have a Starboard ladder for those times I need it.

Looking through the list Independence must not have been built in 1972 as per all the other 365s. Checking my documentation says its built in 1975 that still conflicts with the list as other lower numbered boats are 1976 or later. So I'll have to check the HIN number when I get back aboard in November and give you an update.

I feel better that the old gal is not as old as I thought. I am, she's not.

The sea calls

George

A new helm seat for "Independence"

George

One thing that I felt was a serious safety concern was not having a second life line between the top life line and the deck so I had one added to "Independence" by having a welder make up the "U" loops and welding them on the life line post. I also had to get the rest of the equipment made/buy at a West Marine store. I feel it makes the deck much safer. Has anyone else added to the life lines to increase safety?

George