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Replacing Fuel Tank

Started by P69, February 21, 2015, 10:27:50 PM

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P69

Replacing fuel tank.

It was in bad shape, leaking, dirty, not enough pickups/returns, etc...
I removed the tank and designed a new one that will 1) maintain 50 gallons 2) have appropriate number of pickups/returns, and 3) give me about 12"+ of horizontal space between the after end of engine and the tank. Much easier to work back there now.

New tank is 29" wide and 25" long (old tank was 29" long, 24" wide). Kept the 13" height aft and 19" height  fwd, but removed the 6" flat bottom panel at fwd end.

I also designed new bunks so that no part of the tank will contact anything; therefore, no corrosion from moisture contact.
Tank will be tilted to port to create a low spot in port fwd corner. Port side will be lowered by about 1/2" to 1" so water in tank will pool in port fwd corner.

The recirc/polish pickup tube will have 3 way valve on top so I can direct flow to recirc filter or to a jug for deposition of accumulated water and crap.

Interestingly, all the 'gunk' in the bottom of the old tank was evenly distributed on the bottom; there was no accumulation of gunk at the lowest part of the tank.  Now sure what people are talking about when they speak of gunk, dirt, contamination, debris, etc... settling in the lowest part of the tank, this layer of what appears to be biological carpet was everywhere.  I know water rolls down hill, but I think the rest of the sh!t will just stay where it lands (or where it grows).

http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=16


Dale Tanski

When I pulled my fuel tank it had inches of sludge.  Not slime but sludge. Gloppy semi jelled gunk, and man did it smell when you upset it similar to rotted grass.

The paint on your hatch came out very nice.  Lots of time sanding, filling and smoothing to make it look that nice. Looks great. I used 1/2" diameter EPDM foam cord from McMaster Carr.  Unfortunately it comes in a big spool for around $50.  Bomar uses and sells 9/16" diameter gasket material and I could not find that size anywhere but the 1/2" seems to fit and work just fine. I have used it for 6 or 7 years with no problems. Stuck it on with NAPA weatherstrip adhesive in a tube. That stuff works great for lots of stuff.

Dale
Maruska
Hull #40
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

P69

Thanks for the 1/2" tip. I might try that when I rebuild the salon hatch.

P69

#3
fuel tanks  is in  (not bolted down or plumbed yet).

New supports for tank are glassed in teak ply and tank sits on aluminum angles that are bolted to the glassed-in plywood supports. No part of tank touches anything, except aluminum and 3/8" dia SS bolts, which are insulated top and bottom with washers cut from .031" teflon sheet and coated with tef-gel. Top of tank also sits out of level so water does not stand on top surface, when water gets below.

Now, there shouldn't be any corrosion caused by wood touching aluminum.

Tank is a little wider, but a little shorter to give me more elbow room between tank and engine.

See first post for pictures.